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Hello fellow biotabers,
I just finished my starter kit, overall I have to say I am satisfied by biotabs performance and even though Im new in the hobby and like to experiment, for obvious reasons I'm relactant to switch to bottle nutrients regime, buying ready supersoil is not an option around here so I want to continue using biotabs in the future.
Even though I am satisfied with biotabs, I did encounter problems. Both Calcium and Magnesium deficiencies, which I solved by adding epsom salts in the water and top dressed with more dolomite lime. The deficiencies appeared aggressively very early during week 1-2, at the time I had not even put the tab in the ground yet or watered with bactrex+orgatrex (I planted staight into final pot so I planned on doing it on week 3 so they dont nute burn).I am amazed how not everyone is having calmag issues, perhaps it's because most of you are using coco while I am using peat, and Im using quantum board leds not hps.
Which brings me to my last point and question. I ph'ed my plain sphangum peat moss (by adding distilled water in a small sample) and it showed PH 4.55 which was expected. I PH'ed my pots which are a mixture of 60% peat 40% perlite startrex and mycotrex according to biotabs manual and some added dolomite lime. The result was an average of PH 6.5-7.5 which is slightly acidic as the ladies like it. My question is; did the pot PH rise because of the added dolomite lime? If so, for the next run should I be checking the medium PH before filling the pots and keep adding dolomite lime to the mix until I'm at the ideal PH level?
Also, I checked the runoff as well because Im a nerd, and to my surprice it's mostly similar or higher PH. I expected it lower since the pot sample was taken from the first inch of soil where the extra added lime was. I expected the runoff PH to drop since it was mixed with less alcaline soil further down the pot.
...and my last question...what is this 'just add water' strategy??? It even replaced the basic manual for a while in the website. I imagine lots of people were pissed (myself included) after buying the starter kit, looking for the directions online only to see they have to add silicium flash which is not part of the kit. If its some marketing strategy to promote the silicium flash product then that was not the most honest way to do it. Some people are only using bactrex + tabs with great results. To anyone contemplating whether to buy silicium flash I would say sure go ahead but my stems are thickkk just by using the starter kit products. I would however suggest foliar sprays with boom boom spray-you can see the results within a few hours the ladies are loving it.
I am just sharing the modest experience I acquired until now, I apologize if the structure of the post is not cohesive and at times sounded like a rant.I just want to nail down that perfect biotab recipe so I can keep using them and improve my grows in the years to come
My advice to you is simple,...drop the peat and switch to soil. The complications of using peat and its ph values don't allow for proper buffering time in the medium which just leads to all kinds of issues.
Check out my Grow in my sig. you will see how I cleared up all the issues everyone had been having with the system.
Find a light soil mix, the best is Bio Bizz light, then add on from there. Check out my Grow and you will see! And don't worry about detail...I go through every detail you can imagine.
Have fun! Biotab system with a little tweaking is awesome!