Live Stoners Australian Growers Thread

have you transitioned to fully Bloom nutes now? What's your water source? If tap, do you know it's hardness value (ppm's) from a TDS meter, or an EC value? In-pot pH is what we really need, and since you're using synthetics, they tend to be rather acidic themselves,... where this is going is in order to correct this, we need to determine if you have a simple lack-of defc. happening, or a pH lock-out of nutrients, and P is one that goes pretty fast under overly acidic conditions,... the former is an easy fix: just up the dosage and frequency some.... If the latter, adding more nutes will make matter even worse! here's a link to an improved run-off pH testing and calculation-( https://www.autoflower.org/threads/...-testing-and-ph-estimation.41733/#post-928975 ) .... unless you have a quality soil pH probe which tests directly-- always the best way, but only if it's a decent meter, not one of those cheapie skinny-ass probes! (the Accurate 8 is a good model for the $$),... This is why I dislike 3-part systems too, with the Micro carrying most of the micronutrients in it, but also the damn N as well,... it's impossible to make a higher PK balance without risking some other defciency by eliminating the Micro,... To be honest, her bud building is compromised already, but you might as well stay the course anyway!

The water here is hard. We get calcium build up everywhere. And yes I transitioned to bloom nutes. I actually fed her with only Flora Bloom the last feeding and the plant seemed to look better. Not sure if this is true or just wishful thinking on my behalf.
 
I should correct my PH runoff readings using the calculation @Waira linked to.

Water = 6.5
Runoff = 5.1
Difference = 6.5 - 5.1 = 1.4

Soil PH = 5.1 - 1.4 = 3.7

Shitsville.
 
Ah, this is why I asked for more pics! You have a Ca defc. going too (finer spotting that seems to hug the veins), but it can also cause broader patches of necrosis like P defc. does,... That pH is for sure locking out P,... Ca isn't that badly affected by low pH.. check out this chart on nutrient availabilty over pH range; the bar width indicates relative availability at that given pH
soil pH.jpg


..... wow, that is some stubborn acidity! And with water that's hard, full of pH buffering minerals, it's weirdly resistant in fact,... * new post spotted*--- okay, this is why I hate the run-off method in general, but the linked one helps address some of the inaccuracies, if done right,... If that was the true in-pot pH, the plant would be- :poof: :nono: :rofl:, but for sure, it's way off,... Note in that method, the final pour uses RO or distilled water, because adding more pH adjusted water will skew results,... one is trying to get a snap-shot of the soils pH in there,... I can see why P defc. is happening too, with all the flushing,.. usually, the last pour on that includes pH adjusted weak nutes,... Oh, dolomite is the slowest acting of all limes, it just isn't going to break down and react fast enough (a better choice for longer term pH control and Ca.Mg supplementing),...plus sitting at the surface zone doesn't do a thing for what's below,...so that's why the pH didn't improve,...
Have you calibrated you meter lately? they can fall out easily sometimes,...
 
Ah, this is why I asked for more pics! You have a Ca defc. going too (finer spotting that seems to hug the veins), but it can also cause broader patches of necrosis like P defc. does,... That pH is for sure locking out P,... Ca isn't that badly affected by low pH.. check out this chart on nutrient availabilty over pH range; the bar width indicates relative availability at that given pH View attachment 672170

..... wow, that is some stubborn acidity! And with water that's hard, full of pH buffering minerals, it's weirdly resistant in fact,... * new post spotted*--- okay, this is why I hate the run-off method in general, but the linked one helps address some of the inaccuracies, if done right,... If that was the true in-pot pH, the plant would be- :poof: :nono: :rofl:, but for sure, it's way off,... Note in that method, the final pour uses RO or distilled water, because adding more pH adjusted water will skew results,... one is trying to get a snap-shot of the soils pH in there,... I can see why P defc. is happening too, with all the flushing,.. usually, the last pour on that includes pH adjusted weak nutes,... Oh, dolomite is the slowest acting of all limes, it just isn't going to break down and react fast enough (a better choice for longer term pH control and Ca.Mg supplementing),...plus sitting at the surface zone doesn't do a thing for what's below,...so that's why the pH didn't improve,...
Have you calibrated you meter lately? they can fall out easily sometimes,...
Firstly thanks heaps for taking the time to look at my plant and give advise. Huge help.

I calibrated my meter on Sunday before I started testing the PH. I do have some distilled water that I can use to follow the method exactly and get a reading. But I thought a rough calculation of soil PH would be at least an indication of where I am. I suppose my next course of action is to just let this plant run out its life and put my energy into the seedling.
 
Ah - osmocote - 4 months pre feeding -- That is your first problem , all such ready made soil is junk , sorry to say , and we do not have the same type of pre made soil as in the USA . But if you build a soil bin and leave it out so LOTS of rain gets on it , it will flush the crap out of it . Then rebuild it . The problem with Bunnings type of soil , you have no idea what the NPK is .With your low PH of the soil , we have here a product call eco-flo dolomite -- 35 % wv Calcium-12wv Magnesium works very well and fast acting to help balance the soil PH . Also above 30 c will slow the growth down heaps . Now watering once a week I believe is not a good sign , Due to the water crystals , I think you will find your pot is water logged , I have found a plant that size is a least every 3 days , Wet feet will slow it down . [ 18 ltr ] pot ? --- Ps -- soil first -- :thumbsup:
 
:pass:..you're welcome mate! yeah, repeated "water boarding" of the plant can have it's own negative effects! :rofl: Still, it'll be good practice to keep on it if you chose, just have to wait for her to dry out some,... Some tips: next planting, check the soil pH first, right out of the bag, maybe even switch brands,... dolomite should be added before planting, preferably a couple weeks ahead,... I think a couple T/gal soil is plenty,... Maybe try a new fert's line too? Flora really is better for hydro, despite what they say IMO,...Or look into a P-K booster, and a Ca-Mg supplement,... Holler when you get results from testing and we'll see,.... :cheers:
 
Bloom Cal Mag 5.2 . 0.0
bloom_cal_1_ltr.JPG

General Hydroponics 1.0.0
NRT3010.jpg
I use both at different times .
Bloom_rendered_bottles_PK.jpg
I am very happy with this .
 
:doh: my bad! I didn't read the first page- :doh: :baked: - dang Indica! ... So, are there actual nute beads in there? Auto's do tend to hate that,... Hec', have you found that particular dolomite to be that fast acting? Some tinkered formulations do have some rapid breakdown to them,...
 
...I like the CaliMagic because of it's low N content, vs the others... plus, what's in the Flora! With the acidity, I'd like to see more carbonate sourced Ca-Mg used,.. the others have nitrates...

:smoking: Cheers Hec', thank you helping brudda! .... I'm toast now, see y'all later,...:sleeping:
 
@hecno could you recommend a soil? I read through your grow diaries and I saw that you make your own soil, but do you know of one I can get that not as acidic? I'm going the transplant my seedling. I know it's not ideal but it might be better than leaving it where it is.

Thanks for the advice you've given me already too.
 
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