Grow your own in the outdoor heat,maybe Australia!!

[the green bandit]

Don't stress mate, your well on your way to getting your first harvest. As weed warrior says just keep a good eye on them for any signs of deficiency or changes to their color. If you think something is wrong put a pic up in your journal and let us know. I'm sure weed warrior or hecno won't mind if you tag them in if something's up as well. Your doing great for your first time and every grow will get a lot easier, we all had teething problems and were a little unsure at first wont be long and you'll be swimming in fine herb

@Weed Warrior, so far so good with the girls but the Sour Daddy isnt as dark green as the bigger plants but appears fine, only issue is the nute tip burn on the leaves, i will be extra observant now ive added extra nutes with the powerfeed and potash. Canna specific ones as Green Bandit mentioned would be better. I am sure my 2nd grow will be easier once i get the hang of it

@the green bandit , I will be using bioblizz next round for sure and maybe the same potting mix, and for seedlings i found a biogradeable pots at bunnings. I can always use the power feed on other plants in the garden, gave the tomatos some this morning.

 

[smokeyfromau]

@the green bandit, thanks mate. yes i must not stress too much, as things are good so far with the girls. I will keep a close eye on them, and will let you weed warrior and hecno know if any problems. I hope to fit another grow in before winter and try a few new strains of autos.

only issue with me is the wasp that made a hole in the soil, get it next time plugged its hole with bark

 

[the green bandit]

This guide will be very useful for you if you're looking for a couple new strains to try, give it a read before you spend your hard earned on more beans!http://autoflower.net/forums/threads/choosing-auto-seeds-part-2-the-outdoor-auto-edition.69414

 

[Waira]

:smoking: check this out and see if clears things up:



Understanding the Fertilizer Label

All fertilizer labels have three bold numbers. The first number is the amount of nitrogen (N), the second number is the amount of phosphate (P2O5) and the third number is the amount of potash (K2O). These three numbers represent the primary nutrients (nitrogen(N) - phosphorus(P) - potassium(K)).
This label, known as the fertilizer grade, is a national standard.

A bag of 10-10-10 fertilizer contains 10 percent nitrogen, 10 percent phosphate and 10 percent potash. *( whatever the actual total weight)

Fertilizer grades are made by mixing two or more nutrient sources together to form a blend, that is why they are called "mixed fertilizers." Blends contain particles of more than one color. Manufacturers produce different grades for the many types of plants.
You can also get fertilizers that contain only one of each of the primary nutrients. Nitrogen sources include ammonium nitrate (33.5-0-0), urea nitrogen (46-0-0), sodium nitrate (16-0-0) and liquid nitrogen (30-0-0). Phosphorus is provided as 0-46-0 and potash as 0-0-60 or 0-0-50.


Calculating Nutrient Content
To calculate the pounds of nitrogen in a 50-lb bag of 10-10-10 fertilizer, multiply 50 by 0.10. *( this is converting 10% into a decimal equivalent for calculations, so 50 x 0.1 = 5 ... 5 is 10% of 50)
Do the same for calculating the amounts of phosphate and potash. A 50-lb bag of 10-10-10 contains a total of 15 lbs of nutrients: 5 lbs nitrogen, 5 lbs phosphate and 5 lbs potash. The remaining weight is filler, usually sand or granular limestone.
Another example:

1. 
   50-lb. bag of 8-0-24 fertilizer
   
2. To calculate the pounds of nitrogen: Multiply 50 by .08, which equals 4.
3. To calculate the pounds of phosphate: There is no phosphate in this bag of fertilizer.
4. To calculate the pounds of potash: Multiply 50 by .24, which equals 12.
   A 50 pound bag of 8-0-24 fertilizer contains a total of 16 lbs of nutrients: 4 lbs nitrogen, 0 lbs phosphate, and 12 lbs potash. This would leave us with 34 lbs of filler.
   
   
   ... ratio is another matter, which is about how many parts of this, to how many parts of that, to how many parts to the other: 10-10-10, 22-22-22, 7-7-7, all even ratio's across the board....
   -- something that's say, 5-15-30 is (5 divided into each =) 1 to 3 to 6 ratio, or 1:3:6 ... So for a practical example, cutting this into a half dosage is reducing the total amount going in, but the ratio is still the same,.... make sense?
   

 

[the green bandit]

Thanks mate, I'm as thick as two bricks sometimes this is something my tiny mind can understand

:smoking: check this out and see if clears things up:



Understanding the Fertilizer Label

All fertilizer labels have three bold numbers. The first number is the amount of nitrogen (N), the second number is the amount of phosphate (P2O5) and the third number is the amount of potash (K2O). These three numbers represent the primary nutrients (nitrogen(N) - phosphorus(P) - potassium(K)).
This label, known as the fertilizer grade, is a national standard.

A bag of 10-10-10 fertilizer contains 10 percent nitrogen, 10 percent phosphate and 10 percent potash. *( whatever the actual total weight)

Fertilizer grades are made by mixing two or more nutrient sources together to form a blend, that is why they are called "mixed fertilizers." Blends contain particles of more than one color. Manufacturers produce different grades for the many types of plants.
You can also get fertilizers that contain only one of each of the primary nutrients. Nitrogen sources include ammonium nitrate (33.5-0-0), urea nitrogen (46-0-0), sodium nitrate (16-0-0) and liquid nitrogen (30-0-0). Phosphorus is provided as 0-46-0 and potash as 0-0-60 or 0-0-50.


Calculating Nutrient Content
To calculate the pounds of nitrogen in a 50-lb bag of 10-10-10 fertilizer, multiply 50 by 0.10. *( this is converting 10% into a decimal equivalent for calculations, so 50 x 0.1 = 5 ... 5 is 10% of 50)
Do the same for calculating the amounts of phosphate and potash. A 50-lb bag of 10-10-10 contains a total of 15 lbs of nutrients: 5 lbs nitrogen, 5 lbs phosphate and 5 lbs potash. The remaining weight is filler, usually sand or granular limestone.
Another example:

1. 
   50-lb. bag of 8-0-24 fertilizer
   
2. To calculate the pounds of nitrogen: Multiply 50 by .08, which equals 4.
3. To calculate the pounds of phosphate: There is no phosphate in this bag of fertilizer.
4. To calculate the pounds of potash: Multiply 50 by .24, which equals 12.
   A 50 pound bag of 8-0-24 fertilizer contains a total of 16 lbs of nutrients: 4 lbs nitrogen, 0 lbs phosphate, and 12 lbs potash. This would leave us with 34 lbs of filler.
   
   
   ... ratio is another matter, which is about how many parts of this, to how many parts of that, to how many parts to the other: 10-10-10, 22-22-22, 7-7-7, all even ratio's across the board....
   -- something that's say, 5-15-30 is (5 divided into each =) 1 to 3 to 6 ratio, or 1:3:6 ... So for a practical example, cutting this into a half dosage is reducing the total amount going in, but the ratio is still the same,.... make sense?

 

[DTOM420]

@the green bandit Do you think that starting a photo plant early in the long growing season so that, hopefully, it’s a tree by the time things really heat up, can help it get through the heat and ultimately produce a big yield of quality buds? Of course there’s lots of other variables involved but I did notice last summer that the intense heat had a negative effect on lots of young plants. Especially when it was around 38°C+ I began using a T5 fixture for starting seedlings indoors and that definitely helped. It got me wondering, though, if that same strategy couldn’t be expanded upon by starting in the cooler spring weather so that the plants were large and fully mature before acclimating to the extreme weather. I’d be curious to here your, and everyone’s, thoughts on this?

 

[the green bandit]

To be honest I have only ever grown the 1 photo plant...but I would definitely start early indoors if you can! I would definitely think it's possible to get some great plants in the heat if done right. My best plants to date have been grown in some terrible heat 40c and above. What are your daylight hours on the longest day? I have struggled to understand how to start photo plants for my lighting hrs but Waira has been kind enough to give me some advice on this! I will see if I can copy paste his way of getting his plants acclimatized for my lighting hrs so they don't go straight into flower. In my opinion larger plants tolerate the heat a lot better than young seedlings, if I can I like to give at least 3 weeks indoors avoiding the exposure to the hot in their early life. You will have to introduce them to the heat slowly to avoid unnecessary stress on them. I currently put my seedling box in the bedroom(only ac room) of a daytime to reduce excess heat stress. If I wanted to grow big photos I would be starting them around September indoors I think(opposite hemispheres)

@the green bandit Do you think that starting a photo plant early in the long growing season so that, hopefully, it’s a tree by the time things really heat up, can help it get through the heat and ultimately produce a big yield of quality buds? Of course there’s lots of other variables involved but I did notice last summer that the intense heat had a negative effect on lots of young plants. Especially when it was around 38°C+ I began using a T5 fixture for starting seedlings indoors and that definitely helped. It got me wondering, though, if that same strategy couldn’t be expanded upon by starting in the cooler spring weather so that the plants were large and fully mature before acclimating to the extreme weather. I’d be curious to here your, and everyone’s, thoughts on this?

 

[the green bandit]

I start them in smaller pots first, last time they were about 3L, I've done up to 1gal... single transplant.... They go into the tent (before I had it, they were outside, screened, then into supp' lighting as needed), for the first week or so they get extra light, no more than 16-18 hours-ish if they hang with the auto's (outside at this time it's about 13),... then after that, I start to back off light hours until it's normalized,over s few days or so,.. then they go outside full time.... the key is to get them at or near the current diurnal sched' before they are too old and may get triggered into bloom by that drop in hours,.. many breeders make specific note to not run them more that 18 initially regardless because of this... Some are more easily triggered than others, and a sudden drop from 18 to say, 14-15 may be enough to trigger unwanted blooming!

@DTOM420 I hope this helps...I have around 14hrs daylight on my longest day

 

[Weed Warrior]

@the green bandit Do you think that starting a photo plant early in the long growing season so that, hopefully, it’s a tree by the time things really heat up, can help it get through the heat and ultimately produce a big yield of quality buds? Of course there’s lots of other variables involved but I did notice last summer that the intense heat had a negative effect on lots of young plants. Especially when it was around 38°C+ I began using a T5 fixture for starting seedlings indoors and that definitely helped. It got me wondering, though, if that same strategy couldn’t be expanded upon by starting in the cooler spring weather so that the plants were large and fully mature before acclimating to the extreme weather. I’d be curious to here your, and everyone’s, thoughts on this?

You are on the right train of thought for photoperiod plants. Strain choice will be critical for enough vegetative growth in short daylight hours, and utilizing indoor starts and the increasing natural light regime. I know i would be trying long running tropical based sativas..

 

[DTOM420]

To be honest I have only ever grown the 1 photo plant...but I would definitely start early indoors if you can! I would definitely think it's possible to get some great plants in the heat if done right. My best plants to date have been grown in some terrible heat 40c and above. What are your daylight hours on the longest day? I have struggled to understand how to start photo plants for my lighting hrs but Waira has been kind enough to give me some advice on this! I will see if I can copy paste his way of getting his plants acclimatized for my lighting hrs so they don't go straight into flower. In my opinion larger plants tolerate the heat a lot better than young seedlings, if I can I like to give at least 3 weeks indoors avoiding the exposure to the hot in their early life. You will have to introduce them to the heat slowly to avoid unnecessary stress on them. I currently put my seedling box in the bedroom(only ac room) of a daytime to reduce excess heat stress. If I wanted to grow big photos I would be starting them around September indoors I think(opposite hemispheres)

I didn’t realize you are only growing autos. My stupid arse must have missed that part lol! Oops! I’m going to be running autos as well but I’m also wanting to see what I can do with long growing photos as a final reward to the long, long, LONG summer here. Lol! Your September equates to our March, I believe? My guess is your September is when the last chance of frosts end and lighting begins to exceed 12 hours with a daily INCREASE in length of daylight hours?

I was thinking that I could start the photos outdoors or put them out at 2-3 weeks of 16/8 without much effect. Wouldn’t a photo seed started outdoors sense the increasing length of day and remain in veg growth? Seems like nature would take care of that as it would occur in nature. Now, I could see a plant started indoors under excessive light then being being put outside having some confusion; but I would have thought they would acclimate and continue veg once they realized that the days were increasing in length?

This is an interesting topic that I thought about but have obviously not thought ENOUGH about! I really appreciate the insight. I apologize for bringing up a photo-related topic in your Auto thread. I thought it was a general hot climate growing thread. I can post this topic in a separate thread if you prefer - so as not to clutter your very useful and important thread? Just say the word, mate. <— I love when I get to use that word.

@DTOM420 I hope this helps...I have around 14hrs daylight on my longest day

Sounds like identical lighting to us. Our longest day is 13 hours and 59 minutes. Yes, that Waira post is very useful! Thanks for pasting it!

You are on the right train of thought for photoperiod plants. Strain choice will be critical for enough vegetative growth in short daylight hours, and utilizing indoor starts and the increasing natural light regime. I know i would be trying long running tropical based sativas..

Yikes, I didn’t put much thought along those lines into the beans I bought. Ugh! Lol! I may have purchased more photo beans than I planned to grow indoors in 8 years. Haha! Figures. :/ I was planning to go on a Skittlez kick. Here’s what I WAS planning to try:

DP Lemon Zkittle
Barney’s Farm Gorilla Zkittlez
DP Durban Poison (still a good idea)
Sweet Gorilla Girl (still maybe a good choice)
Sweet Green Poison
Ministry of Cannabis Big Bud XXL
Seedsman Jack Herer (Still a good choice)