Lighting Grow Northern Live Tech Talk

Hi MikeyB,

Sorry I missed this before (its @GrowNorthern for future ref) I will have to get back to you regarding the 60x60 diffusers I don't have an exact date on this at the moment.

Regarding our control solution we have been developing for sometime for the Holographic series; originally we developed a USB bridge which needed to be connected to a computer and allowed maximum functionality of the HS1's digital features. Along with basic dimming control it could recall temperature, permanently adjust the output of the synjet and LED module it could also program sequences such as Constant light output (this increases current of 50,000 hours to maintain the same output) and full grow cycle light on/off sequences. These would be saved to the driver memory so once disconnected from the bridge the driver would remember the settings. However this ended being a really high cost solution and did not allow you to run any sequences or turn the lights on/off in realtime without it being connected to a PC.

Our new solution is much more cost effective, it can be controlled by bluetooth and NFC from any smart phone with the app. It has reduced functionality but can remote turn on/off, dim and sequence full light schedules individually or in scenes for 32 units on one single bus in realtime. One single bus means all the units are linked up in a singular parallel DC circuit but DALI's digital addressing allows individual control of a single or group of units through one control. This is physically wired up the exact same way as the power with Wago T pieces and 2 pole link cables going from one unit to the next and the control box sits at the front of the circuit/chain.

We are going to release some more information about products we have in the pipeline for 2016 very soon.

If you wanted to have mess around with a Raspberry PI, all basic DALI protocol is available opensource. You would however need a bus supply and you may find it easier to work with the an external bridge from the PI for the DALI signal.

Here is a link to the development board we originally started with, it works well the HS1
http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/1679497.pdf
and a link to the bus supply we are currently using in the Bluetooth/App based soultion
http://www.mouser.co.uk/m_new/power/power-supplies/recom-RELV4-16-power-supply/n-axgi2Z2d178c

Hope that helps!

:data:

:GNTest:
Nom, nom and Nom!

Peace and Tech..................like to mess around with PI!

MikeyB
 
Hi there,

today just came back from work and my HS1 is down.
not doing anything,...
What do I do now?

I'm electrician so I can do repair myself if possible to do so...

but what makes me worries is that I need that light ( well my baby need it really NOW ).

cheers Brett
 
Hi there,

today just came back from work and my HS1 is down.
not doing anything,...
What do I do now?

I'm electrician so I can do repair myself if possible to do so...

but what makes me worries is that I need that light ( well my baby need it really NOW ).

cheers Brett

You need to email them directly bro not sure they check here every day. Daft question but have you checked the fuse?
 
I've not but I've just done it and fuse is alrite.
Luckily when plugged all back in it works.
Probably overheat so it switched off?
Not sure but works so sorted ;)
 
I've not but I've just done it and fuse is alrite.
Luckily when plugged all back in it works.
Probably overheat so it switched off?
Not sure but works so sorted ;)

Sounds to me like some kind of contact issue with cords at some part of the chain. Happy to hear the unit works now!
 
Unfortunately yesterday found out that there is some serious problem with my light as it flickering...
 
Hi huys.
Just one question: will you go further with HS1 type lights (made of different "colored" LED's), or will you go with white Cree's? That is trending now, but i still believe in "colored" option more that white LEDs alone. I do not know if im right, but i would like to know your oppinion on that. if it's not a commercial secret before release ;)
 
Great question @HolyTHC. There is a little discussion about this in another thread https://www.autoflower.org/threads/out-of-stock.49674/page-4 to have a look at. CREE have the best white lighting solutions available right now due to their high performance royal blue chips, remote phosphor patents and manufacturing techniques. Many of the smaller companies in the industry have started producing full white LED grow lights because of:
  • the improvements in white LED's
  • simplicity of the bill of material
  • the fact it produces a working light which makes it easier to inspect the plants
  • there is a range of larger power density emitters which provide a lower cost per watt solution

From our research, producing an LED grow light with just generic white LED's provides similar yields to that of most good quality HPS. High quality deep red LED like the CREE XPE or Lumileds Rebel which can produce light between 650-660nm at over 40%+ efficiency will have a much higher quantum yield per photon, less reflection and is what drives 80%+ of the growth/photosynthesis seen under any GN fixture we have produced so far. Monochromatic emitters like deep red are the only ones that can offer energy/yield efficiency advantages of HPS and until new developments in phosphors, blue chips or the stability of quantum dots our lights will most probably include high ratio of quality 650-660nm LED's.

Now that said the important question we faced when designing the HS1 and the new lights for 2016 was whether to use blue or white supplementary LED's. From testing 460nm royal blue LED's produce the most desired results when observing a plants bio physical and bio chemical reactions to light like phototropism or the optimization of Chlorophyll A absorption by increased absorption at Chlorophyll B. Apart from those functions Royal blue really contributes very little to the growth of the plant where a white light spectrum can drive growth and photon absorption at Chlorophyll A and B. However regardless of the white LED's spectrum the efficiency of the emitter can never be as efficient as the Royal Blue LED chip alone due to the remote phosphor. So in short if we choose Royal blue we could use a lower ratio of them and a higher ration of deep red and this would be the most efficient for photosynthesis. Alternatively you can use a slightly higher ratio of white LED's in combination with a proportionally lower number of deep red. Both methods will grow plants at very similar rate per watt with the Deep red/ royal blue being the most efficient.

The big factor for GN using more white LED's over Royal blue is the so that the user has the ability to safely inspect and work in the same area when he lights are turned on with out damaging their eyes. For this we look at the international electronic community standard IEC62471 and the reports companies like CREE produce http://www.cree.com/~/media/Files/C...p/XLamp Application Notes/XLamp_EyeSafety.pdf. These show that shorter higher energy wavelengths like royal blue are the highest risk for eye safety. This is why on the Hs1 we decided to go with a Deep red/far red/ royal blue/ white spectrum substituting some deep red and and most of the blue LED's for white LED's. On the new systems we will be going with Deep red/Far Red/White. The white LEDs have a custom binning but still the overall spectrum is not the most efficient we could build but it is the safest and easiest to work with. That said the new lights are still using the best quality LED's and new optical technology unique to GN. I think there will be very few products on the market in the next few years that will come close to them efficiency wise.
 
Is there just one light available? Where are the specs on it? Fancy features but it's not the features that makes the plants grow. What makes it grow seems to be left out.
 
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