Indoor 2nd grow - Syrup

Maybe it's right for you , but for me it aint , btw sry spelsylver for calling you sir , didn't knew your a female.And hell no! plants don't grow faster in soil , you got that all wrong , agito is right , using hydro you need to feed them immediately because they don't have food and no you won't burn your plants by giving them nuts faster than the breeder said , start with small quantities until you reach the quantity needed.


i wasnt meaning overall growth, i meant at first because soil has food...my water does not until i give it food around 30 days which is now...only thing in my bucket is cal/mag and hygrozyme. For me, i like to read peoples whole journals so i can get a feel for the set up before i comment. its a way of showing real concern/interest...but that's just me.

anyways no harm no foul with the whole sir thing, i was just giving you shit lol.

---------- Post added 09-19-2011 at 12:41 PM ----------

Andy in hydro you need to mimic the strength of composts 0.6-0.8 ec might have the same strength as seedling compost and 1.2-1.8 might be closer to a medium/higher compost if you do not add food its like giving a baby no milk just water in the end the plants normally starve to death.

Andy does not grow in hydro i think he missed that bit i have

Andy has a lot of knowledge that and has been very helpful to many people on this forum, including myself. I for one, do grow in hydro and have seen from experience that in my DWC bucket adding nutes is NO GOOD for at least 30 days. I do put cal/mag and some kind of root conditioner like Zone or Hygrozyme...again, reading the whole journal before commenting is the best way to avoid me having to explain what is in my bucket.
 
Andy does not grow in hydro i think he missed that bit i have

Yep, I grow in soil. gotblunt's grow is in soil also and he does have some good results, but I don't agree with the blanket statement that you won't burn your plants feeding them in the first week. Many people can and do burn seedlings badly. We all know there is more than one way to get good yields, and experienced growers who are familiar with the medium, nutes, and strain can push a lot harder with feeding. But in my time here I've seen a hell of a lot more overnuted young autos than I have plants that didn't get fed early enough. But that's generally in soil since most new growers are in that medium rather than hydro. I'm not a hydro grower so I don't offer any advice on that front. Just my general opinion that the plant looks healthy for 30 days old.
 
i agree with you andy, over the majority of journals i have seen starting nutes that early is just cause for disaster, epcially in DWC where they have like zero time to recover from the damage...the roots are just dangling there vulnerable to the very strong nutes...i remember my first run back in april, killed 4 diesel ryder seedlings, had 1 seed left and did it right that time. even when i did start feeding i could never push over 500 ppm with that strain, it was a very nute sensitive strain and i learned by being obsessive with it and this forum.

i've seen a lot of burnt babies out here! :hot:
 
Sorry Andy on this point your wrong I'm 100% sure on this. I'm sure your good at growing in soil but this is not soil its like planting growing an auto for 30 days in wet tissue and water, compost has feed in it thus the reason you dont add nutes and people burn plants by feeding. Nutrient companys have seedling cuting strengths on bottles as the media is inert 0 npk. giving cal/mag is like a vit tab but you need a small amount of npk fat protein carbs

I have grown in dwc and aero and drip i know the crack
just do a quick google search

How to Start Seedlings for Hydroponics

Filed under Hydroponic Gardening

Now that you have decided to grow your own hydroponic garden, the hydroponic seed starting is the first step! Always grow the seeds in a hydroponic medium and not in soil. It is better to keep everything in sterile hydroponic culture so that you can avoid diseases and problems associated with soil. After all hydroponics is the cleanest system that can protect your plants from all kinds of diseases like damping off.
The way to sow the seeds is by sprinkling them on the medium and then pressing them in. if you want to avoid transplanting the seedlings from seed flats to pots, you could plant them into rock wool cubes.
Ideally, the seeds should be exposed to a maximum temperature of 72 degrees Fahrenheit during the day and a minimum of 65 degrees Fahrenheit during the nights. Seeds should not be exposed to cold drafts. If specified, follow directions for depth of planting. Otherwise the thumb rule is to plant at a depth that is twice the seed’s diameter.
Plant at a distance- 1-2 inches apart where airflow is not affected by the neighboring plant. Once you have planted the seeds, water with a very fine mist or spray. The watering is carried out once a day with nutrient water with ideal strength suited to seeds. The idea is to keep the seeds moist and not wet. Domes with air openings may be used over the planting trays.
Hydroponic seeds require nutrient solutions that have all 13 nutrients that are not found in soil-based fertilizers. Ensure appropriate light and temperature conditions.
Germination occurs when the seeds have appropriate amounts of oxygen, and water or air filled media to grow in. After the seedlings have sprouted, you can shift the trays into areas with high light intensity and cooler temperature.
A hydroponic culture is useful for a young seedling. The requirement that needs to be met is strong root growth. This is possible when the nutrients formula used contains a higher quantity of phosphorus as compared to nitrogen. You could also add plant-stimulating factors that are readily available in the market.
Some of the probable problems that may arise while seeding, can be enumerated as below:
1. Exposure to excessive temperatures: growing the seeds in a green house can result in temperatures exceeding the appropriate limit. In such a case, there will be no germination of seeds and they can even die. So, keep a check on the temperatures either with a thermometer or you could even gauge the heat by touching the surface with your fingers. If it’s hot to touch, it’s hot for the seeds too. Take corrective measures immediately.
2. Not enough moisture: the environmental requirement for seedlings is humidity level of 60% or higher. At a lower level, there will be no germination. Also ensure a good airflow so that the growing seeds can breathe.
Once the seeds have germinated and sprouted forth, use a fertilizer in the quarter-to half-strength. This will stimulate growth evenly. Now you can transplant these into the growing pots in your hydroponic garden!
 
Sorry Andy on this point your wrong I'm 100% sure on this.

I just said I grow in soil and I'm not giving hydro advice. My point is that making general statements about feeding on week one is likely to cause someone to burn up their plants. Lots of people read these threads and it isn't always clear what medium is being used. I understand you are clarifying your statements that they are hydro specific, but that wasn't the case with earlier comments in the thread.
 
I for one from personal experience would not feed my seedlings nutrients for at least 30 days. cal/mag with hygrozyme seems to be just fine.

this is how my diesel ryder turned out. my very first time growing anything in my entire life, got just over an ounce dried from 1 plant. i did not feed this plant until day 35ish and delayed only because i was fighting root rot issues (did not know about hygrozyme until day 22!)

came out pretty damn nice if i do say so myself. No sense in arguing, i'll do what works for me!

30503d1316803354-diesel-ryder-smashed-diesel-ryder.jpg


 
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in hydro you should yield 3-4oz per plant and i have seen even more with ease with a DR so i can not see your point I have said my peace Andy were all good I wasent having a go it just hydro is different to soil and if the op does not want to take advice from 2 hydro growers its up to them
I have starved my plants before from under feeding in the past and you can verify my advice with a simple google search if you do not beleive me give your plants the 300ppm and watch it drop to show your plants are underfed and starving when your ppms dont drop thats the sweet spot.
also you can use h2o2 to fight root rot but it can not be mixed with hygrozyme i have used cannazyme i assume its the same and what the zyme does is eats the rotten roots and provides feed
I'm pulling myself out of this thread now i have tried my best
 
No bother and good luck
ps check your res temps it may be the cause of the rot as i high temp reduce dissolved o2
 
No bother and good luck
ps check your res temps it may be the cause of the rot as i high temp reduce dissolved o2

root rot is not longer an issue for me. I had it once on my first grow because i did not know about hygrozyme.

I currently am running hygrozyme with this syrup and Zone by dutch master in my other buckets, which is formulated for warm water temps. Plus my hannah meter tells me how warm it is in there every time i check my ph, which is at least once a week, often more.

I know this is only my second run but i'm obsessvie about this growing thing and have been reading my butt off. I will be using the EWC tea in my bucket that you recommended against using in dwc as an experiment. Making the tea has taught me A LOT about the bennes that live in my bucket and i will document any significatnt if any changes i see while using it.

anyone interested in the tea im talking about check here... http://www.autoflower.org/f5/teas-dwc-buckets-3115.html
 
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