Grow Mediums C.E's (easy) coco guide ver 0.3 (2013)

Yield is smaller, I guess with that...
14.5 OZ in a 60cm x 100cm area 4 plants ( the four plants in the top pic).2 auto bombs and two Northern Lights.
I think that was pretty good as I could have put another couple of plants in there.
The Northern Lights gave almost double what the auto bombs did so If I had gone with all NL autos the yield would have been awesome and would have pobably have been in the 18 OZ area. seeing that they were approx 4.5 OZ each dry weight and @ 18-19" tall.
Growing this way avoids any popcorn buds any space on the inside of a plant that doesn't get light doesn't produce good bud and the taller the plant the lower down you go the less good bud you get down there as the light is shadowed out and inverse square law means that the light intensity decreases the further away from the light it is.
There is no wasted space on these plants it is all bud, so pack em in and reap the rewards, I know most people aren't growing this way but it is very similar to the AF-SOG technique that mephisto use as you will see in there blog, starting in a small pot and transplanting to a larger pot at sex.
I think they use larger pots but then they have the space.
I originally got this technique from the Joint Doctor and it is one he advises to use when growing out his Ogre strain, so you can see this is an established technique that growers and breeders are and have been using.
 
Hey Jay long time no speak!
Things have got a bit busy for me!
However I still rocking the coco and I learned a lot from your posts!!
So a big thanks brother! I'll be sending a slp your way for all you knowledge and info!
Thanks for the nice words on the crop i posted.
The two smaller plants got 2.5OZ apiec and the shortest one was only 12" tall.(AutoBombs)
The two northern Lights Auto (which were freebies so I don't know which breeder they were from) got to about 18" each and yeiled a little over 4.5OZ each (dry).
I was running just over 500W with 3 LEDS.
I'm currently test a Northern Grow Lights DIY COB Kit, pulling 300W fro the wall, so I've dropped over 200W.
We will see how it performs, I'm also testing dinafems Fruit Auto under it.
As well as testing Optic foliars range of foliar spays in a 50/50 comparison on the Dinafen fruit Autos.
Link is in my sig.
I've only just started as I had a health scare and for a while it looked like I might have cancer but the test came back clear!!!
How you doing mate ? I hope you been keeping well.
Link me to any projects/journals you have going on i'll be sure to check them out or you can just tag me any time @arty zan .
Passing to @JAYAR :pass:

:slap: Incoming for all your great work and posts!
 
:pass: Glad to hear youre all good and rockin the coco, represent! Will stop by and read up on your grows. Ive been good man same old cycle on repeat. Need to get growing my green thumb is itching something serious.. was growing chilies outdoors but I miss the Ganja hopefully soon I will be back to it.
 
:pass: Glad to hear youre all good and rockin the coco, represent! Will stop by and read up on your grows. Ive been good man same old cycle on repeat. Need to get growing my green thumb is itching something serious.. was growing chilies outdoors but I miss the Ganja hopefully soon I will be back to it.
Bring it on Jay , it would be great to see you grow some herb!
I look forward to it!
 
Confessions of a coco grower. Coco is in me opinion the best medium for in house growers. Follow the manufactures recommendations.

Soil, unless, prepped up and living is going to be just a heavy medium. Indoor growers are tricksters--controlling an environment exclusively. The trick is a system of light changes not found in nature if one is growing photos, and still with autos one is providing an artificial light/dark schedule for they are already hormonally predisposed to flower--irrespective (remember "irregardless" is not an English word--:eyebrows:) of light cycle.

Living micros based soil needs time to be whipped up into a feeding frenzy thus allowing a partnership between roots and nutrient availability breakdown. Such is why a soil grower, if the soil is dead (applying microbes in powder form still takes time and is easily washed away in overflow) has to and ends up applying chemical fertilizers, otherwise the plant fades away into a marginal existence (quality wise). The organics have to be--cooked up for roots to uptake--that is time to prep up with sugars to allow direct uptake via roots. In fact, as most know lower leaves feed the roots and upper canopy leaves provide flower nutrition--the mobile nutes. Micro nutes follow a different assimilation being immobile. Calcium has some mobile aspects but very little according to pros. So roots grow or are sustained by the lower leaves as a supply station--a two way street feed themselves to grow and, at same time, uptake for upper leaf development and as flower supply stations.

What have learned from personal experience. Follow the manufacture's recommendation in general, and adjust feeding from low to higher limit if necessary.

For years and year, Is' religiously applied either calcium/mag liquid or Epsom salt in initial mix based on flimsy--evidence. Evidence gathered in forums and in, at least, one highly praised grow book. Well--yes--get a good 150 ppm as a starting point for--organic or soil/chemical grows it is necessary. Such is contrary when using Canna Coco products or its one major competitor.

Discovery--last few grows followed Cana Coco directions------------RO water 0> to normally around 40 ppm. RO is never absolutely devoid of PPM (minerals). As opposed, to distilled water which is truly dead water.

What has happened the usual burning of leaves near two/three weeks of flowering is gone. This was a near 100% event. Always--the unfeminine and expected ph out of wank looking burns--some minor most notable. Not sure why this has occurred--logic/deductive reasoning--tells me that extra calcium and/or magnesium shows as a ph burn--in disguise. Scientifically--Me knows little to nothing about this phenomenon just basic common sense--if it keeps happening with cal/mag yet doesn't occur without supplementing then something--good has happened!

This grow is my best looking/aromatic product and shall share a photo in a week or two. Might just put it up here if that is ok.

Lastly, used a modest amount of Rhizo just til roots fully developed within a few weeks. Little Canazym was used for "fabric pots" do a better job of breaking down roots. The product does work to breakdown old roots yet enzymes have not been "formally" studied as an absolutely nor beneficial aspect of indoor cannabis growing.

Did not use--the expensive Canna Boost. Just used some GH Floricious as a last 10 day feed then a few days of flush rinse--I do not reuse coco unless in a pinch.

The real lesson learned----follow the manufactures recommendations. When Canna says--and they know--use RO water with little to marginal PPM they are being--professional. CannaCoco has tested products and as growers we have paid them in effect for the research--the calcium and mag levels are just right. This does not mean on some occasion one will come across a plant in need of cal/mag supplementation.

So--keep it simple. Try to avoid the supplement hype. I wasted $100 of pounds. That is if a new grower avoid my errors. A plant can grow and be gifted with stacks and stacks of trichs with just A and B fertilizers. Indeed--one can grow vegan/organic in coco with "specialized" liquid fertilizers. The difference between such and living soil is that the bottled organics are ready for assimilation and can bypass micro factory chemical breakdown of raw organic material found in soils. In essence they are bottles of pre-processed organics, as opposed, to raw soil organics which need the micros up and active.
 
Confessions--part 2. DRY POTS

Coco's numero one (Alan Partridge--episode one) enemy--that is from my perspective.

If unsure if pot needs water then do water. Two gallon pots will need daily watering in late veg and early flowering possible a nightly top off.

Three gallon can often go one/two days without watering but err on the side of caution.

____________________________________________

Coco will dry with a vengeance. Have had following scenario--pot feels about 50% moist. Eight hour later plant drooping. With hydration it will revert back within a short period and look normal in appearance.

In me estimation, a dry coco pot is the most stressful event facing cannabis indoor grows,

Osmosis process is sensitive in coco. In effect, the grow is nearly hydroponic as opposed to soil.

Of course, transpiration is negatively affected. Dry pot stress results in inter sexing, poor flowering etc.

Just like an old car running while boiling over or dry radiator--the result is often a car that never seems to run as well prior to overheating.
 
Btw I still use Canna Rhizotonic, as I've done tests and seen CONSIDERABLE gains by using it.
Pretty much the only Canna product i'd ever use, and even then I just use it a few times per grow.

That's it for today folks.
Ill be updating as required.

Any comments/questions welcome in here.
If anything is missing or off let me know.

Would you advise against Canna Coco A+B?
 
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