Lighting Cobshop.net info, questions and answers

It's the one I have. .. pretty sure each cob is run at 120 watts think each one can run at 340 watts but best efficiency is to run them at under 200 watts. So led watts is 480 in total plus 80 watts used by the two drivers.

Why are most cobs run at around 60w then?

What's the light like do you have a journal on here?
 
As far as I know the the citizen chip before these are run at 60watts for efficiency these citizen clu058 1825 are bigger and can run at higher wattage is actually best efficiency at 160 watts and under. Only recently purchased the light but a big learning curve u need it high above the canopy !
 
@BigSm0

I wasn't sure if I should keep emailing you questions or not. Then I found this thread so figured I would ask question here in case others have the same questions. I have 2 orders of 2 autocobs in route right now, one parcel went thru Tampa. I'm that guy.....

So how long are the power cords on the autocobs? I want to get my tent ready for them. And with my HPS cool tubes and venting running down the center of the tent already, I need to get poles in place in the ceiling and probably run some extension cords and a power bar. Good to know the weight too, which I saw mentioned in this thread back a couple of pages.
You can ask questions where ever is easiest for you. The cords are 6 feet long. You also don’t have to worry about overloading the circuit. On a standard 15 amp breaker you could theoretically run up to 30 cobs but 25 would be safer. This is only so you and others have an understanding of their draw. You could just add a power strip now and use the same outlet the hps is on. This would most likely still keep you at 1/2 the load. Weight I will get an exact on shortly. I had 6 in the cheapest tent sold over the winter tent and I didn’t notice any sagging or problems with them. They are heavy for their size but not heavy for a grow light.
 
Thanks @BigSm0

I just blew a breaker on one of the circuits yesterday. The garage has 2 x 15 amp thankfully. I had the 2 600HPS running and plugged in a heater and that overloaded the circuit. Not sure how much wattage the heater is. But since that happened I started thinking about how I'm going to need to tap in to both circuits in the garage once I add the 4 autocobs. But given what you said, I might not have to. But there are other devices drawing current like fans, bubblers etc.
 
Thanks @BigSm0

I just blew a breaker on one of the circuits yesterday. The garage has 2 x 15 amp thankfully. I had the 2 600HPS running and plugged in a heater and that overloaded the circuit. Not sure how much wattage the heater is. But since that happened I started thinking about how I'm going to need to tap in to both circuits in the garage once I add the 4 autocobs. But given what you said, I might not have to. But there are other devices drawing current like fans, bubblers etc.

Im not an electrician but the amperage draw of the heater is high. That and not watts tripped the breaker. Heaters are a heavy draw.
 
Thanks @BigSm0

I just blew a breaker on one of the circuits yesterday. The garage has 2 x 15 amp thankfully. I had the 2 600HPS running and plugged in a heater and that overloaded the circuit. Not sure how much wattage the heater is. But since that happened I started thinking about how I'm going to need to tap in to both circuits in the garage once I add the 4 autocobs. But given what you said, I might not have to. But there are other devices drawing current like fans, bubblers etc.


Most heaters are around 1500 watts. Some larger ones are up to 1750 watts. The maximum wattage available on a 15amp breaker is 1800 watts. According to the NEC- national electrical code the max continuous load shouldn’t be more than 80% of that which is 1440 watts. Electric heaters would classify as a continuous load appliance as well as the hps’s. Something to consider is all wattage no matter the source is equal to the same amount of heat per watt. 4.31btu’s. Swapping 1500 watts of heater with 1500 watts of light would have the same heat output while giving you more light. To keep your room warm you may be able to lower the heater and raise the light wattage without going over the wattage maximum.
 
@BigSm0 and @Dudeski

The heater is for maintaining temperature during the day when the lights are off and it's sub zero outside. So the intent is no light, just heat. Once I get the cadence down I'll be able to run the heater and lights on one circuit since they won't be on at the same time. Just need to get the timing down and setup my timers. I'm a total newb going in to my second grow. So if all works out like I'm thinking I'll be able to have it all on one circuit. Lights on time will have 1200 watts of HPS and the 4 autocobs and fans, lights off will have the heater and fans.

Once I get the 4 autocobs setup to run right beside the HPS fixtures I'll probably have more questions. And some trial and error time before its dialed in.

I have 4 DP plants under the HPS now in flower with maybe 4 weeks remaining. I'm really hyped with the anticipation of having the COB white light blasting down along with the HPS to finish them off. Being my first grow, I'm pretty damn excited in general!
 
What type of heater do you have? In the winter I set up an additional tent and the tents temps are subject to the outdoor temps. I picked up a decent heater on amazon with a thermostat built in. I set that to 70 and also have a thermostat hooked up to an exhaust fan set to 80. Dehumidifier is set to 60%rh and that’s it. It’s always within the set temps and humidity It’s not easy getting things set up but it sounds like your on the right track.
 
Right now I took an oil based heater I use in my basement office out to the garage and put it in the tent. Just put it out there a couple of days ago and getting used to what settings work best for when the lights are off. No thermostat though. So I have to set the temp myself, which is a pain. I'll probably get tired of that pretty quick and get another heater with thermostat. Probably go for an oil heater again. I can't figure out if another heater type would be better for a tent.

I had a thermostat controller for my exhaust fan system but found it did not work great at the time (during hot summer days), so I switched to a speed controller which I don't mind at all. Generally I can set the speed at med or high depending on ambient temps and leave it for days on end until there are big temp swings that force a change. Speaking of which, I think I'll go say good night to the ladies!

During the winter I can see how thermostats on the exhaust fan and the heater would be better. I'll get there eventually. I kind of like the manual way of doing it now because I have to go to the garage multiple times per day to check on things and see the effects of subtle changes in the environment.
 
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