Lighting Grow Northern Live Tech Talk

Hi guys :) Im using your HS1 version 1 from first days it has born and am very happy with it's light output and quality, which is the main thing i want from it. After some usage and Synjet failure (BTW thank for the fix, i am very glad that i paid money for good product with good support service) i have made some decisions and mechanical changes to my unit. I do understand, that warranty is far gone because of that, but i believe that LED module and driver are highest quality possible and not fail soon, especially after what i did. There is only one thing, which i want to talk about - it is cooling. So i will try to explain my thoughts clearly, so you could understand what i got to say.
I do understand, that Synjet is quality product and you have chosen them after many research. Also i do understand, that it's bug and failure was a simple wiring mistake. I have used it whole cycle with my plant and i after it's failure a have closed it's work more closely. Took top lid away completely (it was v1, without holes). Noticed, that radiator is constantly hot, noticed that Synjet is is always running at full capacity. I do not have IR thermometer, so i can not provide exact temperature of it, but it was way hotter than body temps and this gave me food for thoughts. I took a look to Lumiled tech data and info from various sources - Philips, DIY info i found on the net, etc. Found interesting moment - most efficient light output (for any LED, Lumiled also) is when LEDs are driven only in partial power. Less is load - more is PAR output. This applies also to temps, lest temps - higher PAR output, longer lifetime and much less heat. So, i decided to bring HS1 apart and put it's LED module on big radiator and cool it this way. Bought 190/150/50mm radiator and used it for cooling, used your original carbon cooling plate between module and radiator - this is another super good thing in HS1. Tried to run it completely without fan - it is still way colder than original HS1 radiator with Synjet, and it is logical, as new radiator is bigger 4 times. But afer that i have decided, that cooler for sure will be great, just for moving air thru radiator, to make it even cooler. I have used 20cm PC cooled on max 50% of its power and now my lights are just barely warm, like body temperature. Also now there is NO sound absolutely from my lights, large constant power cooler on slow RPMs eliminated noise completely and gave super good cooling.
So, here is all this info in one conclusion and maybe even offer to you to think about. How about design of new lights, which would be based on same quality LED module, driver and optics, but instead of small radiator and Synjet, it would have huge radiator, which would be used not in nearly full capacity, but in fraction of it, like 20-30%, and totally noiseless huge 20 cm fans, which would run for a very long time too, but make things even cooler. You could use your pro skills to build such a unit, it would also be compact (same size as HS1, if it would be with same 75W module), and for the same cost of Synjets (i have found these also). Then you would offer growers really high end (i say so, because high end always uses huge radiators :D ) lights, which would work virtually forever. They would change LED module in few years and that's it. This would bring you loyal clients and i am sure, truly legendary name in this business. I even would participate in such item designing with great pleasure just for fun. Surely, such apparatus would be heavier, but thing is, all high - end is heavy, that is the way it is :D I think this really would not me a problem.
You see, i am familiar with electronics for more than 25 years already, have build acoustic amps and scene equipment, many years worked with pro lighting equipment and know something about things like these. Please do not take my thoughts as any kind of insult or spamming, just wanted to share my thoughts and maybe, only maybe help you decide some changes in your future models.
Thanks again for great work you have done as small company. This is really big work to organize and make highest quality equipment. And i cannot imagine, what were the investments to all this. GN rules :D
 
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So, i decided to bring HS1 apart and put it's LED module on big radiator

I like your thinking, keep the LED's efficient by keeping them cool to get the best out of the LED technology.
Can you share a photo of your modification?

Here is a $12.08 and fairly good Infrared Thermometer
https://www.fasttech.com/products/1214001
 
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Thanks for posting this...... The 2 HS1.1 I have is also running very hot, so hot that I hastily withdraw my hand if it gets in the air stream, and they are certainly audible. Guess I'll go digging for the laser thermometer that has dug itself in somewhere in my shed.

So hotter = less efficient....... Perhaps that explains why I'm somewhat underwhelmed by my very unscientific comparison grow between the 2 HS1.1 and 2 Marshydro Style Lights(MHS)with 5W diodes. Or perhaps it is the warped diffusers that is warping the state of affairs, which is tilting heavily in favor of the MHS when it comes to growth and penetration, although of course not in power consumption, but given the results so far, I'm starting to think there is something not right with the 2 HS1.1. The purchase cost per W is £5 for the HS1.1 and less than £0.25 for MHS......
 
Here it is. Also i have added additional LEDs for flowering (warm and cold whites, skyblue and blue, red/orange). HS1 is acting now as my base light. Total power of this setup is now 152w, DIY part is running at 2 chains from single 77W source.
All this thing barely warms up, difference between temps outside box and in box is only 2.5'C when using 152W lights and extraction fan on only 30-40% via variac and charcoal filer. Sounds fantastic, but it is what it is. Hoping that GN guys will not get mad because of what i did to HS1...
led1.jpg led2.jpg led4.jpg led5.jpg led6.jpg
Planning to move to bigger box soon, so will remake my lights again. Dreaming about additional diffusers and optics like on HS1 :D
 
Here it is.

Thanks so much for sharing, a picture is worth a thousand explanations.
That is a serious heat sink!
Now I see what you mean about big slow fans for quiet and long life. I bet it could run for years on just one of those fans.

You said you are familiar with electronics, what did you do about ground? My HS1 electrical plug did not come with a ground pin, did yours? Electricity and wet environments with make me nervous. There were two pins and an empty hole where the ground pin should be.
 
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Same type of fan i'm using for air input to my grow box. It runs for more than 2 years 24/7 already on approx 50% of it's speed and it runs like new. Disassembled ir recently, cleaned dust from it and did put it back. Really amazing fans. Also such big DC fans are running totally quietly, which for me is important, as i sleep at 2m. from my grow box. Now hat lights are silent and extraction fan is run silent too due to it's partial load - only thing i hear is bubbles in DWC at night. Air pump is totally muffled too.
 
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Frigging amazing marimar.... Do you give evening classes in how to do this and where to get the bits and bob's?

:slap:
 
Corgy, bro, if you have any questions - just ask. But please, do your research before that and after that. I may not always be right!
HubbaBubba bro, yes it is grounded, as any other equipment in my box. Had good lesson long time ago with this, burned 5kW stage amp in beginning of my friendship with stage technics :D
 
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HubbaBubba bro, yes it is grounded, as any other equipment in my box. Had good lesson long time ago with this, burned 5kW stage amp in beginning of my friendship with stage technics :D

Did you have to add a ground pin to the HS1 plug that goes in the wall? Or was it already a 3 pin?
My Euro power cable came as a 2 pin but the ground wire is already inside the cable and electrically connected to the HS1.
 
Actually i did plug HS1 with my own cable from the begining. I have negative ground cable attached to my box, and from there i'm attaching cables to every metal part i want to be grounded. So it was attached straight to HS1s casing. Now it is attached to all that aluminum construction. Also all high voltage parts are removed from the box, for saving space and for safety reasons, they are attached to the back of my gro wbox, just under air extraction hole, so that air fromthe box is constantly blowing on LED drivers and 12V power supply driver. I like to make things this way, that one function is doing as much work as possible. There are only DC cords in the box attached to LEDs and fans. No AC at all. No chances water will get on any parts of high voltage.
 
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