Live Stoner Chat Current Live Stoner Gossip July 2018

[puggle6]

Back Crossing.. Take you're parents and make seeds, then take those seeds, and mate it back to one of the parents. Then keep doing that, and in each new generation (F2, F3, etc..) you choose the best ones that have the traits you want, and just pass those on. It means that each generation has increased chance of getting the new trait you want, but the stability and genetics of the parent. After doing that for 6 or 7 generations you have your commercially ready seed.

Ok, so while you're in a mood! Wax me this!

Crossed a Stone Dragon male with a Portal Ruby.

Of the seeds should I just turn and self pollenate a few times to get a stable Auto fem?


6

 

[Rev. Green Genes]

Ok, so while you're in a mood! Wax me this!

Crossed a Stone Dragon male with a Portal Ruby.

Of the seeds should I just turn and self pollenate a few times to get a stable Auto fem?


6

This is a good example. I think Stone Dragon is stable enough to be called a breeding parent. So here is what it would look like if you wanted to breed some Ruby into a Stone.

1. Mate the best Ruby male to the Dragon Female. Or vice versa (not sure on this point)
2. Take the best Male Ruby kids and pollinate a new original Dragon line female.
3. Take the best Male Ruby kids and pollinate a new original Dragon line female.
4. Take the best Male Ruby kids and pollinate a new original Dragon line female.
5. Take the best Male Ruby kids and pollinate a new original Dragon line female.
This is now an F5 child

F5 will still have phenotypic variance, to be stable 99% go on to f7 or higher.

 

[hairyman]

Lost me post then ,, So I take my f1 from the f5 and mate them again with more f5 to get f6

 

[Rev. Green Genes]

What I'm explaining is the proper way. You can self, but it is not advancing the F generation, it is sort of like a clone. The same goes for Hairyman, if you do not have access to the parent of the F5 generation seed you have, anything you breed from it will be a new F1 cross.

 

[puggle6]

This is a good example. I think Stone Dragon is stable enough to be called a breeding parent. So here is what it would look like if you wanted to breed some Ruby into a Stone.

1. Mate the best Ruby male to the Dragon Female. Or vice versa (not sure on this point)
2. Take the best Male Ruby kids and pollinate a new original Dragon line female.
3. Take the best Male Ruby kids and pollinate a new original Dragon line female.
4. Take the best Male Ruby kids and pollinate a new original Dragon line female.
5. Take the best Male Ruby kids and pollinate a new original Dragon line female.
This is now an F5 child

F5 will still have phenotypic variance, to be stable 99% go on to f7 or higher.

Jeepers, I almost did the opposite!

Ruby female, SD male

So if I get seeds (selective pollenation of 2 branches)

It's a Ruby Dragon..

I have 6x Ruby auto fems available, the Stone Dragons are Auto regs so apart from sperms didn't want to keep including them?

I can germ a bunch of my Ruby Dragons and find a male to put with SD female but wouldn't that push back some Auto fem to Auto reg? I'm looking for AF, will pheno hunt with the small amount of seeds I need. Not trying to create anything new!

Just being 6

 

[Ownbp6]

That would be because you didn't look at the details. "600W" means that it is capable of pulling 600W when driven at it's maximum rated value. But since the cooling isn't there for that means it would go "pffzzzt" in a matter of minutes so is driven at a much lower level.

That is why I mentioned the "minefield" of pre-built lights earlier, for I've seen lights on AliE saying "600w" but who's actual power draw was under 100w, "300W" lights saying they are so efficient they use 50w. The actual power used is critical, not what they claim it is (our 300w light is as good as a 450w HID but only pulls 50w from the wall" doesn't really add up, does it), for that tells you how much they are having to under-drive their LEDs to allow it to work.

If they don't provide details of actual current draw, do not think of buying them. If they recommend you turn it off every 5 hours to let it cool down, ignore it. Look at NUMBER of ratings as well as actual comments to see "flaws", look at sales numbers as the higher they are the more likelihood of a more quality product and good service. And you can always ask questions, as others will have, where buyers will give their opinions. That's the basics for AliE shopping, if you're on Wish or Amazon you're on your own because I don't trust one word on either site as there's a hell of a lot of misleading there, and you will find "branded" lights there as well as knock offs which, on paper, look to be the same as the "brand" (Not mentioning names, as the same applies across the board) insofar as power, etc, go, but what you've done is not done some basic checks and bought something bigger that is driven at a lower level than your 300w lights. It's quite possible they even pointed that out in their "ad", but you didn't look.

So contact the retailer and ask why this is, demanding all the info such as power usage and see if it matches the ad on <insert reseller site here>. If you can't yourself, and it's easy to buy a watt meter that goes into your wall socket if you don't have the skill or courage to use a multimeter with mains power going through it, then ask someone to see what the power draw is. If there's no match to ADVERTISED actual current/power draw, NOT the "600w" BS, then you have grounds for refund. Otherwise they'll just say you didn't see or didn't ask so you bought it at your own risk so, well, suck it up because you bought a pig in a poke.

One last thing. How hot does the power cable get? Is it nice and cosy? If so, replace it with a proper one capable of 3kW as it should be a standard "kettle lead" (for those of you old enough to remember the days before it became a "PC power lead") connector and that side of things is notorious for having thick insulation around a thinner cable than a "genuine" one has, leading to higher impedance, an increase in temperature, a drop in the available voltage and/or current flow, meaning your light is dimmer because the power cable isn't capable of handling the necessary so less than necessary reaches the light. You've probably got a spare somewhere, try replacing the power cable and see if there's a difference.

It was supposed to be 200w actual draw but I asked the supplier and they said it’s only 60w actual draw. I sent it back this morning and ordered a 1000w (400w actual draw) for only an extra £7 that has good reviews. Should bring me up to 650w actual draw in my 4x3 tent.

 

[Banjacked]

Lost me post then ,, So I take my f1 from the f5 and mate them again with more f5 to get f6

No, you mate each new generation male with the ORIGINAL mother. That way you're keeping the best traits with the original genes instead of introducing new genes to provide a different plant altogether.

Think of it like "Arkansas", or, if you're in the UK, "Norfolk"...

 

[Rev. Green Genes]

Think of a family tree, A boy or girl who mates with her parent would produce an F2 child. If those people have kids, and do it with grandma who bears a another child than that grandchild is an F3.

 

[Banjacked]

It was supposed to be 200w actual draw but I asked the supplier and they said it’s only 60w actual draw. I sent it back this morning and ordered a 1000w (400w actual draw) for only an extra £7 that has good reviews. Should bring me up to 650w actual draw in my 4x3 tent.

They've told you that, that should be an instant refund.

But it is a word to the wary, it is a minefield and the light you got is a prime example of this, a "1000w" that pulls 60w. Underdriven due to cheap and, effectively, nonexistent cooling yet marketed so as to sell it to someone who thinks they're getting a good deal.

 

[Rev. Green Genes]

Jeepers, I almost did the opposite!

Ruby female, SD male

So if I get seeds (selective pollenation of 2 branches)

It's a Ruby Dragon..

I have 6x Ruby auto fems available, the Stone Dragons are Auto regs so apart from sperms didn't want to keep including them?

I can germ a bunch of my Ruby Dragons and find a male to put with SD female but wouldn't that push back some Auto fem to Auto reg? I'm looking for AF, will pheno hunt with the small amount of seeds I need. Not trying to create anything new!

Just being 6

I would ask someone else first before you start which one to keep as the backcrossing parent and which one should be the female.
I would guess that if you want Ruby traits but the frame and main line of a dragon than you would want to select the best Ruby males and go back to a new Dragon female each genertaion.

BUT, if you want to have the Ruby be the main parent, than select each generation for dragon traits and breed back to a Ruby Female.

Get it? But this is tricky, I would ask FullDuplex, or some other breeder which way to go for the traits you are after.