Live Stoner Chat Current Live Stoner Gossip Dec/Jan/Feb 2018

[Dichoti]

Yes, larger reservoir it does give you a larger buffer capacity. That is not always in your favor. I run two 27 gallon totes in a RDWC, and working level is 25 gallons. When it works, it works AMAazeBaLLs. Sometimes I get this problem where every night the rez keeps climbing up to 6.2 or so. I think it is a bad combination of nutes. Sometimes the organics don't play well with the chem stuff. So the buffer capacity is keeping it up too high.

At least thats my best theory. And I should know. I have a bloody plant science degree. But this one is still a bit of a mystery.

I've heard that running organics in hydro is a no no, but I've never done this, So I have no clue haha.
I've got another question, too.
At germination, when I move the seedling to the rockwool cube, Would it be a good idea, or bad idea to sprinkle some Mykos around the root?

 

[Kneehigh85]

had to share this...another hobby of mine...Metal detected an old homestead...found my last silver of the year...

View attachment 841232

Holy shit a walking liberty coin!!! My buddy would shit himself for one of those

 

[Dichoti]

Holy shit a walking liberty coin!!! My buddy would shit himself for one of those

I would too. Most I've ever found is a couple beer bottle tops.

 

[Padawan1972]

Holy shit a walking liberty coin!!! My buddy would shit himself for one of those

I think I have around 20 that I have found over the years..no key dates though.

 

[Rev. Green Genes]

I've heard that running organics in hydro is a no no, but I've never done this, So I have no clue haha.
I've got another question, too.
At germination, when I move the seedling to the rockwool cube, Would it be a good idea, or bad idea to sprinkle some Mykos around the root?

I will answer, but your not gonna like it. And this is a can of worms almost as big as the flushing question for soil.


No, mykos will not do a damn thing in hydro. Manufacturers claims be damned. Mycos work by exploiting a large volume of soil to gather nutrients and provide them to the plant, they grow INSIDE the root, to exchange sugars for nitrogen, etc. So it don't work in water. The mycos have CO-evoled specifically to each type of plant. In research studys and journals they all measure the yield effects in soil, and if you have rich soil to begin with the mycos don't need to trade with the plants anyway and there is no yield increase. They are for poor soils, where the sheer size of the mycelium networks can exploit huge volumes of soil for nutes.


sorry.

 

[Kneehigh85]

Not mine, but this is what I’m expecting, praying that I get the same phenos with Mexican airlines, nice scrog would have doubled the yield on this gal but damn look at that node spacing and bud development!

 

[Kneehigh85]

I would too. Most I've ever found is a couple beer bottle tops.

I found a ring once... wasn’t a ring I’d keep nor did I want to pick up lol

 

[EvilScotsman]

@EvilScotsman
I've scoured this site, Soaking up as much information as my thc soaked brain could handle, And picking up little bits of what I'll need to grow successfully, Every pay period. I'm just waiting for seeds to show up now, and trying to decide on res size while I wait. I've got a combination of options I can go for, from using 25 gallon totes, which would run 40 gallons of water, all the way down to 5 gallon buckets which Would run 8 gallons... (Using two of each) Using a bigger volume of water would give me more control over ph and ppm (or so I've read), Which in turn would make it easier on me... But I'd need to re-up on nutes 3/4 of the way through if I go above 1/2 strength.

right, how do i answer this correctly then....
well, what i do is basically painting by numbers with a bit of colour coding. i only use a 20L res so really struggled for the first few months till someone pulled out the sock puppets and stopped hitting me with jargon.
your ppm is parts per million of the nutrients in the res. all youve gotta do is follow the number on the stick. if the number drops you up the nutes. if it rises you add more water.
using a much bigger res will keep this number a lot more steady but it will also make it harder for you to see how much theyre actually taking in wich might cause a few problems till you suss it out properly.

as a general rule i start at 100ppm for newborns and raise it 100ppm per week, roughly till about 1200. then start finishing procedures . by keeping it to small increases every time theres much less chance of problems.if you
do run into something its also a lot easier to fix.
to get my 100ppm i check the manufacturers reccomendations for full strength. make up a batch of that and see what ppm it is. keep the ratios the same but divide the amount accordingly to make 100. now i know the ratios to make the 100 i can make up exactly whatever ppm i want without any guess work.
then comes the colour coding.
if it turns dark green. too much N so drop the a&b
it stems turn purple a lack of P so up the a&b
tops turn yellow up the calmag with added iron.
because i up the nutes the way i do there really isnt much else that can go wrong.
hope that helps you out bud : )

 

[Dichoti]

I will answer, but your not gonna like it. And this is a can of worms almost as big as the flushing question for soil.


No, mykos will not do a damn thing in hydro. Manufacturers claims be damned. Mycos work by exploiting a large volume of soil to gather nutrients and provide them to the plant, they grow INSIDE the root, to exchange sugars for nitrogen, etc. So it don't work in water. The mycos have CO-evoled specifically to each type of plant. In research studys and journals they all measure the yield effects in soil, and if you have rich soil to begin with the mycos don't need to trade with the plants anyway and there is no yield increase. They are for poor soils, where the sheer size of the mycelium networks can exploit huge volumes of soil for nutes.


sorry.

Okay, cool. Glad the pack I have was a freebie, then. I'll have to use it outside when I try my hand at exotic flowers that don't exist in this section of Appalachia, then.

 

[Dichoti]

right, how do i answer this correctly then....
well, what i do is basically painting by numbers with a bit of colour coding. i only use a 20L res so really struggled for the first few months till someone pulled out the sock puppets and stopped hitting me with jargon.
your ppm is parts per million of the nutrients in the res. all youve gotta do is follow the number on the stick. if the number drops you up the nutes. if it rises you add more water.
using a much bigger res will keep this number a lot more steady but it will also make it harder for you to see how much theyre actually taking in wich might cause a few problems till you suss it out properly.

as a general rule i start at 100ppm for newborns and raise it 100ppm per week, roughly till about 1200. then start finishing procedures . by keeping it to small increases every time theres much less chance of problems.if you
do run into something its also a lot easier to fix.
to get my 100ppm i check the manufacturers reccomendations for full strength. make up a batch of that and see what ppm it is. keep the ratios the same but divide the amount accordingly to make 100. now i know the ratios to make the 100 i can make up exactly whatever ppm i want without any guess work.
then comes the colour coding.
if it turns dark green. too much N so drop the a&b
it stems turn purple a lack of P so up the a&b
tops turn yellow up the calmag with added iron.
because i up the nutes the way i do there really isnt much else that can go wrong.
hope that helps you out bud : )

It does, Thank you.