Dialing In MEGA CROP for Auto's

Yup ,better than that,...
I'm gonna video the test as you're asking.
And show everyone what's going on in most cities today.
I'm going to use my Bluelab EC meter.

So the cities are doing something funky with the water to have 0 chlorine, yet abide by the law for health standards.
(Not arguing, just saying).
There is more to this picture than we're being told. (unless budget cuts are lowering Chlorine levels).
Nah,....they'd never do that.....for a cost savings........right????????????

Stay tuned!
Don't confuse me here. PPM is a measure of the mineral content of the water not chlorine we are talking about two different things. You will have a city full of sick people if they are not sanitizing the water. There are other ways to do it besides chlorine or chloramines but it is really expensive in comparison.
 
Ahhh I hadn't thought about it absorbing CO2. Thanks for the information!


Reverse osmosis water is nearly pure water with a PH of 7. Reverse osmosis is a filtration method that removes more than 99% of all the contaminants in water. Not all RO systems are equal and some can run a starting PH around 6.5.

The result of a good RO system is nearly pure water, which has neutral pH of 7. But if it’s exposed to air, RO water drops down to an acidic pH range of 5 – 5.5. Why? Pure water is very hungry. it actually grabs CO2 right out of the air! Within about an hour, a glass of pure RO water can drop from a pH of 7 down to a pH of 5.5 or lower and become acidic water. Alkaline water has a pH of greater than 7, so reverse osmosis water is not alkaline water. To alkalize it, you have to add calcium and other minerals to it.
 
Don't confuse me here. PPM is a measure of the mineral content of the water not chlorine we are talking about two different things. You will have a city full of sick people if they are not sanitizing the water. There are other ways to do it besides chlorine or chloramines but it is really expensive in comparison.
You're brining up an excellent point.
So, lets play devil's advocate.

How do we test the city water (if not by ec)?

Lets be creative,....even a pool test kit should, in principle show a certain amount of chlorine.

This is very relivant to most people making a feed mix with chlorine in their feed.
(Subject to a completely new thread right!).
 
You're brining up an excellent point.
So, lets play devil's advocate.

How do we test the city water (if not by ec)?

Lets be creative,....even a pool test kit should, in principle show a certain amount of chlorine.

This is very relivant to most people making a feed mix with chlorine in their feed.
(Subject to a completely new thread right!).
How accurate do you want to be? You can send your water out to a lab for complete analysis for $159 for basic tests or $500 for the works.

Or there are test strips with reasonable accuracy for much less.

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Thanks! Yes, they are MC. I have them at 540ish ppm/5.9 pH right now, after seeing some leaf burn at 600 ppm. They are bouncing back from some kind of lockout and “flush” (@515 ppm) a few days prior (see photos in the prior linked post), but they look much better than they did on Saturday, with no new brown spots and mostly green (and some yellow) on new growth.

When making and adjustment to nutes, generally how long should we wait to see a change before making another adjustment?
1-2 weeks is a good time. Some nutrients are mobile, and some are not mobile. Immobile nutrients in leaves will never be able to be recovered really even after you make changes.
Mobile nutrients
are nitrogen in the form of nitrate, phosphorus (P) in the form of phosphate, potassium (K), magnesium (Mg), chlorine (Cl), zinc (Zn) and molybdene (Mo). Calcium (Ca), sulfur (S), iron (Fe), boron (B) and copper (Cu) are immobile.


You're brining up an excellent point.
So, lets play devil's advocate.

How do we test the city water (if not by ec)?

Lets be creative,....even a pool test kit should, in principle show a certain amount of chlorine.

This is very relivant to most people making a feed mix with chlorine in their feed.
(Subject to a completely new thread right!).
In our area (San Diego) you can actually get city water reports that are published that give a good sense of your tap water breakdown.
 
Color-wheel Test Kit
Color wheel test kits use a powder or tablet chemical DPD (N,N diethyl-p-phenylene diamine) that causes a color change to pink in the presence of chlorine. The color wheels are simpler and less expensive than digital meters because to measure the intensity of the color change, the field worker uses a color wheel to visually match the color to a numerical free or total chlorine reading. The test kit can be used to measure free chlorine and/or total chlorine (using different chemicals in the kit), with a range of 0 – 3.5 mg/L, equivalent to 0 – 3.5 ppm (parts per million).
Benefits of the color-wheel test kits:
  • Accurate readings if used properly
  • Low cost
Drawbacks of the color-wheel test kits:
  • Potential for user error
  • Lack of calibration and standardization
Digital Colorimeters
Digital colorimeters are the most accurate way to measure free chlorine and/or total chlorine residual in the field in developing countries. These colorimeters use the following method: 1) addition of DPD tablets or powder into a vial of sample water that causes a color change to pink; and, 2) insertion of the vial into a meter that reads the intensity of the color change by emitting a wavelength of light and automatically determining and displaying the color intensity (the free and/or total chlorine residual) digitally. The range of the meter is 0 – 4 mg/L, equivalent to 0 – 4 ppm (parts per million).
Benefits of the digital colorimeters:
  • Highly accurate readings
  • Fast results
Drawbacks of the digital colorimeters:
  • Expense (higher cost than other methods)
  • Necessity of calibration with standards


You're brining up an excellent point.
So, lets play devil's advocate.

How do we test the city water (if not by ec)?

Lets be creative,....even a pool test kit should, in principle show a certain amount of chlorine.

This is very relivant to most people making a feed mix with chlorine in their feed.
(Subject to a completely new thread right!).
 
I'm growing on soil with 2 part MC. Some ppl suggested to water plain watering 2x after feeding in soil. But I have read others say they feed every time. So just curious about you other soil growers using MC. Do you feed MC every watering or water once or twice in between feedings?
 
@terp182
What medium are you growing in?
If soil (coco/peat),...the damage done to larger leaves will be permanent to partial return.
What you really need to be concerned with, is the new growth if any).
Look for other things as well , like leaves stiff, or wimpy?
your ec and ph are now on track
The plants general health will recover.

FWIW,
your next plants will look f'ing amazing with your new knowledge!
(we've all been there bro,), ...
cheers on the graduation to a new level...:d5:

It's mostly coco/perlite with some roots organic thrown in at the last minute, which I should have just left out.

Thanks for the encouragement! I was getting frustrated when I was making (the wrong) changes and they weren't improving, but now that they've turned the corner and I've learned more about the issue, I'm much more confident going into the next grow!
 
Really depends on what you run for ppms. Keep the ppms moderate, 500-550 ppms and you can feed every watering. I do it that way, and I recycle my soil, plus I never flush. Been using the same soil for almost three years.


Just chopped this one a couple weeks ago.



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I'm growing on soil with 2 part MC. Some ppl suggested to water plain watering 2x after feeding in soil. But I have read others say they feed every time. So just curious about you other soil growers using MC. Do you feed MC every watering or water once or twice in between feedings?
 
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