Indoor Frank does it again….

[wangotango321]

Hi Frank.Wonder if you leave your nute mix sit out overnight to fully dissolve? I recently read an article that said P K in powdered form take a long time to dissolve.This would explain why i always see sediment at the bottom of the bucket after I mix,I guess.Thanks.

 

[Frankthetank]

Hi Frank.Wonder if you leave your nute mix sit out overnight to fully dissolve? I recently read an article that said P K in powdered form take a long time to dissolve.This would explain why i always see sediment at the bottom of the bucket after I mix,I guess.Thanks.

 

[BII]

I regularly see undissolved material using MegaCrop 2-part base nute and other powders. I just make sure to mix well when feeding, distributing any undissolved material evenly. Much like the minerals in soil I presume any commercial nutrient sediment (that started out soluble) will dissolve or leach out sooner or later, and if some doesn't it's just a trivial amount.

I grow in coco/perlite in fabric bags, but I can fully understand those having plumbing, tubing, valves, using drippers, AutoPots, etc., not wanting any sediment at all.

 

[Frankthetank]

I regularly see undissolved material using MegaCrop 2-part base nute and other powders. I just make sure to mix well when feeding, distributing any undissolved material evenly. Much like the minerals in soil I presume any commercial nutrient sediment (that started out soluble) will dissolve or leach out sooner or later, and if some doesn't it's just a trivial amount.

Yup, pretty much my thoughts as well

 

[Bob's Auto's]

I regularly see undissolved material using MegaCrop 2-part base nute and other powders. I just make sure to mix well when feeding, distributing any undissolved material evenly. Much like the minerals in soil I presume any commercial nutrient sediment (that started out soluble) will dissolve or leach out sooner or later, and if some doesn't it's just a trivial amount.

I grow in coco/perlite in fabric bags, but I can fully understand those having plumbing, tubing, valves, using drippers, AutoPots, etc., not wanting any sediment at all.

You could add a small aquarium pump inside the nutrient tank. Usually they come with suction cups so you can stick it to the wall of the tank. Let it run for on a timer, One hour on, one hour off. This keeps everything soluble.
Another thing could be the case and that's the nutrients precipitated from the solution. It all has to do how you mix up your nutrients. ie, Sulfates and will react to calcium and form calcinate, which will always drop to the bottom as the don't dissolve into water anymore

 

[BII]

You could add a small aquarium pump inside the nutrient tank. Usually they come with suction cups so you can stick it to the wall of the tank. Let it run for on a timer, One hour on, one hour off. This keeps everything soluble.
Another thing could be the case and that's the nutrients precipitated from the solution. It all has to do how you mix up your nutrients. ie, Sulfates and will react to calcium and form calcinate, which will always drop to the bottom as the don't dissolve into water anymore

As I noted, I am unconcerned about nutrient sediment/non-dilution; see no need for additional equipment (reservoir, air pump, etc.). Anything undissolved initially can dissolve/leach-out (or not) on its own in the media. I mix up nutes as needed, feed drain to waste and don't do much with mixing other than following a prudent order of adding each.

Just trying to make the point that many growers' fixation on not having any nutrient sediment at all visible is not really much of a concern, unless there is plumbing, tubing, valves, etc. involved (presuming the order of adding and other basic aspects of the mixing of the specific nutrients being used are done correctly). As you noted, even with constant mixing, there will unavoidably be some cross-reactions among nutrients forming insoluble precipitates.

 

[Frankthetank]

Just trying to make the point that many growers' fixation on not having any nutrient sediment at all visible is not really much of a concern, unless there is plumbing, tubing, valves, etc

 

[Waira]

Haha Happy Spring my friend

Yep…. They don’t like cold feet, especially when young. Kind of a bummer, but it does allow me to get the perpetual rotation in swing…. Once these Sawneys are around 25 days old I’ll stick em in the big tent and start two more (probably more Sawney beans, but different strains)… and so on. Just gotta go with the flow sometimes, know what I mean.?!?

One of the mini space heaters is what I use. Heat mats may not have the oomph to keep a pot of such volume warm enough over most of the volume?
Bugger on the wonky dimmer Frank, I'd still bark about it to them! On/off functioning sure smacks of a basic loose connection, an easy fix maybe?
Of course any such tinkering will void the warranty, so catch-22 there...

 

[Frankthetank]

One of the mini space heaters is what I use. Heat mats may not have the oomph to keep a pot of such volume warm enough over most of the volume?
Bugger on the wonky dimmer Frank, I'd still bark about it to them! On/off functioning sure smacks of a basic loose connection, an easy fix maybe?
Of course any such tinkering will void the warranty, so catch-22 there...

Just putting the thick insulation under the pots and reconfiguring the intake was enough to get up into the mid to high 70’s pretty reliably… and that’s with the light in there on 25%. As they get older and the light increases, it’s easy to regulate with exhaust fan.

Yeah, at this point, if I did get them to fix the dimmer, I’d just run the way I am, anyway Can you tell how far I’ll go to avoid dealing with customer service people?

 

[Waira]

-- it's pain vs. gain game, inn'it!?

Insulation, yeah, I have to put my tent outside and I use that foiled bubble wrap stuff for water heaters as a base under the tent...
I just asked BC about how well her heat mats work on pots of that volume...