New Grower 5x5 Tent, 1000w HPS, 9 Plants (Mephisto)

Is there any that can test both the feed and soil ph? So I won't have to buy 2.
If you just get a liquid tester (typically seen in journals) you can test the feed and run off.

Once you get more familiar reading your soil, you find you no longer will use the pH meter. Only in those, "ahh shit!" moments. ;)
 
So this mix would for preventing any future cal-mag issues? Or just to get the soil more biologically active once I do fix the cal-mag issues?
Well both, but they amendments will eventually be used up, and you would need to apply more. The castings are single handily the best thing any organics soil can have. If you are able to brew a ACT/AACT this would super charge your soil. You can use casting teas for every feeding if you want to, but it is not needed, BUT it will NEVER harm you plants if made properly.

As the plant progresses through life you can change the amendment to different elements like K-P for mid-life and flowering. I suggest mixing the chosen amendments (fish bone, alfalfa, ect) in with worm casting as it will help distribute them evenly, and reduce the chance of pockets forming and burning the plant.

Organic soil is easy to maintain, but it can be a bit of a bumpy ride till you get it dialed in.

Can you list the mixture and amounts of the amendments used for your soil, or is there a specific recipe you followed? Also, how long did the soil "cook" (decompose) before you used it. You might want to do an enzyme feed to kick start digestion of amendments.
 
If you just get a liquid tester (typically seen in journals) you can test the feed and run off.

Once you get more familiar reading your soil, you find you no longer will use the pH meter. Only in those, "ahh shit!" moments. ;)
So I can get away with just testing the feed and run off? Do you know what ph both should be at?
 
Well both, but they amendments will eventually be used up, and you would need to apply more. The castings are single handily the best thing any organics soil can have. If you are able to brew a ACT/AACT this would super charge your soil. You can use casting teas for every feeding if you want to, but it is not needed, BUT it will NEVER harm you plants if made properly.

As the plant progresses through life you can change the amendment to different elements like K-P for mid-life and flowering. I suggest mixing the chosen amendments (fish bone, alfalfa, ect) in with worm casting as it will help distribute them evenly, and reduce the chance of pockets forming and burning the plant.

Organic soil is easy to maintain, but it can be a bit of a bumpy ride till you get it dialed in.

Can you list the mixture and amounts of the amendments used for your soil, or is there a specific recipe you followed? Also, how long did the soil "cook" (decompose) before you used it. You might want to do an enzyme feed to kick start digestion of amendments.
I'm using GBD's super soil mix, in his instructions he doesn't mention cooking the soil. I also have my recipe details in the original post.
https://www.autoflower.org/threads/gbds-supersoil-supertrial.41581/
 
For sure man, I appreciate all the help!
Not a problem brother, I'm always down for some dirty talk. I have only grown organic, and started on super soil and have had many ups and downs. Most of my experience comes from those down times. ;) One of these days you'll come by a problem/question you can help with, just pass that help on and keep the good vibe flowing is all I ask in return.

I'm using GBD's super soil mix, in his instructions he doesn't mention cooking the soil. I also have my recipe details in the original post.
https://www.autoflower.org/threads/gbds-supersoil-supertrial.41581/
I'm not familiar with GBD's soil mix. The images on the link did not load, and I did not see a recipe. Nothing personal, but I'm not going to scour the whole thread for it. Can you just post it here. It could also help others give suggestions now, and later.

So I can get away with just testing the feed and run off? Do you know what ph both should be at?
That's a bit of a loaded question. In short, yes you can just ph them both, and keep it in the proper range. I would take the opportunity to study your soil, and see what could be modified to help prevent pH swing in the future. Then you could just leave the pH pen in the junk drawer where it belongs. ;)

Remember, just cause it worked for Joe Blow, it may give you different results. Same thing can be said for anything I tell you. The great thing about organics is there are many ways to get the results you'd like. It just depends how much work/research you are willing to do.

So the soil should be between 6.3-6.5? What about the water being fed and the run off water?
If you follow the link I posted on checking run off it will explain how to figure out the soil ph. Unless you have a soil pH probe, the run off is how you can check the pH.

When/if I pH my feed/water I do 5.9-6.1 in veg, and 6.3-6.5 in flower, but again with a "happy soil" the pH will regulate according to the plant needs.

A molasses feeding, say bi-weekly to monthly, will/should provide you with all the cal/mag you need. Some strains will want more cal/mag, but in general it should be just fine. I have Oily-cann by Earth Juice. It is a cal/mag with humic acids and zero nitrogen. I personally use it in a foliar spray about twice a week. (I foliar feed something every day, sometimes twice a day, sometimes just water) Foliar feeding is an easy and fast way to deliver micro nutrients, plus it gives the plant some physical stimulation (rain). I'll throw about anything in a spray bottle with a VERY light mix and give it a shot at least once.My current garden are photos that have been vegging for about 9-10 weeks, and between my soil, and sprays I have not gave them any cal/mag in the root zone. I also use LED which suck calcium out of the plants. (not sure why though)
 
Not a problem brother, I'm always down for some dirty talk. I have only grown organic, and started on super soil and have had many ups and downs. Most of my experience comes from those down times. ;) One of these days you'll come by a problem/question you can help with, just pass that help on and keep the good vibe flowing is all I ask in return.


I'm not familiar with GBD's soil mix. The images on the link did not load, and I did not see a recipe. Nothing personal, but I'm not going to scour the whole thread for it. Can you just post it here. It could also help others give suggestions now, and later.


That's a bit of a loaded question. In short, yes you can just ph them both, and keep it in the proper range. I would take the opportunity to study your soil, and see what could be modified to help prevent pH swing in the future. Then you could just leave the pH pen in the junk drawer where it belongs. ;)

Remember, just cause it worked for Joe Blow, it may give you different results. Same thing can be said for anything I tell you. The great thing about organics is there are many ways to get the results you'd like. It just depends how much work/research you are willing to do.


If you follow the link I posted on checking run off it will explain how to figure out the soil ph. Unless you have a soil pH probe, the run off is how you can check the pH.

When/if I pH my feed/water I do 5.9-6.1 in veg, and 6.3-6.5 in flower, but again with a "happy soil" the pH will regulate according to the plant needs.

A molasses feeding, say bi-weekly to monthly, will/should provide you with all the cal/mag you need. Some strains will want more cal/mag, but in general it should be just fine. I have Oily-cann by Earth Juice. It is a cal/mag with humic acids and zero nitrogen. I personally use it in a foliar spray about twice a week. (I foliar feed something every day, sometimes twice a day, sometimes just water) Foliar feeding is an easy and fast way to deliver micro nutrients, plus it gives the plant some physical stimulation (rain). I'll throw about anything in a spray bottle with a VERY light mix and give it a shot at least once.My current garden are photos that have been vegging for about 9-10 weeks, and between my soil, and sprays I have not gave them any cal/mag in the root zone. I also use LED which suck calcium out of the plants. (not sure why though)

GBD's super soil mix is mephistos super soil mix.

http://mephistogenetics.com/supersoil-for-autos.html

(This mix was created for a simple, water only method of growing superb organic buds. After years of testing we are finally ready to release this organic, full spectrum N-P-K mix for your ease growing pleasure. Featuring everything you and your autoflower need for a successful, ultra frosty, and terpene drenched harvest. Each sachet is the proper amount to amend a 1.5 cu ft bag of the medium of your choice. To use, add one sachet to 1.5 cu ft of a quality potting medium (Roots Organics, Fox Farms, etc.). Mix thoroughly, then add this "charged" soil in the bottom half of your grow container. Fill the rest of your grow container with quality potting medium without the super soil amendments. This will allow your auto to establish itself in the base soil before reaching it's roots down into the super soil. With this method of growing you simply mix the soil and amendments, then feed only water throughout the plant's life cycle. For even greater results add earthworm castings or humus at a ratio of 3:1; 3 parts soil to 1 part castings. You can also use mycos for added nutrient uptake. Ingredients List: Blood Meal, Bat Guano, Bone Meal, Sulfate of Potash, Azomite, Humic Acid, Epsom Salt, Dolomite Lime Developed by GBD)

And I have some Hi-Brix Molasses from Earth Juice. Could I use that as a cal-mag replacement?
 
Back
Top