New Grower How do you "Switch a plant into flowering"?

Heavily Medicated

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I've been reading peoples posts, and many have referanced "switching the plant into flowering". I have grown three autoflower grows, and they all seemed to just start flowering on their own at about week 4 or 5. After I see the top flower starting to form a small cola, I switch to bloom nutrients. All my grows have gone from 110 to 120 days and I have been very satisfied with the end product. The breeders listed the strains as 65 days or so, but I know practically noone gets a fully mature plant in the days listed by the breeders. I would like to shorten my grows down to about 90 days, but really don't know any way other than finding a real quick strain, but I really don't want to sacrifice quality either. I am assuming that if I could make the plants start to flower earlier, I would have a corresponding earlier maturation?? Is there something I have not figured out about making the plant flower earlier?

T5HO
ProMix Soil shook to settle but not packed
Hyponex rooting stimulant until roots come out bottom of pot
Miracle Gro nutrients veg, start at 2 weeks 1/4 strength then again week 4
Algo nutients bloom 1/2 strength once a week
3 gallon wick fed self watering pots
I let the plants go until all fan leaves are gone and sugar leaves yellow or aged (anthocyanin)

:peace:
 
Switching to Flowering nutes as soon as vertical growth stops seems to push it into finish up a little faster.
 
I second that. I have noticed with some strains they get nitrogen deficiency being switched early so if your leaves start to yellow just know its because you switched to bloom nutes.
 
Do you think the dose of veg nutrients at week 4 may delay the initiation of flowering?
 
GoAuto6 said the best bit of advice you need my friend. Wait till she stops grow tall then start flowering nutes. Can you put any photos up of your plant so we could look at it please.
 
If you haven't already, take a look at this thread: https://www.autoflower.org/f44/life-cycle-auto-flowering-cannabis-5113.html. It will give you a general overview of what to expect from your autos and when to switch to bloom nutrients.

I would suggest that you get yourself some better nutrients, ones specifically designed for growing cannabis. Pro Mix is what is called a soil less mix. It's comprised of sphagnum peat moss, perlite, dolomite lime and a wetting agent. It contains no nutrients so it's up to you to supply everything the plant needs. I grow in Pro Mix and feed my plants veg nutes from day 1. I start with 1/8 of the recommended strength and gradually increase the strength until I reach 1/2 strength, usually around week 4-5. When vertical growth stops, usually around week 6, I make the switch to flowering nutes. I give nutrients with every feeding. With proper nutrients and feeding in this manner I believe your plants will generally finish around 10 - 12 weeks, will be bigger, healthier and product larger yields. Also pick up a cal/mag supplement. Cal/mag deficiencies are common with autos so it's a good idea to have some on hand.

I would also suggest that you not wick feed them. A bi product of nutrient utilization is the creation of salts. If those salts are allowed to build up in the soil they can create problems. Top feeding with 10-15% run off will keep those salts flushed out of your soil.
 
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Thanks Muddy, I do remember readiing that post a long time ago when I was just lurking this site. I've changed nutrients with every grow so far, each time seeing a nice benefit. What nutes do you use Muddy? I like to keep things simple, and most canna nutes I've looked at require EC and PH monitoring. What is a good less expensive meter to allow me to utilize these nutes in the correct manner? I am experienceing the whole Cal/Mag thing right now. Started showing symptoms late into flowering, so I am just going to let things finish up this time.
 
Right now I'm finishing up some AN pH Perfect nutes and once they are gone, I'll be switching over to House & Garden Soil. I'm already using their products in my hydro system, so while I'll need different base nutrients for soil less, I can use the same supplements between the two. I've also used Fox Farms, General Hydroponics Flora 3 part, and General Organics Biothrive, all with good results. Unless you go with TLO soil, Total Living Organics, checking pH and EC/PPM is pretty much a way of life. I use a Hanna Combo meter which checks both pH, TDS and PPM. That's the only one I've personally used. Some here have good things to say about the Blue Labs. I also use a Control Wizard Accurate 8 soil probe to monitor the pH of my soil less mixes.
 
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