New Grower CBD Auto-grow Journal v1.02

[Waira]

homies,....

... well that top pic with the whitish patches had me thinking WPM, but not the others,... nute splash "burn" and "lensing burn" from droplets that may act like a magnifier lens is very often over stated, misdiagnosed,.... Nute burn on foliage would only happen if the solution was very strong, too strong for soil use as well IMO,.. foliar feeding is very common in the horticultural industry,.....

Now that bottom pic is more like it! That smacks of P defc., though Ca defc. can appear similar,... where on the plant is this leaf, mid, upper,...? I need nute's and supplements info, schedule/dosing;. soil brand; pH of solution, and especially in-pot pH,.... if by any luck you have the right tools for this (Accurate 8 soil pH probe is a good option).... We need to determine if this is a simple lack-of defc., or a pH/salt build-up lockout,...

 

[CBDJunkie]

I am just not sure what that is?

I have yet to see the "powdery" effect. It comes on so fast and does damage and seems to go away. the previous leaf is still alive, aside from the section I cut for photos. I have some Monterey Garden Insect Spray that may help....

Worried a bit about increasing the humidity until after I have treated the plant/plants with something. Granted dry air is great for spore mobility, but humidity is great for mildew production and leaf damage. Do not see any new leaf defects.

Description:A ready-to-use spray to control a wide variety of pests and also for powdery mildew. Active ingredients are Potassium Salts of Fatty Acids and Spinosad.
For Powdery Mildew: Apply when first signs of powdery mildew appear and repeat at 7-10 day intervals. Must come into contact with the powdery mildew to be effective. Problem is, I have not seen the tell-tale signs (powdery stuff).

Spinosad is a relatively new insect killer that was discovered from soil in an abandoned rum distillery in 1982. Produced by fermentation, Spinosad can be used on outdoor ornamentals, lawns, vegetables and fruit trees, to control caterpillars, thrips, leafminers, borers, fruit flies, and more. Spinosad must be ingested by the insect, therefore it has little effect on sucking insects and non-target predatory insects. Spinosad is relatively fast acting. The pest insect dies within 1 to 2 days after ingesting the active ingredient. Will not persist in the environment. Sunlight and soil microbes break it down into carbon, hydrogen, oxygen and nitrogen. Classified as an organic substance by the USDA National Organic Standards Board. OMRI Listed for use in organic production.

My issue does look similar to down y mildew, especially a couple of the lower left defects on this leaf.

 

[Mañ'O'Green]

I have yet to see the "powdery" effect. It comes on so fast and does damage and seems to go away. the previous leaf is still alive, aside from the section I cut for photos. I have some Monterey Garden Insect Spray that may help....

Worried a bit about increasing the humidity until after I have treated the plant/plants with something. Granted dry air is great for spore mobility, but humidity is great for mildew production and leaf damage. Do not see any new leaf defects.

Description:A ready-to-use spray to control a wide variety of pests and also for powdery mildew. Active ingredients are Potassium Salts of Fatty Acids and Spinosad.
For Powdery Mildew: Apply when first signs of powdery mildew appear and repeat at 7-10 day intervals. Must come into contact with the powdery mildew to be effective. Problem is, I have not seen the tell-tale signs (powdery stuff).

Spinosad is a relatively new insect killer that was discovered from soil in an abandoned rum distillery in 1982. Produced by fermentation, Spinosad can be used on outdoor ornamentals, lawns, vegetables and fruit trees, to control caterpillars, thrips, leafminers, borers, fruit flies, and more. Spinosad must be ingested by the insect, therefore it has little effect on sucking insects and non-target predatory insects. Spinosad is relatively fast acting. The pest insect dies within 1 to 2 days after ingesting the active ingredient. Will not persist in the environment. Sunlight and soil microbes break it down into carbon, hydrogen, oxygen and nitrogen. Classified as an organic substance by the USDA National Organic Standards Board. OMRI Listed for use in organic production.

My issue does look similar to down y mildew, especially a couple of the lower left defects on this leaf.
View attachment 909195

I looks similar to powdery mildew but it also looks like P deficiency according to @Waira answer his questions above before you do anything for PM. What would be ok to do no matter what would be to fertigate the whole pot with the 70% transition nutrient blend @ 5.8 PH to about 20% runoff. Concentrate on the areas you have been watering to rinse the salts down and out. If you have a salt build up that should flush it out of the root zone without hurting your microbes. The Accurate 8 Soil PH meter is available through Amazon.

 

[CBDJunkie]

Now that bottom pic is more like it! That smacks of P defc., though Ca defc. can appear similar,... where on the plant is this leaf, mid, upper,...? I need nute's and supplements info, schedule/dosing;. soil brand; pH of solution, and especially in-pot pH,.... if by any luck you have the right tools for this (Accurate 8 soil pH probe is a good option).... We need to determine if this is a simple lack-of defc., or a pH/salt build-up lockout,...

@Mañ'O'Green

Where on the plant is this leaf, mid, upper,...?
The first time this instance occurred the leaves were on the very bottom when the plant was about 8in tall. This recent issue the leaves were about midway up, 7in up from a now 17in plant. At this point I was certain that "nute splash was not the issue."
This is also not happening to a second plant (different strain) in this tent of identical height. The stems color of these leaves is identical to other stems on the plant as well as on the other, unaffected plant green on the undersides and redish-purple on the top...albeit I'm wearing color glasses to compensate with the grow-lights.

Need nute's and supplements info.

Nutrients
General Hydroponics- Flora Series Drain-to-Waste
FloraMicro
FloraGrow
FloraBloom
Floraliscious Plus
CalMag
RapidStart
pH Up/Down
Humboldt Nutrients MMX405 Myco Maximum (as per instructions)

Schedule/dosing

I looks similar to powdery mildew but it also looks like P deficiency according to @Waira answer his questions above before you do anything for PM. What would be ok to do no matter what would be to fertigate the whole pot with the 70% transition nutrient blend @ 5.8 PH to about 20% runoff. Concentrate on the areas you have been watering to rinse the salts down and out. If you have a salt build up that should flush it out of the root zone without hurting your microbes. The Accurate 8 Soil PH meter is available through Amazon.

Soil brand
RHP CYCO Platinum Series - Coco Pearl (coco coir with perlite)

pH of solution - 6.0 (BlueLab pH Pen)

 

[CBDJunkie]

I looks similar to powdery mildew but it also looks like P deficiency according to @Waira answer his questions above before you do anything for PM. What would be ok to do no matter what would be to fertigate the whole pot with the 70% transition nutrient blend @ 5.8 PH to about 20% runoff. Concentrate on the areas you have been watering to rinse the salts down and out. If you have a salt build up that should flush it out of the root zone without hurting your microbes. The Accurate 8 Soil PH meter is available through Amazon.

OK, so how is this going to "rinse" the salts.... by the lower pH?? Just watered with this mix last night, although it was @pH6.0

 

[Mañ'O'Green]

OK, so how is this going to "rinse" the salts.... by the lower pH?? Just watered with this mix last night, although it was @pH6.0

No just running water/nutrients with about 20% runoff dissolves the salts and flushes them out the bottom. 5.8 PH is right in the middle of the Phosphorus Hydro range. We want to to make it as available as possible just in case it is a P deficiency. Coco is a hydro method of growing and you PH accordingly.

 

[CBDJunkie]

No just running water/nutrients with about 20% runoff dissolves the salts and flushes them out the bottom. 5.8 PH is right in the middle of the Phosphorus Hydro range. We want to to make it as available as possible just in case it is a P deficiency. Coco is a hydro method of growing and you PH accordingly.

View attachment 909380

Fertigation of the whole pot with the 70% transition nutrient blend @ 5.8 PH to about 20% runoff - complete.

 

[Mañ'O'Green]

Fertigation the whole pot with the 70% transition nutrient blend @ 5.8 PH to about 20% runoff - complete.

Ok let's see if the problem goes away.

 

[CBDJunkie]

The Blue Cheese seed I planted on April 27th is now H 3in x W 4in. Just transplanted it to large pot. The coco, wet stayed together well with a modest root system. The pot was H 7in x W 4in x D 4in. The leaves, in general, are a bit yellowish, probably as a result of too high of a nute formula added once. watered with just water this past time and gave it a 40% Week 3 nute feeding after transplant.

Blue Cheese is T munus 3.5 weeks. I am banking that the Auto's will be done before this one needs reduced light. If this plant is to stay in the tent I will need to do some plant training.

 

[CBDJunkie]

Accurate pH8 Soil pH and Moisture Meter - It tests soil pH & moisture. What would this information be used for?

Note: Day 11 of flowering