Live Stoner Chat Anybody grow like Mr. Canucks Grow from YouTube?

Gaia Green is available in USA and here in Illinois. I used his method on two plants I used Nectar #4 soil and pastuerized worm castings. I added Calcium and Magnesium during grow and Nectar for the gods Gauna during bloom. I had two Mephisto 24 carat, in 3 gal they are at day 72. The one is a 24 carat and is doing great , especially due to the fact that it was a runt seedling. The second ended up not being a 24 carat, something from there more sativa plants. I would normally have grown it in 5gal. I had problems develop I believe from a lack of nutes. I should have added more sooner., The problem is they take time to get in the soil. I was testing and did not want to go off course. I am going to try it again next grow vs Greengro. Dr earth is nothing like either of these. Both Gaia and Greengro are powdered very fine powder. I am adding Dr earth to my veggie plots right now so it can decompose over the winter. I want to go to an easy system, sometimes I don't have as much time in the morning as I like so I don't want to mix up a bunch of nutes.
 
I tried this system with Dr Earth a few years back. I mixed their bloom and base nutrients and crushed it a little finer in a coffee grinder. It worked out fairly well.

My issue is why not just mix soil use coco instead of peat if that is your thing and you just water. No need for PH and if your feeling really fancy you can just re amend and use the soil again. I watched one of his videos where he pulls all the roots out and reamends. That's a lot of work especially considering how cheap coco is.

I cant remember what I ran but it was photo clones and there wasn't much difference over my soil mix in a side by side. I did think it was a neat concept though.
 
I tried this system with Dr Earth a few years back. I mixed their bloom and base nutrients and crushed it a little finer in a coffee grinder. It worked out fairly well.

My issue is why not just mix soil use coco instead of peat if that is your thing and you just water. No need for PH and if your feeling really fancy you can just re amend and use the soil again. I watched one of his videos where he pulls all the roots out and reamends. That's a lot of work especially considering how cheap coco is.

I cant remember what I ran but it was photo clones and there wasn't much difference over my soil mix in a side by side. I did think it was a neat concept though.
There are some that think the soil gets better every use with additional organics locked in and broken down for better absorption. I don't know but I am using a lot of soil and coco and it adds up.
I am going to use some Greengro on my new grow for some of the plants. Hate to count on a new product for a whole run. I had one plant on Gaia do very well and the other I think ran out of food before I could get it fed. I was able to recover it but it did not make things simpler as I was looking to do. One plant that grew well was right on yield for using A.N. As far as using coco vs soil I have a bag sitting there and might try it. I try not to introduce to many variables at one time or you can't make head nor tails of what worked.
 
There are some that think the soil gets better every use with additional organics locked in and broken down for better absorption. I don't know but I am using a lot of soil and coco and it adds up.
I am going to use some Greengro on my new grow for some of the plants. Hate to count on a new product for a whole run. I had one plant on Gaia do very well and the other I think ran out of food before I could get it fed. I was able to recover it but it did not make things simpler as I was looking to do. One plant that grew well was right on yield for using A.N. As far as using coco vs soil I have a bag sitting there and might try it. I try not to introduce to many variables at one time or you can't make head nor tails of what worked.
I usually use peat as it has better cation exchange than coco in organics. With soil I never have a deficiency with coco some times I do. Now coco in my soil mix has always been helpful with water retention for awhile I ran 1/3 aeration 1/3 compost 1/6 peat 1/6 coco and that worked very well. I am on my 5th or 6th run with that mix on 8 10 gallons and all I amend with is 3-4 cups of BAS nutrient blend. Every now and then I will give them some recharge. If she is real hungry I will give her BOS build a bloom in flower. Pretty easy set up.

Of course that is what works for me. I always ask when I see people messing with this idea on what there goal is. Before I went organic I always ran coco, grew in it for years. Using organics in straight coco works but is time consuming and a hassle. If you are going to use coco and PH water, feed it megacrop and grow monsters. Cocos biggest attribute is with nutrient feeds it can constantly uptake food. Going organic and slowing it down to me is the equivalent of buying a Ferrari and never driving over 20 mph.

I do like your approach that is how I developed my grow style one thing at a time over a very long stretch. I was just trying to see where people were trying to take this.

Okay enough ramblings from an a crazy old man.
 
I do EXACT SAME, but with Dr Earth and with Mother Earth 70/30 Coco perlite.

Amend medium with Dr earth all purpose, Dr e. veg (all purpose has zero calcium, use the veg in conjunction), & Flower Girl, EWC. (About 60/40). I feed autos Bloom (Dr E flier girl), in higher ratios, than most, get buds faster, grow buds bigger

Plant into medium, water daily 6.5ph.
End of week 2 a gentle tea (EWC, molasses, alfalfa, Kelp),
End of week 3 topdress 40/60 veg/flower girl.

Week 5 stronger tea same recipe unless seeing deficiency, might add bat guano or Seabird crap.

End week 6 Topdress 90% Flower Girl 10% Veg

Week 8 Good solid tea same ingredients. Maybe oyster shell dust if needed.

If they are going 2-4 more weeks, I'll do a tea with flower girl, Alfalfa, kelp, molasses. That's my last feed, and that's ONLY if they need longer to go.

7 day hardcore flush, 36 he Dark period, Clip em, hang em, trim em. Smoke em!!!

KEEP IN MIND......LESS IS BETTER!!!!! Stick to your Fertilizers...only use 2-3-4 nutrients (kelp, alfalfa, EWC, Molasses). The more stuff, and different stuff you feed, you'll run into issues you don't know how to fix.

Remember, fertilizer and nutrients are like priority 4-6.
In Order of Importance
1. Buy HIGH QUALITY SEEDS!!!!!!
2. Buy a light that fits the current size tent! Don't try to run 200 watts from the wall in a 4*4 tent!!!
3. Air Circulation!!!! Old air out sucking fresh air in (with exhaust and small fans in tent)
4. Grow Room Conditions!!! Humidity and Temp!!!
5. Dechlorinated water correct PH
6. Fertilizers.
7. Nutrients.

REMEMBER. --- God had been growing weed on this country for 1,000s of years, they did great without compost and ph or ppm meters!!!

Good seeds, good light, the right conditions....you can grow killer herb as long as those 3 things are perfect

Do 3 things PERFECT, not 7 things just "ok". Make it easy, stick to basics.
.no 2 grow setups are the same! This is a guide
 
So, I am going to try this method… I have a peat based soil I plan on using, this is what’s in it
982394AB-A4E0-4CED-BF84-FAFB3080AD9E.jpeg

So my question is am I going to be able to use this and use mr canucks style with dr earth 444 and 394 at prescribed amounts or will I have to make an adjustment? Anyone on here have a answer? BTW this will be for photoperiod plants…
 
I tell you what I think. You are just adding more variability by using soil that seems to be synthetic nutrient enhanced.
With Dr earth or Gaia or Greengro, you are basically growing organically. Plus when you have slow-release polymer coat chemicals it is hard to judge their impact on the rate of fertigation. You are possibly interfering with the mycos, bacteria, and enzymes that you are relying on to break down the organic fertilizer. It is one more variable to worry about. Trust me that you want as few unknown variables as possible. because if you have a problem you are going to wonder what caused it. Now it may work for you and be fine but I would not take a chance.
 
I tell you what I think. You are just adding more variability by using soil that seems to be synthetic nutrient enhanced.
With Dr earth or Gaia or Greengro, you are basically growing organically. Plus when you have slow-release polymer coat chemicals it is hard to judge their impact on the rate of fertigation. You are possibly interfering with the mycos, bacteria, and enzymes that you are relying on to break down the organic fertilizer. It is one more variable to worry about. Trust me that you want as few unknown variables as possible. because if you have a problem you are going to wonder what caused it. Now it may work for you and be fine but I would not take a chance.
Ok, was wondering that. Thank you!
 
I've been watching this guy and can't believe how easy his grow method is and he seems to get solid results. Basically he grows in coco mixed with a little perlite and 4tbs of 4-4-4 from Gaia Green per gallon and just waters for the first month. Then all he does is top dress with a mixture of 4-4-4 and 2-8-4 every 3 weeks or so, nothing else.

Every other thing I see seems to require a dozen ingredients to start or to be feed throughout the grow and this just seems too good to be true, but he swears by it. I searched the forum and couldn't find anyone bashing him and only a few people talking about him.

p.s Gaia Green seems to only be readily available in Canada, Dr. Earth seems to be the US equivalent.
I use natural dry amendments with all of my coco grows. Very simple and easy! Just top dress the plants every 14-20 days and water. Gaia Green was hard to get here in the states, so I’ve been using Down to Earth amendments with great success.
Ok, was wondering that. Thank you!
I’ve been growing with natural dry amendments with all my coco grows for years. It was hard to get here in the states, so I started using the Down To Earth line and haven’t looked back. They have a
4-4-4 for vegetative growth and a. 4-8-4 for flowering. They also have many other dry amendments in there line that Gaia Green doesn’t have. It’s also very easy to get and very inexpensive. Amazon even sells the stuff.
 
Wk 1-3 - I use Happy Frog. Amend with Down to Earth Bat Guano, and sprinkle Arbico Organics Mycorrhizal Fungi on the surface.
Water PH 6.5

Wk 4-finish - On week 4. Amend sparingly with either Bone Meal, Dolomite, or Azomite. Generously with Dr. Earth Flower Girl, and again sprinkle with Myco. And finally 6.0-6.3 PH'd water until finish. Adding 1/8 teaspoon per gallon, NPK Bloom Microbes at wk 5. And 1/8 p/g teaspoon of NPK Silica at wk 5, and 6 if I haven't used Azomite.

Combined with the correct airflow, humidity, and the correct PAR and it's an easy win.
 
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