New Grower My first autos
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When would be a good time to start LST'ing? I mean is it better to do it sooner like first days or abit later day 18-20? I was thinkin to let the plants grow a bit more taller so when I bend them, the tops will be closer or above the pot's edge so I don't pull leaves or new growth off.
Or do I get different results depending when I LST?
Peace and flowers!
Or do I get different results depending when I LST?
Peace and flowers!
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I can't get it up man, i can't get it more then 40%... Now I know you guys wanna tell me to get some Viagra but I'm talking about RH here lol. My room is now 25-26 celsius and 40% RH. I've put a recipient with water but 0 difference and I hate the idea of wet towel...
Use a fork to loosen the top of the soil before watering and water slowly.
When your plants are happy in a veg growth friendly environment.
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Usually after 2 to 3 weeks of growth is a good time to start; some guys will start training sooner but you're dealing with a pretty delicate stem/root system still; one of the biggest problems I see with members is they use gorilla brute strength with their LOW STRESS training and wonder what happens. Snaps and bends can (and will) occur, but generally when they happen and you explore "the why," you'll find it was most likely the result of your own actions.
So, that being said, the name of the game is slow, steady, and LOW STRESS.
I drill holes in the top of all my pots as anchor points for my LST'ing. I prefer to use fuzzy pipe cleaners (the chenille offers some degree of protection to the plant stems and SUPER easy to work with.)
Basically you'll want to bend the TOP of your main stem down as far as she will GENTLY GO and tie a loop with the pipe cleaner around one of the nodes near the top. Anchor the other end to the pot. The nice thing about pipe cleaners versus other tie-downs if that you can pinch the wire in the middle and twist it, allowing you to make VERY small increments in tension, which is nice when you need to tie things back down (matter of twisting and pinching the wires, no re-doing anything.)
On the OPPOSITE end of where you tied down the anchor to the pot; you will want to tie down another SEPARATE anchor and attach this to the lower 1/3 to middle of the plant. This is your counter balance or counter weight. This will help prevent too much pressure being put on the one side of the plant (which can pull the plant down/over, not super common but once you see what kind of pressure you can put on these things, you will see why you want it.)
The idea is to bend the stems like you would bend copper pipe. If you take a piece of copper tubing and put a 90 degree crimp in it; you've just destroyed the integrity of the inside diameter. If you take that same tubing and make a slow, GRADUAL bend with it, you can still get your 90 degree turn and the inside diameter still relatively retains it's shape. Same thing with stems, put too much pressure on one spot and they will crimp/bend. Gradually do it and you'll get them to bend any way you want.
Notice how I mention "gradual" several times? It doesn't all have to be done in one day. I think another problem members have is they want to LST one night and be done. Slow and steady wins the race here.
I LST pretty much through my entire grow. I've asked a few of our more botany-minded members on here if they felt LST was worth continuing through flowering and the response was that it seems to be worth doing.
When you LST that main stem/shoot and bend it over, the plant releases a flood of auxins, or hormones that regulate cell elongation in side shoots. What that means in laymen terms is that your side branching gets a massive boost in growth. This can create some bushy plants; but it does indeed tend to level out the canopy. Much easier to get "cola-esque" tops with LST versus not in my opinion.
Hope that answers your question on LST brother; let me know if you need any help!
Friend, this answer is over what I expected. Ty very much. I will do LST over time, not rushing it. It's much better to do it like that cause I will have to spent more time with them <3. I have no clue what fuzzy pipe is but I have a really thin and flexible cable.
While i was at work today (still am), I taught of a technic to do my LST, similar to yours, but slightly different. I'll start in the morning with just an easy bent and of the main steam and work my way down with patience and I'll also post a set of pics.
One more time thanks buddy!!
While i was at work today (still am), I taught of a technic to do my LST, similar to yours, but slightly different. I'll start in the morning with just an easy bent and of the main steam and work my way down with patience and I'll also post a set of pics.
One more time thanks buddy!!
I used the "holes in the pot" tech for LST, on the spot it seemed way more easy then my SF ideas. I just did a small bent an tied the top down, will pull it down a bit more later tonight after watering.
RH still won't go above 35... hope the weed will be ok, seems I can't do much about that.
RH still won't go above 35... hope the weed will be ok, seems I can't do much about that.
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looks good to me nice job :Sharing One:
vinegar will ph down and backing soda will ph up, I suggest a soil probe like the accurit 8
Control Wizard Soil pH Moist Meter w/ 12" Electrode Ships Free
if not check this out to check soil ph
Rough Calculation Guide:
Here's some good info on ph.....
If your runoff pH is higher than your starting pH, use this equation to determine your soil pH:*
Soil pH = Runoff pH + Difference
If your runoff pH is lower than your starting pH, us this equation:
Soil pH = Runoff pH - Difference.
For example, say your the starting pH of your solution before it goes in is 6.5 and the pH of your runoff is 7.0. The difference is +0.5, so using the above equation:
Soil pH = 7.0 + 0.5*
Soil pH = 7.5
If your starting pH is 6.5 and your runoff is 6.0, your difference is -0.5 and using the above equation:
Soil pH = 6.0 - 0.5
Soil pH = 5.5
I think this is method is questionable. And I (still) would like to see Accurate 8 owning AFN members calculate their run off ph using the Rough Calculation Guide and compare it to two Accurate 8 readings, one taken 30-45 minutes later as recommended by the manufacturer and another taken 24 hours later as recommended by Muddy. Can we do this, please? The power of sample size.
edit: A comparison with a slurry test would also be illuminating. "Izzy wizzy"(the Control Wizard)
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