Bob's search for the real White Widow with Dutch Passion's regular genetics

[Trichome farmer]

Sideboob shot.

 

[WildBill]

I'm currently watching these YouTube clips --> LINK
They are about tissue culture. Since I used to grow my own mushrooms, no not that kind. I have all the equipment for a sterile environment. Even built myself a glovebox. Looks like this one, but I used my 3D printer to make the attachments for the gloves to the box.


That's a fine gent you had there. Hope you kept some of that pollen

Ohh I gotta stay away from that!


My OCD would go

 

[Bob's Auto's]

Just like using STS on a female, Florel or Ethephon should create female flowers on a male. To what extend, we'll just have to see. I've not seen this procedure being used before except in some studies. There might be a reason for it, but you know me. I show everything....the good, the bad and the ugly...

My hope is that I will be able to see how the flower clusters form and more important see the trichome development on those calyx's. If completely successful even smoke a sample. Ethephon has a half life of about 7-25 days and is used in fruit setting for human consumption. LINK
I've used Ethephon before LINK. A friend of mine gave me 1L readily mixed to test out on some females. The dilution of Ethephon has to be very accurate. I believe it sits around 400ppm. Also you need to keep it at a pH of 4.5 or it will go bad.

For those interested in creating female flowers on a male canna plant, here is a scientific study.

 

[Antonio_DutchPassion]

Definitely an interesting topic mate, thanks for sharing, do you know if its a good representation of what the influence of the male will be, flowertype wise in the new regular cross?

 

[Bob's Auto's]

Definitely an interesting topic mate, thanks for sharing, do you know if its a good representation of what the influence of the male will be, flowertype wise in the new regular cross?

No as I haven't tried this on a male yet. Sam the skunkman did show a picture of a plant he treated, but the quality was so bad you couldn't make out any detail of the bracts and all...

Btw, It all depends on when you start using the ethephon and the concentration. Even the pH of the solution is of importance.
I've been reading whole day, got a trial account on springer. Two days left so I'm making the best out of it. Loads of studies from the seventies until the early two thousands...

But, what I've not found and what 'we' only know on this forum is the test I did with the female auto's last time. What did we learn from that debacle?

• After using the Ethephon you need to treat your plants like clones. ie, They need a humid environment to prevent the leaves from wilting. Remember what happened with my ladies?
• You'll need a solution of 450ppm.
• The pH of the mix needs to be 4.5 as this effects the conversion of Ethephon into Ethylene. The lower the pH the longer it will stay in it's original form. It's actually the Ethylene that's burning your leaves, so the importance of the pH can't be underestimated!
• Spray the entire plant, leaves stalks even underneath the leaves, but do this one hour before lights come on. So the liquid get's enough time to soak into the plant. Do not try the soil drench as some people advice, this doesn't work or kills your plants. Don't spray only parts of the plant like Sam suggested. This will only result in a partial conversion and in my eyes would make the exercise moot.
• Start spraying one week before you switch to flower and repeat every week. Easy when you're playing with photo's of course. On an auto this would be a lot more difficult to time right.

There's actually some info to be found on another forum. Sam experimented with it in 2008-2009, but didn't show the back of his teeth and didn't give the full information. Actually the one person on that forum who gave the best tips was a person named Chimera. Trying to get a hold of him via pm, but I haven't got enough posts to do that...

I do feel I have enough information to get me started. Worst case I kill my clones and we start over again, but it worked on the auto's I sprayed, they recovered and it boosted the flower formation. Just barely as because of the time lapse I noticed just in time that the plants didn't move and so weren't taking up any water from the soil. So we could also conclude that we shouldn't have our soil to wet to prevent root rot during the proces. Remember, the male's need at least 3 weeks of treatment and even so can still start producing male flowers when the treatment has stopped.

That's why I'm going to flower some females first, just to check out how long they will be producing flowers. Could be that I see the plants all keep pushing pistils until week four, then we will be treating the plants for 5 weeks instead of 3...

Kinda exciting no?

 

[Bob's Auto's]

Hey growers and blowers

Sprayed the plants with BoomBoom Spray today, just after the lights came on.

Regards,

Bob

 

[Antonio_DutchPassion]

No as I haven't tried this on a male yet. Sam the skunkman did show a picture of a plant he treated, but the quality was so bad you couldn't make out any detail of the bracts and all...

Btw, It all depends on when you start using the ethephon and the concentration. Even the pH of the solution is of importance.
I've been reading whole day, got a trial account on springer. Two days left so I'm making the best out of it. Loads of studies from the seventies until the early two thousands...

But, what I've not found and what 'we' only know on this forum is the test I did with the female auto's last time. What did we learn from that debacle?

• After using the Ethephon you need to treat your plants like clones. ie, They need a humid environment to prevent the leaves from wilting. Remember what happened with my ladies?
• You'll need a solution of 450ppm.
• The pH of the mix needs to be 4.5 as this effects the conversion of Ethephon into Ethylene. The lower the pH the longer it will stay in it's original form. It's actually the Ethylene that's burning your leaves, so the importance of the pH can't be underestimated!
• Spray the entire plant, leaves stalks even underneath the leaves, but do this one hour before lights come on. So the liquid get's enough time to soak into the plant. Do not try the soil drench as some people advice, this doesn't work or kills your plants. Don't spray only parts of the plant like Sam suggested. This will only result in a partial conversion and in my eyes would make the exercise moot.
• Start spraying one week before you switch to flower and repeat every week. Easy when you're playing with photo's of course. On an auto this would be a lot more difficult to time right.

There's actually some info to be found on another forum. Sam experimented with it in 2008-2009, but didn't show the back of his teeth and didn't give the full information. Actually the one person on that forum who gave the best tips was a person named Chimera. Trying to get a hold of him via pm, but I haven't got enough posts to do that...

I do feel I have enough information to get me started. Worst case I kill my clones and we start over again, but it worked on the auto's I sprayed, they recovered and it boosted the flower formation. Just barely as because of the time lapse I noticed just in time that the plants didn't move and so weren't taking up any water from the soil. So we could also conclude that we shouldn't have our soil to wet to prevent root rot during the proces. Remember, the male's need at least 3 weeks of treatment and even so can still start producing male flowers when the treatment has stopped.

That's why I'm going to flower some females first, just to check out how long they will be producing flowers. Could be that I see the plants all keep pushing pistils until week four, then we will be treating the plants for 5 weeks instead of 3...

Kinda exciting no?

Intriguing for sure... I wonder if it makes sense to do/check this. If it really says anything about the outcome/influence of the father
Or if it still remains best to just check the outcome of the seeds the normal way.. definitely something that could use a bit of research

Hey growers and blowers

Sprayed the plants with BoomBoom Spray today, just after the lights came on.
View attachment 1671309

View attachment 1671310

View attachment 1671311

View attachment 1671312

View attachment 1671313


Regards,

Bob

Looking good mate, nice healthy growth!

 

[Bob's Auto's]

Intriguing for sure... I wonder if it makes sense to do/check this. If it really says anything about the outcome/influence of the father
Or if it still remains best to just check the outcome of the seeds the normal way.. definitely something that could use a bit of research

It's not meant to replace the testcrosses and then testing the offspring, but rather to help in narrowing it down. A feminized male will show more then the untreated male alone. One would be able to get more information about terpenes and smells, which a male wouldn't show except for the stemrub.
In optimal conditions, ie, when done right one would be able to have some small samples to smoke and this in my mind would definitely give value to this procedure.
Of course I'll be sharing the entire process on AFN ♥

Looking good mate, nice healthy growth!

Thank you. You should see what the plants did after I sprayed them with the BoomBoom Spray. ♥
But more on this at a later date. Gotta get ready to go out today.


Regards,

Bob

 

[Bob's Auto's]

Hey growers & blowers

After the debacle of today with my order I was kinda pissed and didn't feel like posting, but the plants needed water and I had my cell phone with me, so here I am
Most of the plants are doing great. Don't even need the vaporizer anymore

E1 is looking more and more variegated to me. I wondering what's your opinion on this?

Spock is doing fine and continues to push out pointy ear leaves...

D2 has one defunkt leaf on the third node. Except for that the plant is doing fine.

B4, the one I left with the crocked leaves is looking A-ok now. So I'm glad I kept this one.

B1 is showing a bit of a purple hue between the nerves. Which isn't very visible on the picture, but I noticed it right away when checking out the plants.

These two are definitely no White Widow. I don't know what they are, except for a whole lot of Indica. If you're looking for a fair representation of the White Widow, I know where I'm not going to buy seeds

Almost measuring time. I've read "somewhere" that special specimens could be found by looking at the internodal distance. When you can apply the golden ratio to each next internodal space, a x 1,618 = b, b x 1,618 = c and so on, It get's an extra tick on the tab.

And to finish today's post, here's what you've all been waiting for...Another time lapse.
Speed = 30fps, Duration = 108 hours. Every time the screen turns dark, is when the dark period begins.

Regards,

Bob

 

[Bob's Auto's]

Hey friends

It's been thirteen days since the sprouts had emerged from the soil. And have a look at the plants now.

Yesterday I topped all but two plants at the fourth or fifth node, depending on how far they were. The two that didn't get topped weren't at the fourth node yet.

I tried to FIM the tops off, but that technique hasn't worked for me yet. So we'll just have to see what happens in the coming days.

This thread is just two weeks old and already has got over 1K views. I whish to thank all of you for following along

The variegated is keeping up with the spots on the new leaves. And sitting right next to Spock showed me the similarity in de serrations on the leave edges. I've been searching the web for old pictures of the White Widow plant and found some interesting details. Details I'm now looking for in these plants...

Spock's pointy ears are the biggest in all the plants which show the pointy serrations. But unlike it's neighbor the variegated one, isn't showing the lighter spots.
I did feel the plants were showing a bit of yellowing and because of the fact I can't repot before the light has arrived I gave the plants some water. Mixed into the water I added a teaspoon of Magnesium Sulphate, Calcium Nitrate and Monopotassium Phosphate. All three are directly absorbable by the plants, but aren't exactly "Organic".

Most of the plants are doing fine though. They're healthy and growing like their life depended on it.

When I Fimmed or Topped the plants I took each and every one of the out the tent, so they aren't in the same position as before. I also removed the vaporizer as the plants are creating the humid environment all by themselves. Removing the vaporizer also gave the plants a tiny bit more room for expanse.

Earlier I was discussing the leaves' serrations...well this plant looks like the old photo's I could find. The veins also run to the tips of each 'tooth', but not before deviating slightly to the 'dip' of the serrations.

A side shot to show the height of the canopy. Some plants are clearly growing faster and are on top of the smaller one's...For now this isn't an issue, but if the plants have reached this height in only 13 days and I have to wait another two weeks before the light arrives I think I'm screwed.

Today I'm not gonna run a time lapse. Have to leave in a minute to go to the vet with our dog. He started reacting drunk, shaking his head side to side an hour or two ago. The missus called the vet on call-duty for the second time as we got the advice to wait an hour and see what happens, and finally we can come by in half an hour. Whish us luck!!


Regards,

Bob