I'll be honest man, from the looks of those leaves she isn't hurting for food. I still see some signs of overfeeding on AWW 1 & 2. You see those leaves are still dipping on the edges and the tips are burned from excess nutes/salts. If I did anything, I would hit them with a good dose of ph'd water to try and get some of the build up out. It could be that you have a little lockout from excess build up in the soil. Don't go overboard with it and flush her, but if I were to do anything I would just water her and get about 50% runoff out and see how she responds. If she perks up in a day or two you will know you helped.
Dutch Passion Blue AutoMazar, Auto White Widow and others..
- Thread starter fweedom
- Start date
Thanks for stopping by to help me out A4, im about to post some pics in a minute so you can see her right now...i havent watered her yet, i thought id put some pics up so she can be seen in her current state ...stay tuned man pics should be up in about 10 minutes if u wanna check her out :High 5:
Here she is on day 58.
heres some close ups of the discoloration....
the flash kinda hides the brown spots on the yellow leaves so this shot was took without the flash...
my main concern is making sure she has enough nutes in her to finish strong...shes already at day 58 but i think she will go 80+ days. she still needs to put on weight and all the hairs are still pretty much white... she was on veg nutes longer than my other white widow so i think this one will go an extra week or two. i just dont want all the leaves to die off before she gets a chance to get to her full potential
:smokebuds:
heres some close ups of the discoloration....
the flash kinda hides the brown spots on the yellow leaves so this shot was took without the flash...
my main concern is making sure she has enough nutes in her to finish strong...shes already at day 58 but i think she will go 80+ days. she still needs to put on weight and all the hairs are still pretty much white... she was on veg nutes longer than my other white widow so i think this one will go an extra week or two. i just dont want all the leaves to die off before she gets a chance to get to her full potential
:smokebuds:
I see what you are saying now, I can see the entire plant much better. That looks like potassium deficiency. I may have asked you this in the past, I don't remember, I know you use 
but did you get the Sledgehammer with it as well? Here is the thing, potassium is normally available but can be locked out by high salt content in the soil. With all the problems you had early on with too much N, and from the looks of the plant it is still pretty much in that same state. I am thinking you may still have a high salt build up in your soil. I don't use but a buddy of mine on here does and he swears by using sledgehammer a few times during his grow to keep lockout from occurring. It flushes the excess salts out of your medium. I would consider getting some of that post haste and then adding your nutrients behind it. Below is snippet something I pasted the other day, you may find it helpful.
Technical Information: Potassium helps combine sugars, starches, and carbohydrates, which is essential to growth by cell division. It increases the chlorophyll in the foliage and helps to regulate the stomata openings so plants make better use of the light and air. Potassium is essential in the accumulation and translocation of carbohydrates. It is necessary to make the proteins that augment the oil content and improve the flavour in cannabis plants. It also encourages strong root growth and is associated with disease resistance and water intake.
Deficiency: Potassium-starved plants initially appear healthy. Deficient plants are susceptible to disease. Symptoms include the following: older leaves(first tips and margins, followed by whole leaves) develops spots, turn dark yellow, and die. Stems often become weak and sometimes brittle. Potassium is usually present in the soil, but it is locked in by high salinity. First, leach the toxic salt out of the soil and then apply a complete N-P-K fertilizer. Potassium deficiency causes the internal temperature and the foliage to climb and the proteins cells to burn and degrade. Evapouration is normally highest on the leaf edges, and that's where the burning takes place.
Progression of the deficiency:
- Plants appear healthy with dark green foliage.
- The leaves loose their luster.
- Branching may increase, but the branches are weak and scrawny.
- Leaf margins turn grey and progress to a rusty-brown colour. and then curl up and die.
- Yellowing of the older leaves is accompanied by rust-coloured blotches.
- The leaves curl up, rot sets in, and the older leaves drop.
- The flowering is retarded and greatly diminished.
Treat deficiency of potassium by fertilizing with a complete N-P-K fertilizer. Occassionally, a grower will add potassium directly to the nutrient solution. Organic growers add potassium in the forum of soluble potash(wood ashes) mixed with water. Be careful when using wood ash, the pH is normally above 10. Use a pH-lowering to bring the pH to around 6.5 before application. Foliar feeding to cure a potassium deficiency is not recommended.
but did you get the Sledgehammer with it as well? Here is the thing, potassium is normally available but can be locked out by high salt content in the soil. With all the problems you had early on with too much N, and from the looks of the plant it is still pretty much in that same state. I am thinking you may still have a high salt build up in your soil. I don't use but a buddy of mine on here does and he swears by using sledgehammer a few times during his grow to keep lockout from occurring. It flushes the excess salts out of your medium. I would consider getting some of that post haste and then adding your nutrients behind it. Below is snippet something I pasted the other day, you may find it helpful.Technical Information: Potassium helps combine sugars, starches, and carbohydrates, which is essential to growth by cell division. It increases the chlorophyll in the foliage and helps to regulate the stomata openings so plants make better use of the light and air. Potassium is essential in the accumulation and translocation of carbohydrates. It is necessary to make the proteins that augment the oil content and improve the flavour in cannabis plants. It also encourages strong root growth and is associated with disease resistance and water intake.
Deficiency: Potassium-starved plants initially appear healthy. Deficient plants are susceptible to disease. Symptoms include the following: older leaves(first tips and margins, followed by whole leaves) develops spots, turn dark yellow, and die. Stems often become weak and sometimes brittle. Potassium is usually present in the soil, but it is locked in by high salinity. First, leach the toxic salt out of the soil and then apply a complete N-P-K fertilizer. Potassium deficiency causes the internal temperature and the foliage to climb and the proteins cells to burn and degrade. Evapouration is normally highest on the leaf edges, and that's where the burning takes place.
Progression of the deficiency:
- Plants appear healthy with dark green foliage.
- The leaves loose their luster.
- Branching may increase, but the branches are weak and scrawny.
- Leaf margins turn grey and progress to a rusty-brown colour. and then curl up and die.
- Yellowing of the older leaves is accompanied by rust-coloured blotches.
- The leaves curl up, rot sets in, and the older leaves drop.
- The flowering is retarded and greatly diminished.
Treat deficiency of potassium by fertilizing with a complete N-P-K fertilizer. Occassionally, a grower will add potassium directly to the nutrient solution. Organic growers add potassium in the forum of soluble potash(wood ashes) mixed with water. Be careful when using wood ash, the pH is normally above 10. Use a pH-lowering to bring the pH to around 6.5 before application. Foliar feeding to cure a potassium deficiency is not recommended.
I see what you are saying now, I can see the entire plant much better. That looks like potassium deficiency. I may have asked you this in the past, I don't remember, I know you use
Technical Information: Potassium helps combine sugars, starches, and carbohydrates, which is essential to growth by cell division. It increases the chlorophyll in the foliage and helps to regulate the stomata openings so plants make better use of the light and air. Potassium is essential in the accumulation and translocation of carbohydrates. It is necessary to make the proteins that augment the oil content and improve the flavour in cannabis plants. It also encourages strong root growth and is associated with disease resistance and water intake.
Deficiency: Potassium-starved plants initially appear healthy. Deficient plants are susceptible to disease. Symptoms include the following: older leaves(first tips and margins, followed by whole leaves) develops spots, turn dark yellow, and die. Stems often become weak and sometimes brittle. Potassium is usually present in the soil, but it is locked in by high salinity. First, leach the toxic salt out of the soil and then apply a complete N-P-K fertilizer. Potassium deficiency causes the internal temperature and the foliage to climb and the proteins cells to burn and degrade. Evapouration is normally highest on the leaf edges, and that's where the burning takes place.
Progression of the deficiency:
- Plants appear healthy with dark green foliage.
- The leaves loose their luster.
- Branching may increase, but the branches are weak and scrawny.
- Leaf margins turn grey and progress to a rusty-brown colour. and then curl up and die.
- Yellowing of the older leaves is accompanied by rust-coloured blotches.
- The leaves curl up, rot sets in, and the older leaves drop.
- The flowering is retarded and greatly diminished.
Treat deficiency of potassium by fertilizing with a complete N-P-K fertilizer. Occassionally, a grower will add potassium directly to the nutrient solution. Organic growers add potassium in the forum of soluble potash(wood ashes) mixed with water. Be careful when using wood ash, the pH is normally above 10. Use a pH-lowering to bring the pH to around 6.5 before application. Foliar feeding to cure a potassium deficiency is not recommended.
thats some good info man i appreciate it...and no i dont own any Sledgehammer but ill pick some up for the next run forsure. :thumbs:
i noticed it says "The flowering is retarded and greatly diminished" which is exactly what i dont want to happen. Since im at day 58 already do you think i should just give her a feeding of plain water tonight to wash out some salts and then just a few more feedings of bloom nutes before the final flush.... or since im nearing the end should i just keep feeding the bloom nutes until the final flush? If i give her plain water tonight at day 58 to wash out the salts would that further starve her cause i washed out all the potassium or would that just stop the lockout and make potassium available? :smokebuds:
for helping me with all my questions bro :stylez rasta smoke:Yeah, I don't think she is underfed as far as nutrients in general but maybe she isn't getting all of what she needs with the salt build up in the soil. Considering you don't have the sledgehammer, if it were me I would do this. You have 4 gallon pots, I would mix up 6 gallons for each pot of 1tspoon per gallon TigerBloom and 3 tspoon per gallon Big Bloom. The Big bloom has almost no N and a lot of rock phosphate so go full strength with it. The Tiger Bloom has some N so I wouldn't go quite as heavy. So, pour the entire 6 gallons through each pot. SLOWLY AND EVENLY. In other words, take your time and try and let it really seap through all parts of the pot. It would be like a semi flush. Adding the nutrients will actually flush the salts out better than pure water and add back nutes in the proper range that you need. The thing is that you want the liquid to go through the soil slowly to allow time for it to leach the salts out so don't just dump it in there. Take your time and let it work, then add more. I put the schedule link down there as well, I am sure you have it but just in case you didn't. If you decide to try that, shoot me a pm in a few days and let me know how it worked. I would hope that within 24-36 hours you will see the tips of those plants perk back up.
http://foxfarmfertilizer.com/images/pdf/SoilENG.pdf
http://foxfarmfertilizer.com/images/pdf/SoilENG.pdf
thanks for the tips bro...you dont think i should just do 1/2 teaspoon of tiger bloom per gallon instead of 1 teaspoon? i know its real hot and i dont want to burn them...right now i only got 2 gallons of distilled water so what i can do is put 4 tablespoons of big bloom and 1/2 teaspoon (or 1 teaspoon ) of tiger bloom into each jug and water them with the whole 2 gallons..would those 2 gallons be enough to flush out the salts and plus provide the potassium or do i need to get 4 more gallons :smokebuds:
If you feel more comfortable with 1/2, then do 1/2 but for sure you need to use 6 gallons on each pot for a total of 12 gallons. I know that sounds like a lot but they need to get flushed. If you don't want to buy distilled water, if your tap water is completely jacked up ph wise, then use tap water and boil it for 20 minutes. That would be long enough to get the chlorine out. Of course, let it cool down before you water them. 2 gallons will not be even close enough.
