LOL! I've done cartwheels inside a tube!
I do miss surfin'! I don't miss wipeouts! LOL!
I was smart enough to come in and watched when the waves got too big.
Sunset and Pipeline............breaking on the second reef..............me no go!
Makaha and Waimea............15ft max
That's Hawaiian measurement..........from the backside of the wave to the lip................not from the trough to the lip!
Out of those beaches, Makaha was the safest. Mainly one or two big rocks and reef to worry about with bigger waves.
Sunset and Pipeline reefs will just eat ya up with the bigger waves.
Waimea Bay has a VERY nasty rip tide with even the smaller waves. When the REAL monsters come in there, it is such a sight to see. You have to be towed out to the area by jetskis and it's just plain insane to exit a wave there. I've seen it twice when the Monsters roll in. It's crazy to see a wave break all the way across the bay. Just an insane amount of power before you.
The biggest I had a good ride on was in the 18ft size. It was at Makaha and the waves were coming in at an angle for really long predictable break.
Waves can be dangerous for sure. When taking about dangerous waves in Hawaii, Sunset and Pipeline come to mind for most people, but little Makapuu has always been the most dangerous. It sees a lot of tourists and it has a crazy shore break. Lots of body and boogie surfers for that shore break, but it could either throw ya up in the air. ride the washout nicely or get slammed and rolled. It's well known back and neck injuries. I played there a couple times, just to say I've been there basically.
ppp
dcseedexchange.com
I tried when I was a kid and I just sucked at it....I had leggings on yesterday to go shopping............
.....but that was as much to do with not shaving me legs as the cold......
....me legs had mair hair than a bear..........
....
ppp
