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I can see it's gotten worse and the pattern of yellowing is more distinct since your last pictures. Where before they looked like the yellowing was pretty consistent over the whole leaf I can now that there is a pattern to it. I'm thinking maybe magnesium or zinc. I'll get someone else to come take a look at it as well. Think we need a second opinion on this one.

Have you checked your pH lately? If so, what's it reading?
 
That's definitely a Cal/mag issue muddy in my opinion. I have the same thing going on with two of mine but Calcium was locked out from ph being too low. I have started to put my nutes in around 6.5 to 6.7 and it stopped it in its tracks. I need to add dolimite lime to my promix the next time to make sure this doesn't happen again with ph dropping to low.
 
I don't see the spotting that is usually present with a cal/mag def. That's what has me thinking it just might be mag.
 
I think it's mag as well. The green veins and the yellowing between veins.
 
I think it's mag as well. The green veins and the yellowing between veins.

yup... also... what are your temps? looks like it could also be high temp exposure... also make sure ph is on point.... adjusting 3 times a day? this can cause issues sometimes too... they like it stable... a lot of swings can cause problems too... :toke:

hope this helps...
Magnesium (Mg) - Micronutrient and Mobile Element

Magnesium helps supports healthy veins while keeping a healthy leaf production and its structure. Magnesium is significant for chlorophyll-production and enzyme break downs. Magnesium which must be present in relatively large quantities for the plant to survive, but yet not to much to where it will cause the plant to show a toxicity.

Magnesium is one of the easiest deficiencies to tell… the green veins along with the yellowness of the entire surrounding leave is a dead giveaway, but sometimes that’s not always the case here. In case you have one of those where it doesn’t show the green veins, sometimes leaf tips and edges may discolour and curl upward. The growing tips can turn lime green when the deficiency progresses to the top of the plant. The edges will feel like dry and crispy and usually affects the lower leaves in younger plants, then will affect the middle to upper half when it gets older, but It can also happen on older leaves as well. The deficiency will start at the tip then will take over the entire outer left and right sides of the leaves. The inner part will be yellow and or brownish in colour, followed by leaves falling without withering. The tips can also twist and turn as well as curving upwards as if you curl your tongues.

Excessive levels of magnesium in your plants will exhibit a buildup of toxic salts that will kill the leaves and lock out other nutrients like Calcium (Ca). Mg can get locked out by having too much Calcium, Chlorine or ammonium in your soil/water.
One of the worst problems a person can have is a magnesium def caused by a ph lockout. By giving it more magnesium to cure the problem when you are thinking you are doing good, but actually you are doing more harm then good. When the plants can’t take in a nutrient because of the ph being off for that element, the plant will not absorb it but it will be in the soil… therefore causing a buildup. A buildup will be noticed by the outer parts of the plant becoming whitish and or a yellowish color. The tips and part way in on the inner leaves will die and feel like glass. Parts affected by Magnesium deficiency are: space between the veins (Interveinal) of older leaves; may begin around interior perimeter of leaf.

Problems with Magnesium being locked out by PH troubles

Light Acid Soils, soils with excessive potassium, calcium and or phosphorus

Soil

Magnesium gets locked out of soil growing at ph levels of 2.0-6.4
Magnesium is absorbed best in soil at a ph level of 6.5-9.1 . (Wouldn’t recommend having a ph of over 7.0 in soil) anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a Magnesium deficiency.

Hydro and Soil less Mediums

Magnesium gets locked out of Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 2.0-5.7
Magnesium is absorbed best in Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 5.8-9.1
(Wouldn’t recommend having a ph over 6.5 in hydro and soil less mediums.) Best range for hydro and soil less mediums is 5.0 to 6.0. Anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a Magnesium deficiency.

Solution to fixing a Magnesium deficiency
Any Chemical/Organic nutrients that have Magnesium in them will fix a Magnesium deficiency. (Only mixing at ½ strength when using chemical nutrients or it will cause nutrient burn!)
Other nutrients that have magnesium in them are: Epsom salts, which is fast absorption. Dolomite lime and or garden lime (same thing just called different) which is slow absorption. Sulfate of Potash, Magnesia which is medium absorption. Worm Castings, which is slow absorption. Crabshell which is slow absorption. Earth Juice Mircoblast, which is fast acting. (a must buy!! Has lots of 2ndary nutrients).
Now if you added to much chemical nutrients and or organics,( which is hard to burn your plants when using organics) You need to Flush the soil with plain water. You need to use 2 times as much water as the size of the pot, for example: If you have a 5 gallon pot and need to flush it, you need to use 10 gallons of water to rinse out the soil good enough to get rid of excessive nutrients.

Picture one shows a mid grade magnesium deficiency.

(Pictures courtesy of -43)


 
Holysh$t the freaking Calvary has shown up! Thanks for all the input guys!
I'm feeding in the morning so I'll update some of your questions then.
Thanks again everyone
 
Ok here's some info

31 day old Dp Abb -
Soil ph read at 7.5 DP ABB PH.jpg
Muddy suggested that this piece of shit meter is probably off by .4 - .5 (high side) so I'm guessing the soil ph is around 7
Here are some more fresh pics of this girl
DP ABB View 1 31 days.jpgDP ABB View side day 31.jpg
Believe it or not I stopped spraying her with the ammonia solution a couple days ago and started misting her twice a day with regular water and she seems to be looking less yellow.
I mixed up some nutes this morning, I haven't fed her yet, the solution is bubbling away in a bucket for now.
here's what I put in
1/2 tsp of CaMg+
1/2 tsp of molasses
1 and 1/2 tsp of FF Grow Big
all into 1 gallon of RO water
PPM - 670ish
PH - 5.5

I'll wait to feed her this until I hear from you guys

Next-
32oz Dp Abb at 16 days

I didn't take a pic of the ph meter in this one but it read at an even 7 so if Muddy is right about my ph meter being off I'm guessing it's actually around 6.5
DP ABB 32oz side 16days.jpgDP ABB top day16.jpg

Next-
Hydro
Res ph read at 6.2 today and that's where it's been holding steady so I didn't adjust. This seems to be in the acceptable range. Correct?
Res temp is at 71 and only fluctuates between 67 and 72 with lights out/on.

Tent Climate-
Humidity High is 67 and low is 30
Temp is High of 86 low of 66
The high of 86 is only for a short while. My exhaust fan is on a time of 45 min on and 15 min off. Average lights on temp is 81.

I think I covered everything.
Thanks again to all involved
:peace:
 
Helpdesk

1st photo.... looks like your flushing is workng... see he new growth in the bigger circle? and then the mag def is very visible in the older leaves in the other 2 circles with the black arrows.
DP ABB View side day 31 draw.jpg
Judging by your ph readings and your plants reactions... I'd tend to trust your soil ph meter unless you have reason to beleive otherwise...
in the next 2 pics, you can clearly see where I've circled deficiency issues... due to ph... high ph... I hav my stuff run consistently up to 7 at times (try not to but sometimes it swings as high as that, and I dont usually get this... so my guess is your meter saying 7.5 is prob pretty close.
Definetly potassium / phosphorus / magnesium type deficiencies in these 2 pics... indicating high ph... so with flushing and all you're on the right track I think mate.
DP ABB 32oz side 16days new.jpgDP ABB top day16 draw.jpg


In regards to your hydro its been a while for me... but whats your res temp staying at? thats imporant for mainting good growth, preventing ph swings, and more importantly not promoting algae and bad bacteria.
I find hydro can swing all over sometimes... but usually if you get everything dialed in right and have no "scew" factors you're good... with minor adjustments...
the plants look ok so maybe its stabilzing for you?
 
Thanks JM
Nice write up man, I really appreciate it!
The res temps are between 67 and 71 (lights out/on)
The ph has definitely stabilized and I've got three out of six now that are taking off.
The other three I'll probably pull so the others have more room in my little setup.
I'm going to retire this unit to the herb garden after this grow and get a proper hydro setup.
Thanks again
:peace:
 
Update
Everyone is looking great, yellowing is not present (or minimal) on all new growth.

Long story short
I'm going out of town for work for two weeks and my lovely lady friend will be taking care of the girls while I'm gone.
I created a schedule for feeding for her to follow but I noticed last night that my oldest girl at 33 days is starting to flower! Anyway, I had her on veg nutes still for the next two weeks to promote more growth but now she's flowering so should I switch to bloom nutes or is it ok to try and veg her for a few more weeks? Please advise, I'll be leaving town tomorrow.
I'll try and snap some pics later today.
Peace
 
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