New Grower Hi Guys... the whole shebang!!!
- Thread starter MiNi
- Start date
Critical Cheese - Dinafem
Thursday 02/03/17 ...Water till Run off PH : 5.68 PPM : 456
View attachment 711604
Friday 03/02/17 ...Water till Run off PH : 5.70 PPM : 466
View attachment 711605
Sunday 05/02/17 ...Water till Run off PH : 5.74 PPM : 420
View attachment 711606
View attachment 711608
@Slater @Rebel @arty zan @Growtogrow @912GreenSkell .....to all my smokin and growing brothers - check out the grow and give your honest comments and advice... Cheers, Appreciate it very much
....please let me know if I should be doing something different.
all looking good dude
As the manufacturers they should know what works.
One way to know if you have an over abundance of light is the teeth (serations) on the leaves start to point up so they look like a a row of crocodile teeth or dragons teeth.
An over abundance of light leading to crocodile teeth,low humidity can also add to this.
An over abundance of light shouldn't be confused with heat stress where something called "Taco'ing" happens and the leaf folds down it center as called "canoeing".
These leaves are totally folded up from heat stress.
Light burn under LED time to move that light up! Top leaves start to yellow but it shouldn't be confused with Nitrogen Def.
I had some Light stress recently, I have build a 300W COB LED with 90 Degree Lenses and I'm driving them fairly hard (@ 2100mA) giving me 75W per COB.
I put them down to 24" and it was too much for the planys to handle and I got a little light scorch so back up they went.
Building your own lights meands you don't have a company to refer back to so it is just a learning experience by trial and error but it makes it more interesting and I am learn from it to add to my previous grow knowledge!
Swings and round a bouts, sometimes learning from the mistakes we make is the best teacher as long as you ask questions of how and why something happened.
some great info @arty zan , nice little read...
cheers... 
Thanks Everyone for all the support.. 
Good stuff to know. Thanks[emoji12] [emoji106]As the manufacturers they should know what works.
One way to know if you have an over abundance of light is the teeth (serations) on the leaves start to point up so they look like a a row of crocodile teeth or dragons teeth.
An over abundance of light leading to crocodile teeth,low humidity can also add to this.
An over abundance of light shouldn't be confused with heat stress where something called "Taco'ing" happens and the leaf folds down it center as called "canoeing".
These leaves are totally folded up from heat stress.
Light burn under LED time to move that light up! Top leaves start to yellow but it shouldn't be confused with Nitrogen Def.
I had some Light stress recently, I have build a 300W COB LED with 90 Degree Lenses and I'm driving them fairly hard (@ 2100mA) giving me 75W per COB.
I put them down to 24" and it was too much for the planys to handle and I got a little light scorch so back up they went.
Building your own lights meands you don't have a company to refer back to so it is just a learning experience by trial and error but it makes it more interesting and I am learn from it to add to my previous grow knowledge!
Swings and round a bouts, sometimes learning from the mistakes we make is the best teacher as long as you ask questions of how and why something happened.
Sent from my LGMS631 using Tapatalk
- Joined
- Sep 1, 2014
- Messages
- 13,062
- Reputation
- 5,346
- Reaction score
- 46,327
- Points
- 0
- Currently Smoking
- yo arse
Cheers bud! I like that story and it's great you stumbled on it.
I'll let you in on a secret (it's not really a secret lol) but Mitch from Mephisto transplants his at day 15-17 which is around 8-5 days before I do.
He wants those slightly bigger plants so he can get more seeds and for breeding selection but doesn't want to have monster plants that can get unruly.
He transplants for slightly different reasons but it is essentially the same process.
I got the technique from the Joint doctor as a way of keeping his Ogre strain a manageable size.
Pot sizes play a part too as does the difference in day and night temps, the biggere the difference in day and night temps the more stretch you will get.
Higher heat and higher humidity in the day will also increase stretch.
Transplanting at sex halts the initial vigorous stretch as it goes in to flower by shocking the roots, which isn't as severe as it sounds.
This means more light intensity gets to the whole plant and and the plants stay compact and don't have those long sticks in between buds.
because the plants stay short you also don't have the problem with the lower buds being shaded out and being all larfy popcorn.
There is also the fact that the taller your plant the light penetration falls of due to the inverse square law regardless if the fans are shading the lower bud sites.
You could have a 4' plant with a light 1' away from the top and even if the plant was defoliated so light could reach the bottom the intensity will have dropped to 1/16 that of the top of the plant.
So with short internodal spacing and compact plants you can maximize the light intesity the whole of the plant receives.
You can go too far though a tiny plant will only give you so much.
LED lights too near the plants can also have an effect on your plants and keep the nodes very close together, sometimes close than you need or want.
I am constantly learning from my grows on how hard to push thing and when to back off, it's part of the fun and honing my understanding and techniques.
Kahdboahd Growah.
I don't even know what I know!
Nice plants bro, I've been ready allot more forums on growing and reading others stuff and been learning allot. I made a grow journal if you want to check it out.. maybe give some feed back
https://www.autoflower.org/threads/first-time-growing-journal.58361/
https://www.autoflower.org/threads/first-time-growing-journal.58361/
G.Leave
Cultivators Club
Cheers bud! I like that story and it's great you stumbled on it.
I'll let you in on a secret (it's not really a secret lol) but Mitch from Mephisto transplants his at day 15-17 which is around 8-5 days before I do.
He wants those slightly bigger plants so he can get more seeds and for breeding selection but doesn't want to have monster plants that can get unruly.
He transplants for slightly different reasons but it is essentially the same process.
I got the technique from the Joint doctor as a way of keeping his Ogre strain a manageable size.
Pot sizes play a part too as does the difference in day and night temps, the biggere the difference in day and night temps the more stretch you will get.
Higher heat and higher humidity in the day will also increase stretch.
Transplanting at sex halts the initial vigorous stretch as it goes in to flower by shocking the roots, which isn't as severe as it sounds.
This means more light intensity gets to the whole plant and and the plants stay compact and don't have those long sticks in between buds.
because the plants stay short you also don't have the problem with the lower buds being shaded out and being all larfy popcorn.
There is also the fact that the taller your plant the light penetration falls of due to the inverse square law regardless if the fans are shading the lower bud sites.
You could have a 4' plant with a light 1' away from the top and even if the plant was defoliated so light could reach the bottom the intensity will have dropped to 1/16 that of the top of the plant.
So with short internodal spacing and compact plants you can maximize the light intesity the whole of the plant receives.
You can go too far though a tiny plant will only give you so much.
LED lights too near the plants can also have an effect on your plants and keep the nodes very close together, sometimes close than you need or want.
I am constantly learning from my grows on how hard to push thing and when to back off, it's part of the fun and honing my understanding and techniques.
Very cool arty!! Really neat that breeders are using these techniques to keep size down to a manageable level. Due to my low ceiling I added up several factors in theory to keep my plants from getting too big. IR diodes, close proximity and 24/0 light regime were all things I considered for my limited height setup. My goal was to keep plants small, but buds big. I have found that a 7"X7"X9"deep pots is a perfect fit for my needs. I ran some DIY airpots and yields were much lower(for the space not the plant), so I think i'll be sticking with an auto SoG for the remained of my indoor microgrows. I absolutely love the option of growing up to 8 strains at a time.
Similar threads
