New Grower Does Lighting schedule affect how fast Af plants mature?

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oes Lighting schedule affect how fast Af plants mature?

For example you grew you plants 18/6 all the way through. And someone else grew the same strain under the same conditions but had there lighting schedule 20/4. would the person running 20/4 plants mature faster?

I wanna know this cause to me, the whole point of growing auto flowers is they are fast. after my plants show sex and I transplant them, I try to harvest them 40 days after they have been transplanted. all together about 65 days germinating. I recently switched my lighting schedule to 22/2 to try and make them finish quicker. Do you think this will work?


That's funny cause my Auto blueberry just showed amber trichs at day 57 from germination. So yea it does make a difference. I have trialed and error with 16/8 18/6 20/4 and now 22/2. Have you done any trial and erroring with light schedules??? And the only difference I see is that they mature quicker. WHen I was on 18/6 my trichs turned amber around day 65-70. Fuck that. The whole point of growing Af is because there fast. TIME IS MONEY. You're electricity bill will rise a little more but the investment is worth the return. If I can harvest 10 days sooner it'll give me more crops for the year.

Hitman64 u have no idea what the fuck you're talking about. More males and hermies??? I run my seedling 24/0 and get about 60% female ratio. Everything you said is retarded. And anyone who puts their AF plant under 12/12 is an idiot. I've been growing these for 3 years NON STOP. And stunting has to do with transplanting. They key to making your plant not stunt and become a little 10 inch single cola is transplanting right when they show sex. If you wait too long to transplant your sexed female I guarantee you it will stunt. I've been on 22/2 for the last few month and have had no problems. and I run full 1500ppms of Co2 as well. I wanna know how many crops you've had under your belt and what you're setup is Hitman

If you already knew all the fn answers stop asking questions and go write a book. Be sure to take a chapter and devote it to your 1500 ppm co2 system. For all you have invested in trying to grow you maybe ought to sell off part of that and invest in crocheting or something. I hear there's a big demand for products made by the mentally handicapped. You could retire early. Now...I said extended hours create more makes and hermies. I run 17.5/6.5 with a mechanical timer. I net 87.7% females and don't use feminized seeds. You run your 20+ hour schedule and you said you get 60% females. I hope you're using regular seeds as well. Anyhoo...I'm right. Ta fucking da.
You get amber trichs in 57 days. Good for you. I usually get amber trichs in 60-65 days. My setup is actually quite a bit bigger than yours if you include the outdoor grow. I use all the co2 mother nature provides when I do that. Outdoors this year sucked ass I only ended up with 100 lbs but I had to cut early because of the C130s. They make me a bit nervous at times. Indoors you're about right. I just started indoors and have yet to use the full system. But I have roughly 5kW of lights. Just don't have the room right now but I do have 33 finishing prior to Turkey day and a replacement for each.
Yes I've done trial and error with schedules. That was in the last post. You got my email I'm sure so now you can see why some may run 12/12 or 14/10. I think I've addressed about everything now. With the exception of saying that irregardless of whether you forgot to take your medication or not the majority of is here so know what were doing and if you feel we don't then by all means pull a gypsy and start your own forum. ..that way you'll always be right and have the last word. Maul I know its beyond him to so ill apologize for him. You're about as knowledgeable as they come as far as scientifics go.
 
There are "guidelines" and important info about Autos but saying there's only one way to grow is false. I started out on 18/6 didn't like my results so I went to 20/4. I veg my photos with my autos until 1 month then pull the photos out into the "dark room" for 12/12. This is what works for ME in MY area and set up, surroundings...etc BUT it may not work very well for someone else... I don't feed mine til they show sex but sometimes I get pistils at day 17 or earlier... I follow what that individual plant or strain or even pheno are telling me (and NO not Geno type I do know the difference). So there really is no one way to grow.

I personally have found that starting my plants in a very low ferted soil (FF Happy Frog) and adding in my own myco treatment once a week has brought me more Females than Males in 4 different strains as opposed to starting them in FF Ocean Forest which is hotter than the Happy Frog... I have been doing this experiment for many months now so I know this to be true. BUT in they way that I grow... I don't know if it would be that successful for someone else growing differently or using different lighting...

I also can't stress enough that with Autos the first few days/weeks of life are CRITICAL to your end result. Autos don't have that recovery time that Photos do so every mistake is permanent. As far as how much the lighting affects this (stunting, m/f ratio) I just don't know. It hasn't affected my grows personally. But differently ferted soils have for sure! Also feeding them before sex is devastating. Can't stress that enough. I personally think the SOIL has more affect on the maturity than the light schedule. Since Autos go by the AGE of the plant and NOT the light schedule.

:smokebuds: We can all agree to disagree but try to keep it on a positive level. The most important thing is we all get great results doing it our own ways. That's the most important thing in my opinion. That we all have success!
 
I grow in 24/0 light. I don't have to bother with light leaks or a timer - and I like to keep it simple. I feel that the continuous light schedule contributes to tighter nodes. The only time I ever had a 50% male grow was when I had some drama going on and neglected my grow - not enough water, temps were high, and didn't transplant early enough - stress / stunted. My girls like it 75F or below. All I know is what I see in my own room.
 
You know I'm in! :smokebuds: I agree with OHC... That works for him. I think the 4 hours of darkness do give them some sort of benefit. If not just to drop the room temps for a bit! :smokebuds:
 
There are "guidelines" and important info about Autos but saying there's only one way to grow is false. I started out on 18/6 didn't like my results so I went to 20/4. I veg my photos with my autos until 1 month then pull the photos out into the "dark room" for 12/12. This is what works for ME in MY area and set up, surroundings...etc BUT it may not work very well for someone else... I don't feed mine til they show sex but sometimes I get pistils at day 17 or earlier... I follow what that individual plant or strain or even pheno are telling me (and NO not Geno type I do know the difference). So there really is no one way to grow.

I personally have found that starting my plants in a very low ferted soil (FF Happy Frog) and adding in my own myco treatment once a week has brought me more Females than Males in 4 different strains as opposed to starting them in FF Ocean Forest which is hotter than the Happy Frog... I have been doing this experiment for many months now so I know this to be true. BUT in they way that I grow... I don't know if it would be that successful for someone else growing differently or using different lighting...

I also can't stress enough that with Autos the first few days/weeks of life are CRITICAL to your end result. Autos don't have that recovery time that Photos do so every mistake is permanent. As far as how much the lighting affects this (stunting, m/f ratio) I just don't know. It hasn't affected my grows personally. But differently ferted soils have for sure! Also feeding them before sex is devastating. Can't stress that enough. I personally think the SOIL has more affect on the maturity than the light schedule. Since Autos go by the AGE of the plant and NOT the light schedule.

:smokebuds: We can all agree to disagree but try to keep it on a positive level. The most important thing is we all get great results doing it our own ways. That's the most important thing in my opinion. That we all have success!

westVirginiaRebel I couldnt agree with you more. Everything you said is spot on. Like you said, Never ever feed nutes until they show sex. And at their young age is the most crucial part. There isn't much room for error in autos compared to regular strains. If you mess up anything with in the first 3 weeks you might as well throw out the plant. And hitman64, when i said 60% i'm just guessing. and it's really a rought estimate. I germinate atleast 150 seeds a month and of course i dont keep track of my ratios. I would honestly say Its more in the 70% ratio. I have bad short term memory probably from all the pot) but I do feel like I throw away way less males compared to the females I transplant. Hard to tell cause the males always show sex a few days earlier. So good for you if your getting 87% ratio. I have thousands of beans so i dont really mind. Also about to order colloidal silver this weekend from a guy on here who claims he has made feminized seeds from autos. I really hope it works. It would be a whole new ball game if I could make feminized seeds
 
I would like to say this ...ohc. You're on the right path. Somewhere above I gave the outline to getting more females. I've tested it hard. I've been told male and female is the shape of the seed the size of the seed even the damned color of the seed and none are correct. If you can meet 4 of those criteria I mentioned there's no reason why you shouldn't get at least 75% females every batch. As far as light goes its whatever you think works best. Metal halides for 20 hours a day showed me better results than hps for both sex and vigor. Flourescents might be an even better option because of the reduced heat and the fact that light penetration isn't nearly as much of a concern. There's one trick to transplanting that you can use at anytime and that's tiering. Takes a few extra pots but of you're breeding for quality parents its the way to go. Not to mention that done correctly meaning you don't jam the roots in like your pissed and you don't overwater them in you should see some pretty amazing growth spurts. happy days.
 
Absolutely Hitman! I've been very outspoken about being totally against transplanting Autos BUT NOT if you are going to Tier. Which is the ONLY way I transplant. For me it's too much of a risk to transplant Autos in fear of stunting them. I use both 400W HPS and Two 4' T5's for a total of 65,000 Lumens. I use the two different spectrums. 400W for main source directly overhead and the T5's for side penetration. In my spot it has worked well thus far.
:smokebuds:
 
Pham cs works fine for feminizing ya just have to watch your ppm levels if everything I've learned I right I think its 800 ppm for the best results. University scientific makes some stuff too called Seedfem in the event the Cs doesn't work for ya. That's the only two ways I know. Besides breeding the hard way. the reason I know my percentage is because of my spreadsheet program. Kinda dangerous legally but it works wonders when you have a shitload of plants. If I didn't have it half of mine would probably die.
 
That's the only two ways I know. Besides breeding the hard way. the reason I know my percentage is because of my spreadsheet program. Kinda dangerous legally but it works wonders when you have a shitload of plants. If I didn't have it half of mine would probably die.

i know what ya mean... without my spreadsheets and pics for tracking, i woudnt have any idea where im at in my breeding programs... lol

catch 22
 
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