Status
Not open for further replies.
I'm using GH Floranova for bloom for flowering and GH Floranova grow.
I know what time about to switch I'm just wondering if I should just stop the grow and start from the bottom with bloom with about 300 ppm. Which is where I started the grow nutrients. The directions are the same.
You want to use the Bloom at the same or more ppm than where you finished with the Veg, don't go back to very light ppm.

I use FloraNova and don't use the Veg at all as the Bloom still has a good amount of N

f6
 
It's a Big Bud. I actually wanted to use the liquid and dry koolbloom but my guy at the hydro store claimed they leave a bad taste and that AN would be better. I'm using CaliMagic, RapidStart, Floralicious+, and MaxiBloom(KISS). I'm hesitant to use the bud booster because it wasn't really what I wanted.
Does it show the chemical analysis on the label? Should be P and K. Probably some Mg, too.

If it's the AN stuff, i imagine it's on the up and up.

My First Grow
Me vs. 00 Seeds Automatik Collections 600w Top Fed DTW
 
It's a Big Bud. I actually wanted to use the liquid and dry koolbloom but my guy at the hydro store claimed they leave a bad taste and that AN would be better. I'm using CaliMagic, RapidStart, Floralicious+, and MaxiBloom(KISS). I'm hesitant to use the bud booster because it wasn't really what I wanted.

My First Grow
Me vs. 00 Seeds Automatik Collections 600w Top Fed DTW
If you don't think you need the extra P and K, then certainly don't add it. I am squarely in the "less is more" camp.
 
guy at the hydro store claimed they leave a bad taste

Then I don't think the hydro guy is really all that up on plant biology.

Let's say I plant some tomatoes in a large pile of shit. The tomatoes will grow like gangbusters, pulling what they need out of the shit and nothing more, and the tomatoes will taste just fine.

All plants work this way.
 
I won’t go to deep into lighting but what I can say is wattage is tricky without a bit of info behind it. There are 2 things that do affect growers in the change over to hps and one is my new trademarked term “wattage multiplier” :rofl: and second is efficiency. If a light is 100% efficient and is 100 watts you get 100watts of light. If you have a 100 watt light at 5% efficiency and the wattage multiplier is 5x you now have a claimed wattage of 500 but an output of 5w of light. It should be more clear as to what a light gives out as far as light goes, hps, led or cob. But people still go off of wattage.

As far as spectrum goes I actually doubted white light myself early on. Just think the sun, it’s color and intensity is real and complete and has been growing the best MJ for hundreds of years.

Hey @BigSm0 hope things are going busily your way. All good points you make about efficiency & wattage. And I'm absolutely as guilty as most in refusing to stop using wattage as a lighting performance delineator. Until The Industry comes up with a better established scientific standard that's applicable across all lighting platforms, I'm afraid we're stuck with it... or at least I am - Guilty as charged
:deadhorse: :lol:

But in practice, wattage actually does provide a reasonable reference to various products. You might recall a chart that @SPZ posted
a few months ago
on the thread "What should be on a grow light review". He did a lot of research comparing various products' actual wattage-at-the-wall to PPF output, and his research confirmed wattage is not that far off as a comparator. Yes, some ranges - from a minimum of 1.92 to maximum 2.92 PPF per watt - but the great majority of LED's came in between 2.0 and 2.45 PPF per watt, which is less than a 20% variance across all products he included. The full thread with his research results table is at https://www.autoflower.org/threads/what-should-be-on-a-grow-light-review.64857/page-6#post-1770578 starting at post number 59
We might argue that PPFD is more accurate than PPF as it measures light at the plant, but PPF measures all the LED is going to be capable of doing without benefit of lens, reflectors and any other selective measurement criteria that could influence results. Still points to the need for an established industry standard.

I can't agree more with your comment on spectrum. The more I grow and watch other growers' results, the more I'm becoming a believer in spectrum. I'm not sure I ever doubted white light, as much as I doubted some LED manufacturers' claims that they could tailor light output to the spectrum most needed by the plant. In theory, yes. But did anyone do it in practice? Not with Blurple lights' they didn't. Half of them claimed that, while the "white light" vendors made their point that white IS full spectrum. I think they won the battle. And I couldn't agree with you more - the Sun is the deFacto standard against which all will be judged!!!
 
I personally felt it too too much BS and he was trying to sell AN rather than help me.

My First Grow
Me vs. 00 Seeds Automatik Collections 600w Top Fed DTW
Honestly, that was my impression as well. AN is a pretty high-markup product at the retail level, from what I see.

I use AN now, and while the cost doesn't bother me that much (a few dollars of nutes for a couple ounces of dank is a fair trade-off in my books). But having to break out the chem-lab to measure out and mix 6 (count em) 6 different liquids twice a day is getting old. Gonna take a shot at megacrop for the next start.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top