Dialing In MEGA CROP for Auto's

@Simplicio I believe that the statement from the standpoint of nutrients NEEDED - it is accurate. That does not exclude products that can enhance those same nutrients and their up-take into the plant. In soil Humic acid is a major benefit - not to the plant directly - but to everything that delivers the nutrients to the plant.

Humic acids physically modify the structure of the soil, with benefits such as: • Improved structure of soil: Prevents high water and nutrient losses in light, sandy soils, simultaneously converting them into fruitful soils by way of decomposition. In heavy and compact soils, aeration of soil and water retention is improved; cultivation measures are facilitated. • Prevents soil cracking, surface water runoff and soil erosion by increasing the ability of colloids to combine. • Helps the soil loosen and crumble, and thus increases aeration of soil as well as soil workability. • Increases water holding capacity of soil and thus helps resist drought. • Darkens the color of the soil and thus helps absorption of the sun’s energy. Humic acids chemically change the fixation properties of the soil, with benefits such as: • Neutralizes both acid and alkaline soils; regulates the pH-value of soils. • Improves and optimizes the uptake of nutrients and water by plants. • Increases buffering properties of soil. • Acts as natural chelator for metal ions under alkaline conditions and promote their uptake by the roots. • Becomes rich in both organic and mineral substances essential to plant growth. • Retains water soluble inorganic fertilizers in the root zones and reduces leaching. • Possesses extremely high cation-exchange capacities. • Promotes the conversion of nutrient elements (N, P, K + Fe, Zn and other trace elements) into forms available to plants. • Enhances the uptake of nitrogen by plants. • Reduces the reaction of phosphorus with Ca, Fe, Mg and Al and liberates it into a form that is available and beneficial to plants. The productivity of particular mineral fertilizers is increased considerably. • Liberates carbon dioxide from soil calcium carbonate and enables its use in photosynthesis. • Helps to eliminate chlorosis due to iron deficiency in plants. • Reduces the availability of toxic substances in soils.

Kelp has natural gibberillic acid a plant growth hormone. This can be very helpful in germination. It is true that there is kelp in MC 1 part but you cannot soak a seed in it because of the other nutrients being too strong for a seed. Kelp also has some 60 plus useful minerals.

Yucca powder is an Organic surfactant. Very useful in soil and hydro. It helps keep my drippers from clogging. Soil and or coco can become hydrophobic if allowed to dry. This means it repels water. This in turn will create dry pockets in the soil and roots there will die. If your soil - coco have accidentally dried out use a surfactant to help re-wet it. Use it regularly so pots wet evenly throughout when fertigated. Great for foliar mixes as well.

Botanicare Hydroguard® contains unique beneficial bacteria, Bacillus Amyloliquefaciens, selected specifically for its superior ability to enhance the symbiotic relationship between the roots and their surrounding medium. This product stops and or prevents root rot. I don't need it often but I keep a fresh bottle on hand in case I do.
 
Some of this is valid and I use to agree with this, then I read this: https://www.gardenmyths.com/humic-substances-humic-acid-garden/

take a look, it's worth reading.



@Simplicio I believe that the statement from the standpoint of nutrients NEEDED - it is accurate. That does not exclude products that can enhance those same nutrients and their up-take into the plant. In soil Humic acid is a major benefit - not to the plant directly - but to everything that delivers the nutrients to the plant.

Humic acids physically modify the structure of the soil, with benefits such as: • Improved structure of soil: Prevents high water and nutrient losses in light, sandy soils, simultaneously converting them into fruitful soils by way of decomposition. In heavy and compact soils, aeration of soil and water retention is improved; cultivation measures are facilitated. • Prevents soil cracking, surface water runoff and soil erosion by increasing the ability of colloids to combine. • Helps the soil loosen and crumble, and thus increases aeration of soil as well as soil workability. • Increases water holding capacity of soil and thus helps resist drought. • Darkens the color of the soil and thus helps absorption of the sun’s energy. Humic acids chemically change the fixation properties of the soil, with benefits such as: • Neutralizes both acid and alkaline soils; regulates the pH-value of soils. • Improves and optimizes the uptake of nutrients and water by plants. • Increases buffering properties of soil. • Acts as natural chelator for metal ions under alkaline conditions and promote their uptake by the roots. • Becomes rich in both organic and mineral substances essential to plant growth. • Retains water soluble inorganic fertilizers in the root zones and reduces leaching. • Possesses extremely high cation-exchange capacities. • Promotes the conversion of nutrient elements (N, P, K + Fe, Zn and other trace elements) into forms available to plants. • Enhances the uptake of nitrogen by plants. • Reduces the reaction of phosphorus with Ca, Fe, Mg and Al and liberates it into a form that is available and beneficial to plants. The productivity of particular mineral fertilizers is increased considerably. • Liberates carbon dioxide from soil calcium carbonate and enables its use in photosynthesis. • Helps to eliminate chlorosis due to iron deficiency in plants. • Reduces the availability of toxic substances in soils.

Kelp has natural gibberillic acid a plant growth hormone. This can be very helpful in germination. It is true that there is kelp in MC 1 part but you cannot soak a seed in it because of the other nutrients being too strong for a seed. Kelp also has some 60 plus useful minerals.

Yucca powder is an Organic surfactant. Very useful in soil and hydro. It helps keep my drippers from clogging. Soil and or coco can become hydrophobic if allowed to dry. This means it repels water. This in turn will create dry pockets in the soil and roots there will die. If your soil - coco have accidentally dried out use a surfactant to help re-wet it. Use it regularly so pots wet evenly throughout when fertigated. Great for foliar mixes as well.

Botanicare Hydroguard® contains unique beneficial bacteria, Bacillus Amyloliquefaciens, selected specifically for its superior ability to enhance the symbiotic relationship between the roots and their surrounding medium. This product stops and or prevents root rot. I don't need it often but I keep a fresh bottle on hand in case I do.
 
The question to ask is : what study proves without argument that humic acid makes a difference.
Does it work, probably.
Do we have proof, no.
Is it worth the extra cost , vs not using.
Well it boils down to being peace of mind.
If it makes you happy, excellent.
If you don't use it, nobody yet has proven an X% reduction in growth.
I don't remember seeing any humic in the 2.0 version of MC.
But I do know there is Mg in the sweet candy ...and I believe humic in the SC.
 
This is simply a case of justifying our methods we all do our research and come up to our own conclusions and move forward
Yeah sorry I meant 0.5 EC. Maybe ill think about RO water as a last resort but seems a bit of an expensive faf right now, I like to keep things as simple as poss.

I think epsom salts would be a good thing to try then - what do you think Waira ?
Some of this is valid and I use to agree with this, then I read this: https://www.gardenmyths.com/humic-substances-humic-acid-garden/

take a look, it's worth reading.
@pop22 I suppose it is just up to which expert you want to believe:

 
The question to ask is : what study proves without argument that humic acid makes a difference.
Does it work, probably.
Do we have proof, no.
Is it worth the extra cost , vs not using.
Well it boils down to being peace of mind.
If it makes you happy, excellent.
If you don't use it, nobody yet has proven an X% reduction in growth.
I don't remember seeing any humic in the 2.0 version of MC.
But I do know there is Mg in the sweet candy ...and I believe humic in the SC.
Yes they’ve added humics and fulvics along with kelp extract and yes the Mg. Edit that is for the new sweet candy
 
A couple of posts back.
Mango had an excellent write up on the effects of humics.
This lead to a conversation on MegaCrop.

I've been using MC for about a year now and want to share a couple of observations.
Others like @pop22 , can definitely add some good feedback as well.

Starting seedlings in conditioned peat / & or coco.
There always seems to be a little purple in the stem in the first 2 or 3 weeks of seedling.
So I start my first actual feed with 70ppm of epsom. I resist.using a calmag solution in the belief that the calcium at this young age will cause a premature lock out of everything good in the MG ( later on).
The epsom does the trick.
Into weeks 4 thru 15, I still use epsom at about 50ppm ( every feed).
The rest of the feed is 400 to 600ppm of MC.
Every other feed has an added 80-100ppm of sweet candy.

My point being.
How are the rest of you treating the purple stems in seedling?
 
I like the credibility of Harley Smith and have taken his Master Gardener Classes but I should not follow blindly when a conflicting opinion is presented. That opinion states we do not know if humic acid works.

Google found 601,000 scholarly articles on the subject. I am guessing we know something?

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I just picked the first one by title that may shed some light on our topic. I read some of it but that shit is boring.

Here is a link if you want to read it for yourself https://www.nature.com/articles/s41598-019-48620-4



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I know we are not growing peanuts but hey I like peanuts :crying:. I probably won't be around when the studies related to cannabis are done.

But like @GeorgeCloney said each to our own.

:vibe:
 
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