Lighting HLG Diablo QB

[pop22]

Good information! One small,error though, this setup is not 75% efficient. What LED Gardener said was they are run at 75% of their max power to stay efficent. @180 lumens per watt, they are more efficient than cobs, probably around 49-50%, which is still very good!

Bridgelux EB gen 3 strips in 4ft configuration would be the most cost effective. It would take 26-44 strips to cover a 9x5 depending on how much intensity you wanted between 30-50w psqft.

With 44 strips your best bet would be 4 sets of 480w drivers with either aluminum c channel or square tubing.

4x HLG 600H 42a drivers or 480w - can be overdriven to 502w - ~$130 each - ~$600 total

7 year warranty with Meanwell but you might consider Inventronics to save money.

96x Bridgelux EB gen 3 in 3-5000k - $15 each - ~$1440 total or 19x strips per 480w driver

You need 5 way wagos, junctions, NEMA power cables, 14g wire, aluminum for heat sinks, a way to mount the frames.

Here's a DIY guide for the previous eb generation. His configurations are at 75% efficiency compared to the had efficiency I recommended to you.

DIY LED Strip Build Designs for Samsung H-Series, F-Series, Q-Series, and Bridgelux EB Gen.2 - LED Gardener

DIY LED strip builds have become very popular recently. The mid-power section of our forum is full of threads created by DIYers looking to build their own custom lights, and new builds and ideas are surfacing every day. If you don’t live somewhere where you have easy access to premade lights...

ledgardener.com

https://www.digikey.com/catalog/en/partgroup/eb-series-slim-gen-3/91271

That's more or less your whole budget if you go with 2400w while running C02 though inventronics 600w drivers are only $100. 480w is cheaper all around and gives room to make the frame/s functional.

Not on the same scale but my EB gen 2 have done well at 480w in a 4x4 and cost less than what even Alibaba has.

View attachment 1221772

 

[pop22]

Actually, if you look at this parallel circuit as a ladder then its simple. Each light is a rung in the ladder and one side is positive and one is negative, just wire each strip between the sides!

@derek420colorado I could definitely see how that would be beneficial with all the space for natural light to pass through. My only thought is how many wires you're going to have to connect. Each individual strip has to be wired to a driver. With all the strips you'll need for that space it could get complicated just my 2 cents

 

[Death The Cultivator]

Good information! One small,error though, this setup is not 75% efficient. What LED Gardener said was they are run at 75% of their max power to stay efficent. @180 lumens per watt, they are more efficient than cobs, probably around 49-50%, which is still very good!

Thank you. I couldn't think of it earlier lol. What I suggested for his build was 50% power for max efficiency. These gen 3 hit 200 lumens per watt but they are operating at 2.8umols

@MI_sterGreen It isn't too bad as each strip has push in connectors on each side and with 480+ watt drivers the connection is split. He could build 2 or 4 fixtures with 24 strips each and wire 12 per on each leg of the driver in parallel. They can be wired in series as well.

Stranded wire with the end tinned is going to make life easy compared to using solid core

 

[MI_sterGreen]

Thank you. I couldn't think of it earlier lol. What I suggested for his build was 50% power for max efficiency. These gen 3 hit 200 lumens per watt but they are operating at 2.8umols

@MI_sterGreen It isn't too bad as each strip has push in connectors on each side and with 480+ watt drivers the connection is split. He could build 2 or 4 fixtures with 24 strips each and wire 12 per on each leg of the driver in parallel. They can be wired in series as well.

Stranded wire with the end tinned is going to make life easy compared to using solid core

Right on, good to know. I was just picturing lots of wires everywhere. Didn't think about running parallel circuit.

 

[pop22]

She's up and running! DAMN that's bright!

 

[derek420colorado]

Hey weird question. I know a lot goes into making these run at cooler temps. Is there a way to make em run warmer? I need the heat in the winter months. I know it won’t be like my 1k HPS but I am just wondering if you can actually get some useable btu’s out of them.

 

[pop22]

Sure, mount the driver (s) on the heatsink for extra heat. A 90% effcient. driver gives up 10* of energy to heat, the Diablos are about 55 - 60% efficient @ 600 watts so between the 2, you get about 300 watts of heat. Get a CO2 burner! You'll get the extra heat you need and CO2!

Hey weird question. I know a lot goes into making these run at cooler temps. Is there a way to make em run warmer? I need the heat in the winter months. I know it won’t be like my 1k HPS but I am just wondering if you can actually get some useable btu’s out of them.

 

[derek420colorado]

Sure, mount the driver (s) on the heatsink for extra heat. A 90% effcient. driver gives up 10* of energy to heat, the Diablos are about 55 - 60% efficient @ 600 watts so between the 2, you get about 300 watts of heat. Get a CO2 burner! You'll get the extra heat you need and CO2!

I’ve got one pop lol. Remember I’m in the LAG grow space and I run cO2 start to finish but it get down to -35 or so here and I neeeeeeed that heat lol

 

[Death The Cultivator]

I’ve got one pop lol. Remember I’m in the LAG grow space and I run cO2 start to finish but it get down to -35 or so here and I neeeeeeed that heat lol View attachment 1222126

You'll probably need a heater, my most inefficient builds only heat a 4x4 space to 86f in a 72f room

 

[MI_sterGreen]

She's up and running! DAMN that's bright!

View attachment 1222097

Looks like the camera had a hard time even capturing it