M
MrBonez
Guest
DAMN!!!
Dutch Passion Dutch Passion AutoBlackberry Kush, AutoEuforia, AutoUltimate in Alien RWDC Pro
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No worries, you're welcome. I am still gearing up for my first grow, so not using ANYTHING at the moment.....unfortunately.........but I am just like you, nothing but the best and buy once.........reading a lot and keep changing my mind about what is the "best".......hahaha.......thanks to this great forum it makes decisions easier, although there is a steep language learning curve to negotiate.......acronyms, abbreviations and expressions only the initiated understand in galore here.....is there somewhere on the forum a dictionary where the most common terms and such is translated into plain english.......I mean, bennies, WTF.......took a little googling to figure that one out......amongst many others.......:no:
Regarding UV sterilizers.......the one you linked to......I wouldn't touch it with a very long barge pole. The thing with these "sterilizers" is that most of them are actually just clarifiers, i.e. they will kill off algae in ponds and such, so the water remains clear. The one you linked to does not even mention anything about flow rate, which is critical(exposure/dwell time). To kill algae, an exposure of 30 mJ/cm2 is minimum, to kill protozoa(what you are after) 180 mJ/cm2 is minimum, and that means a very slow flow rate. You have, what, some 1000 liters or there abouts in your system, and to get an effective turnover rate of say 1 hour, you need a sterilizer which can deliver 180 mJ/cm2 to a flow of app. 16 LPM(liters per minute). Dunno how you plan to integrate/hook it up, in a separate loop or directly in the existing pipes?.........what flow rate, or turnover are you aiming for in your system....... there is the fact that the lamp(s) and the quartz sleeve has to be changed every year or so........a monitor/controller is highly recommended.......and that ain't cheap.......plus the power consumption.....let alone the sterilizer itself, and you are talking in the kilo's for a years worth. There is no way that a cheap china UV clarifier will frighten any unwelcome critters in your water......and to call a clarifier a sterilizer is rather cheeky by the marketing blokes, perhaps they had been smoking something:slaps: when they dreamed that one up........although I suppose in you ran 0.1 LPM through it they critters might raise an eyebrow for a little while......
Have a look here for more info and to give you an idea http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ultraviolet_germicidal_irradiation#Effectiveness http://www.emperoraquatics.com/basic-uv-controller.php and http://www.emperoraquatics.com/smart-ho-uv-sterilizers.php randomly chosen amongst many reputable manufactures.......again, it is expensive gear!
From Wikipedia
Sterilization is often misquoted as being achievable. While it is theoretically possible in a controlled environment, it is very difficult to prove and the term "disinfection" is used by companies offering this service as to avoid legal reprimand. Specialist companies will often advertise a certain log reduction e.g., 99.9999% effective, instead of sterilization. This takes into consideration a phenomenon known as light and dark repair (photoreactivation and base excision repair, respectively) in which the DNA in the bacterium will fix itself after being damaged by UV light.
Aquarium and pond sterilizers are typically small, with fittings for tubing that allows the water to flow through the sterilizer on its way from a separate external filter or water pump. Within the sterilizer, water flows as close as possible to the ultraviolet light source. Water pre-filtration is critical as water turbidity lowers UVC penetration. Many of the better UV sterilizers have long dwell times and limit the space between the UVC source and the inside wall of the UV sterilizer device.
Corgy
Regarding UV sterilizers.......the one you linked to......I wouldn't touch it with a very long barge pole. The thing with these "sterilizers" is that most of them are actually just clarifiers, i.e. they will kill off algae in ponds and such, so the water remains clear. The one you linked to does not even mention anything about flow rate, which is critical(exposure/dwell time). To kill algae, an exposure of 30 mJ/cm2 is minimum, to kill protozoa(what you are after) 180 mJ/cm2 is minimum, and that means a very slow flow rate. You have, what, some 1000 liters or there abouts in your system, and to get an effective turnover rate of say 1 hour, you need a sterilizer which can deliver 180 mJ/cm2 to a flow of app. 16 LPM(liters per minute). Dunno how you plan to integrate/hook it up, in a separate loop or directly in the existing pipes?.........what flow rate, or turnover are you aiming for in your system....... there is the fact that the lamp(s) and the quartz sleeve has to be changed every year or so........a monitor/controller is highly recommended.......and that ain't cheap.......plus the power consumption.....let alone the sterilizer itself, and you are talking in the kilo's for a years worth. There is no way that a cheap china UV clarifier will frighten any unwelcome critters in your water......and to call a clarifier a sterilizer is rather cheeky by the marketing blokes, perhaps they had been smoking something:slaps: when they dreamed that one up........although I suppose in you ran 0.1 LPM through it they critters might raise an eyebrow for a little while......
Have a look here for more info and to give you an idea http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ultraviolet_germicidal_irradiation#Effectiveness http://www.emperoraquatics.com/basic-uv-controller.php and http://www.emperoraquatics.com/smart-ho-uv-sterilizers.php randomly chosen amongst many reputable manufactures.......again, it is expensive gear!
From Wikipedia
Sterilization is often misquoted as being achievable. While it is theoretically possible in a controlled environment, it is very difficult to prove and the term "disinfection" is used by companies offering this service as to avoid legal reprimand. Specialist companies will often advertise a certain log reduction e.g., 99.9999% effective, instead of sterilization. This takes into consideration a phenomenon known as light and dark repair (photoreactivation and base excision repair, respectively) in which the DNA in the bacterium will fix itself after being damaged by UV light.
Aquarium and pond sterilizers are typically small, with fittings for tubing that allows the water to flow through the sterilizer on its way from a separate external filter or water pump. Within the sterilizer, water flows as close as possible to the ultraviolet light source. Water pre-filtration is critical as water turbidity lowers UVC penetration. Many of the better UV sterilizers have long dwell times and limit the space between the UVC source and the inside wall of the UV sterilizer device.
Corgy
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Welcome aboard Bonez, get yourself nice and comfy bro
No worries, you're welcome. I am still gearing up for my first grow, so not using ANYTHING at the moment.....unfortunately.........but I am just like you, nothing but the best and buy once.........reading a lot and keep changing my mind about what is the "best".......hahaha.......thanks to this great forum it makes decisions easier, although there is a steep language learning curve to negotiate.......acronyms, abbreviations and expressions only the initiated understand in galore here.....is there somewhere on the forum a dictionary where the most common terms and such is translated into plain english.......I mean, bennies, WTF.......took a little googling to figure that one out......amongst many others.......:no:
Regarding UV sterilizers.......the one you linked to......I wouldn't touch it with a very long barge pole. The thing with these "sterilizers" is that most of them are actually just clarifiers, i.e. they will kill off algae in ponds and such, so the water remains clear. The one you linked to does not even mention anything about flow rate, which is critical(exposure/dwell time). To kill algae, an exposure of 30 mJ/cm2 is minimum, to kill protozoa(what you are after) 180 mJ/cm2 is minimum, and that means a very slow flow rate. You have, what, some 1000 liters or there abouts in your system, and to get an effective turnover rate of say 1 hour, you need a sterilizer which can deliver 180 mJ/cm2 to a flow of app. 16 LPM(liters per minute). Dunno how you plan to integrate/hook it up, in a separate loop or directly in the existing pipes?.........what flow rate, or turnover are you aiming for in your system....... there is the fact that the lamp(s) and the quartz sleeve has to be changed every year or so........a monitor/controller is highly recommended.......and that ain't cheap.......plus the power consumption.....let alone the sterilizer itself, and you are talking in the kilo's for a years worth. There is no way that a cheap china UV clarifier will frighten any unwelcome critters in your water......and to call a clarifier a sterilizer is rather cheeky by the marketing blokes, perhaps they had been smoking something:slaps: when they dreamed that one up........although I suppose in you ran 0.1 LPM through it they critters might raise an eyebrow for a little while......
Have a look here for more info and to give you an idea http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ultraviolet_germicidal_irradiation#Effectiveness http://www.emperoraquatics.com/basic-uv-controller.php and http://www.emperoraquatics.com/smart-ho-uv-sterilizers.php randomly chosen amongst many reputable manufactures.......again, it is expensive gear!
From Wikipedia
Sterilization is often misquoted as being achievable. While it is theoretically possible in a controlled environment, it is very difficult to prove and the term "disinfection" is used by companies offering this service as to avoid legal reprimand. Specialist companies will often advertise a certain log reduction e.g., 99.9999% effective, instead of sterilization. This takes into consideration a phenomenon known as light and dark repair (photoreactivation and base excision repair, respectively) in which the DNA in the bacterium will fix itself after being damaged by UV light.
Aquarium and pond sterilizers are typically small, with fittings for tubing that allows the water to flow through the sterilizer on its way from a separate external filter or water pump. Within the sterilizer, water flows as close as possible to the ultraviolet light source. Water pre-filtration is critical as water turbidity lowers UVC penetration. Many of the better UV sterilizers have long dwell times and limit the space between the UVC source and the inside wall of the UV sterilizer device.
Corgy
Hello mate,
Yea a dictionary is a good idea I think, funny 'bennies' got me going for a while too
I didn't know what DWC was either.. :slaps:
I lives and I learns again.. Perhaps the UV filter is out then. No one at Alien use such a thing, there advice was a decent chiller and be done. Prevention being better than a cure. No doubt I will be a tad more energetic on the subject if things go wrong. Most of what I read could have been prevented with a chiller. My Alien system comes with a 2000 litre per minute pump (Im sure thats what they said).
Ive got to fill it up tomorrow and check for leaks... Fingers crossed none of the tank seals are pinched.
I fancy the idea of pouring in some red die and seeing how quickly it gets pushed round and mixed in all the tanks. That would make a decent video I reckon... Something for Alien to bother with tho, Im not cleaning up red die off everything
Mop and bucket at the ready - Wish me luck
Good luck........as a "dye test".....use potassium permanganate, just 1 g will do.......it will color the water purple/reddish, and sterilize your system to boot.....then when you need to get rid of it.......add half a cup of h2o2.....and the water will magically become gin clear in seconds.....the h202 oxidises the permanganate.......method widely used for dead spot testing, and there is not a trace of any color left anywhere after the h2o2.
By the way, mountaineers, gals and pals who go trekking and such in Gryll Bear lands, use PP to make drinking water safe, which adds a nice reddish color to their water disposal. Check it out on an unsuspecting friend and listen to the frantic call for an ambulance.......only kidding, overdoing it might result in having to explain matters to the fuzz......
2000 liter per minute pump.......me thinks not........that would blow your whole system to kingdom come.......more like 2000 per hour.
Corgy
By the way, mountaineers, gals and pals who go trekking and such in Gryll Bear lands, use PP to make drinking water safe, which adds a nice reddish color to their water disposal. Check it out on an unsuspecting friend and listen to the frantic call for an ambulance.......only kidding, overdoing it might result in having to explain matters to the fuzz......
2000 liter per minute pump.......me thinks not........that would blow your whole system to kingdom come.......more like 2000 per hour.
Corgy
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M
MrBonez
Guest
lol man i gotta ask you what kind of weight did you get out of this one plant...!? thats fuckin massive!!! i just harvested a 'Magnum" and this dwarfs it without a doubt.! i havent read the full thread here only bits and pieces, lol i got distracted when i came upon the photos... so how much did she yield bro.? Bonez gotta know
It's TRUE great minds think alike ... hehe..
UV filters are a big no-no in hydro. They kill all things good and bad, plus I think all iron content from the nutrient mix gets messed with and precipitates. I really like running bennies. It was the only thing that worked when I got hit by slime/pythium. Enjoy both making them and seeing how plants react to them. The only thing is they will stain the roots yellowish, but thats about it.
UV filters are a big no-no in hydro. They kill all things good and bad, plus I think all iron content from the nutrient mix gets messed with and precipitates. I really like running bennies. It was the only thing that worked when I got hit by slime/pythium. Enjoy both making them and seeing how plants react to them. The only thing is they will stain the roots yellowish, but thats about it.
My bad on the pump, 2000lph
Cheers br
Which plant bro?
The one in my gallery next to my name?
If you read the thread, the link is in the footer below it mentions the weight. I think the best plant made over 350g.
My man :tiphat:
Hey might be heading out your way in the next month or so.
My pal has moved over there for winter/spring, then comes back to blighty for the summer.
Sounds lovely, he reckons you got nice weather now... What you saying on that?
No disrespect, but how and why would UVC somehow affect Iron et al?
This forum is vast, and as mentioned before, learning the Lingo is quite AN E
ORT..........How do you make/produce "bennies", sorry for asking, and I am sure if I spent a lot of time searching..........but a forum is a dynamic place and the same questions will be asked time and again.......yeah, I was forum Admin/owner for some 2 years(phpBB though) and passed it on....... Aquaculture.........Forum issue......I can't get a signature here.......keeps telling some hogwash about number of lines being exceed......oh well
PS: make no mistake, well aware of the gargantuan troubles in changing/upgrading forum software........
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Salutations all....
The simple answer is that ultra violet light is able to catalyse (for want of the correct word) the reduction of certain metal ions (for example Fe3+ to Fe2+) the salts of which may be insoluble....
Growth Technology have a product UV balance to counter act the potential problems... Quote:
Ultra Violet (UV) sterilisation is one of the most successful means to control root diseases such as Pythium in hydroponic systems. However the continuous use of UV will cause certain mineral elements to drop out of solution very quickly. For the hobby grower, with a small tank, this can cause major problems within days.
IONIC UV Balance is formulated to make up the missing elements in the same ratio that they are removed by UV. Just add UV Balance to your tank twice a week and you will be able to maintain a full mineral profile.
End of quote....
So there we go....
Sterilisation of the nutrient solution is NOT the answer... one must address the root cause (NPI) of why the nasty bugs have got a foot hold in the first place....
Toodle pip
:tiphat:
The simple answer is that ultra violet light is able to catalyse (for want of the correct word) the reduction of certain metal ions (for example Fe3+ to Fe2+) the salts of which may be insoluble....
Growth Technology have a product UV balance to counter act the potential problems... Quote:
Ultra Violet (UV) sterilisation is one of the most successful means to control root diseases such as Pythium in hydroponic systems. However the continuous use of UV will cause certain mineral elements to drop out of solution very quickly. For the hobby grower, with a small tank, this can cause major problems within days.
IONIC UV Balance is formulated to make up the missing elements in the same ratio that they are removed by UV. Just add UV Balance to your tank twice a week and you will be able to maintain a full mineral profile.
End of quote....
So there we go....
Sterilisation of the nutrient solution is NOT the answer... one must address the root cause (NPI) of why the nasty bugs have got a foot hold in the first place....
Toodle pip
:tiphat:
I would check into the Heisenberg tea, from the start, It helped me BIG time in Hydro!!! Bennies help plants GROW big!! and healthy,
Love the look of that room!!!
Love the look of that room!!!
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