Im growing jack herer auto in coco using flora series and calimag under a 2 foot 8 bulb 195 watt t5 lighting. Can any body give me any hints on how to get the most out of my grow using these items .
Grow Mediums C.E's (easy) coco guide ver 0.3 (2013)
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Tyler_Durden88
It's all about the Trichomes
Very helpful thread im a soil grower who just switched half my grow to coco and I seem to have alot less margin of error with the coco. Less deficiencies and lockout issues. Im using Advanced nutrients sensi and have had zero problems thus far but like you said im only at half strength their recommended dose. The only issue is lowering the RH in the grow room. Im doing a side by side soil vs coco double grape grow thread right now and you can definitely see the diffrences.This is a short guide I wrote a while ago. I'm reposting it since the old thread got deleted during the fiasco last year and some1 pm'd me asking for it.
I will be adjusting it over the few days to correct any mistakes in there.
C.E's Coco Guide Ver0.3 (7/2013)
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Greets mates,
Haven't seen any thread here that talks about coco, so I might as well start one since I've been growing with it for quite a while and I love the results !
I will edit this with time and try to organize it more, so please bear with me
So Coco coir/peat (theres a difference) is basically a buffered (be sure it is !), reusable* hydro medium and thus should be treated like a hydro medium. And if it is, it will reward you with plants that grow bigger, better, and faster than in soil.
*: You can re-use a pH-buffered bag of coco for up to 4 times. After that you must use buffering agents and re-strengthen the coco with trace minerals or else you will run into lockout problems ! Also, if you plan to reuse (you should), be sure you apply enzyme products in the final weeks of the prior grow and first weeks of the subsequent one. Make sure you lightly sieve your coco to remove all roots you can find. The rest will be taken care of by the enzyme products.
Preparing:
Unless you are preparing coco in bulk, just take it out of the bag and pack it into your pots not too much, but not too little either as the coco will pack itself everytime you water and you end up with coco a few inches under the rim of the pot, not good. I like to have the final level just a few centimeters (2-3) under.
6-6.5L are the smallest I'd recommend, after going through a nightmare with 3.5L pots (they get dry so damn fast).
It might be good to mix some perlite in with the coco. Maybe 15-20%, I wouldn't recommend more as it will hurt the buffering strength of your medium.
Regardless of what is printed on the bag, it is always a good idea to water your medium thoroughly before use plant your seeds with low EC/ppm water, around 0.6-0.8EC, not higher, and pH around 5.7 (acidity encourages the root growth). I plant my seeds directly into the final pot as I don't really like transplanting in coco as coco is more fragile and will break up easy and mess up your roots. This is up to you though ofcourse.
Note: If you are going with cuts instead of seeds you can use higher ECs like 1.0, but really less is more at the beginning stage and low ECs help encourage the roots to grow rapidly into the medium to get more of the good stuff.
Watering:
I will talk about how wet the medium should be, as a lot of people get it wrong in the beginning.
By the way, you can either water by hand like a normal soil grow or use a drip system, which is more preferable in coco for the later stages as it helps the wetness of the medium stay more stable than a hand watering schedule, which in turns keeps pH more stable and keeps the plants happier.
If you want to hand water make sure you water slowly as the coco medium is quite easy to dislodge. So if you water fast you will notice that your roots are floating ! Not good ! In both cases, you need around 20% runoff to keep your medium healthy. You cannot overwater coco, the more water you give, the better, you just waste water and nutes though.
During the first **two to three weeks, the coco medium should be treated somewhat more or less like soil though, not too wet, until the root system is fully established. It is recommended that you use rooting tonics like Canna Rhizotonic to get your plants to root up as fast as possible. Never let your coco dry though ! Once the surface looks a bit flaky you need to water.
**: I want to make this point clear. Its not a matter of days or weeks. You need to wait until the root system looks established enough to start taking the full hydro experience It might take two, it might take five, depending on the condition of your medium, whether you use root boosters, and the general health of your plants and roots. As mentioned earlier the soil-like treatment for the first few weeks encourages the roots to dig deep and form up well.
Once your plant is all rooted up, you can, and should, keep your coco medium wet at all times, since the pH of the medium will change a bit as it gets drier, and even if the coco has pH buffering, that is best left to combat the pH fluctuation that occurs when the plant feeds and leeches ion from the medium. Within a week or two you will start to notice thick fuzzy white hydro roots shooting out.
Keeping the medium properly watered eventually gets harder and harder as the plants becomes big and start taking up quite a lot of water, and this is why a drip system is better as it helps keep the coco wet all the time. If you want to go with hand watering, you will probably need to water once a day starting from week 2-3, (once per 2-3 days prior to that), and probably up to two times a day. This will vary with how big your plant gets, how much the strain itself drinks, how much you ventilate, your Rh, and temperatures, etc.
The idea is, just keep an eye on your medium and keep it wet.
And also, always have your water pH at around 5.7-5.9, that is the best range.
If anything tho, go lower, not higher, down to 5.5.
Feeding/Nutes:
[Please note that for EC readings, I use a tap water of EC 0.2 as a base]
You can use any chemical fertilizer on coco, but the ones produced specifically for it are best since the ratio of minerals and trace-minerals reflect what should be present in a coco medium. Also, they include buffering agents that help the coco stabilize the pH at 5.5-6.0, and are also made to be best absorbed in that spectrum.
It is very important to feed with every watering in coco. Even from day 0. A totally nuteless medium will discourage roots from growing rapidly, so start with 0.5-0.6EC for the first week, and I recommend you use products like rhizotonic as they really help in coco.
By the end of week 1, or around day 10, you should be upping your EC to around 0.8-1.0 already. The plants themselves will let you know once they need more.
After the end of week 2 start increasing your EC by 0.1 each 5 days or week, depending on your plants. I would go to a maximum of 1.2-1.4 in veg, 1.4-1.8 in flower. This changes with strains as some need more and some need less.
**Note: I no longer use additional PK during flower, nor do I recommend it. Instead, I use a 3-part nute system and I increase/decrease the pk ratio at will by using different ratios of the grow/micro/bloom bottles.
(**)If you use PK13/14 or any pk cocktail take your EC down to 1.6 or so first since even 1.8 will sometimes burn your plants with those kinds of products. Take it up slowly to see how much your plants can take and try not to burn your tips ! Use the same dose for a few days as sometimes a dose that works for one day will burn your plants after consecutive waterings.
Also, to know how muck pk13/14 to apply, here is what I do, as I never follow bottle labels. Say at week 3-4 of flower you are gonna start giving pk 13/14. At the first day if say your EC should have been 1.7, mix you base nutes to 1.6, and add pk13/14 till it reaches 1.7. And ofcourse regulate ph as pk13/14 will raise it. Each week decrease your base A/B or 1-component nutes ec by 0.1 and up the pk13/14 by 0.1.
This will gradually make your N go down and you PK go up in the mix, as you better decrease the N later on in flower so as to decrease the leafiness. Especially in autos since its needed. You MAY need to add some trace minerals and/or cal/mag when you do this. Some bloom additives take this into consideration and have trace minerals and cal mag inside of them along with the hormones and other plant cocktails. Again, take it slow and make the transition in small steps and as to not shock your roots/plants.
This needs some trial-n-error to dial in but by starting low and working your way up you can pretty much nail it from the first try or two. Don't be discouraged to try different mixes on differents plants to see what works best for you.
I take my ec down to 1.6 one week before the flush.
Note: You can follow your nutrient supplier's grow schedule, but most of them recommend EC's that are too high and dosages that will totally fry your plants. I always start with 1/4 the dosage that the bottle say and look at EC to measure the dosage, not how much ml per L of nutrient.
If they are green and going dark, you can probably pull back the EC. If they are going a bit light green, up your EC. Don't wait for them to go yellow ! And try not to burn the tips !
This takes some time to get used to and this varies from strain to strain.
I've had several strains hooked onto the same irrigation system only to have some go dark green , while others are light green, and others have their tips burned !
It is always best to have clones in any professional setup, but since this is in autoflower site you should always keep in mind that autoflowers generally tolerate less EC than photoperoid strains, and different autoflower strains have different EC requirements. This ofcourse goes for all mediums, not just coco.
Flushing
This is still a debated topic amongst coco growers. Some people do it and some don't. If you want to though, only do it for the last 5-10(****) days of your grow in hydro/coco. And preferably give the plants a dark period during the flush as many report this helps the plant eat everything and pump out as much resin as possible.
****: I've done tests with 5 days and 10 days. I see no difference but some people just insist on flushing for 2 weeks or so in coco. To each his own.
Guide is not at its final version, so there might be some errors of course. I'm only human after all.
If you find any missing or incorrect details please comment.
Questions are welcome too ofcourse
Happy growing n goodluck !
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Note: EC levels vary with each strain so please don't follow the numbers by the letter. Do some side by sides to find whats best for you. Good luck !
How much seasol are you usingJust a small update guys,
Been recently using Seasol instead of rhizotonic and I am BLOWN AWAY.
Not to mention Seasol is 7 times more concentrated and 6 times cheaper !
I am using it both in veg and flower with great results so far.
So if any of you can get seasol,,, try it.
I use the same amount as ryzotonic in the original receipe and it does very well. Being that seasol is said to be more concentrated you could probably use a bit less.
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Just a small update guys,
Been recently using Seasol instead of rhizotonic and I am BLOWN AWAY.
Not to mention Seasol is 7 times more concentrated and 6 times cheaper !
I am using it both in veg and flower with great results so far.
So if any of you can get seasol,,, try it.
Hey C.E2 At what dosage from Day 0 - the end are you feeding Seasol?
PreeeeeeaaaacccchhhhConfessions of a coco grower. Coco is in me opinion the best medium for in house growers. Follow the manufactures recommendations.
Soil, unless, prepped up and living is going to be just a heavy medium. Indoor growers are tricksters--controlling an environment exclusively. The trick is a system of light changes not found in nature if one is growing photos, and still with autos one is providing an artificial light/dark schedule for they are already hormonally predisposed to flower--irrespective (remember "irregardless" is not an English word--) of light cycle.
Living micros based soil needs time to be whipped up into a feeding frenzy thus allowing a partnership between roots and nutrient availability breakdown. Such is why a soil grower, if the soil is dead (applying microbes in powder form still takes time and is easily washed away in overflow) has to and ends up applying chemical fertilizers, otherwise the plant fades away into a marginal existence (quality wise). The organics have to be--cooked up for roots to uptake--that is time to prep up with sugars to allow direct uptake via roots. In fact, as most know lower leaves feed the roots and upper canopy leaves provide flower nutrition--the mobile nutes. Micro nutes follow a different assimilation being immobile. Calcium has some mobile aspects but very little according to pros. So roots grow or are sustained by the lower leaves as a supply station--a two way street feed themselves to grow and, at same time, uptake for upper leaf development and as flower supply stations.
What have learned from personal experience. Follow the manufacture's recommendation in general, and adjust feeding from low to higher limit if necessary.
For years and year, Is' religiously applied either calcium/mag liquid or Epsom salt in initial mix based on flimsy--evidence. Evidence gathered in forums and in, at least, one highly praised grow book. Well--yes--get a good 150 ppm as a starting point for--organic or soil/chemical grows it is necessary. Such is contrary when using Canna Coco products or its one major competitor.
Discovery--last few grows followed Cana Coco directions------------RO water 0> to normally around 40 ppm. RO is never absolutely devoid of PPM (minerals). As opposed, to distilled water which is truly dead water.
What has happened the usual burning of leaves near two/three weeks of flowering is gone. This was a near 100% event. Always--the unfeminine and expected ph out of wank looking burns--some minor most notable. Not sure why this has occurred--logic/deductive reasoning--tells me that extra calcium and/or magnesium shows as a ph burn--in disguise. Scientifically--Me knows little to nothing about this phenomenon just basic common sense--if it keeps happening with cal/mag yet doesn't occur without supplementing then something--good has happened!
This grow is my best looking/aromatic product and shall share a photo in a week or two. Might just put it up here if that is ok.
Lastly, used a modest amount of Rhizo just til roots fully developed within a few weeks. Little Canazym was used for "fabric pots" do a better job of breaking down roots. The product does work to breakdown old roots yet enzymes have not been "formally" studied as an absolutely nor beneficial aspect of indoor cannabis growing.
Did not use--the expensive Canna Boost. Just used some GH Floricious as a last 10 day feed then a few days of flush rinse--I do not reuse coco unless in a pinch.
The real lesson learned----follow the manufactures recommendations. When Canna says--and they know--use RO water with little to marginal PPM they are being--professional. CannaCoco has tested products and as growers we have paid them in effect for the research--the calcium and mag levels are just right. This does not mean on some occasion one will come across a plant in need of cal/mag supplementation.
So--keep it simple. Try to avoid the supplement hype. I wasted $100 of pounds. That is if a new grower avoid my errors. A plant can grow and be gifted with stacks and stacks of trichs with just A and B fertilizers. Indeed--one can grow vegan/organic in coco with "specialized" liquid fertilizers. The difference between such and living soil is that the bottled organics are ready for assimilation and can bypass micro factory chemical breakdown of raw organic material found in soils. In essence they are bottles of pre-processed organics, as opposed, to raw soil organics which need the micros up and active.
I know this thread is ancient but I had a question.
When he says to treat it like soil for the first few weeks does he mean let it dry out quite abit before refeeding? And would you feed till run off then dry out and feed to run off again OR just lightly feeding with no run off and letting dry out before feeding again?
When he says to treat it like soil for the first few weeks does he mean let it dry out quite abit before refeeding? And would you feed till run off then dry out and feed to run off again OR just lightly feeding with no run off and letting dry out before feeding again?
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