What went wrong with those babies? Want to learn from my mistake

[Bob's Auto's]

I live in Brazil!
I´ve just bought the Promix with lime as recommended by you and ManOGreen:

PROMIX 5050 50L Features - PROFESSIONAL LEVEL - Sphagnum peat and perlite in the proportion of 50% of each element. - Special and inert mixture for growing in pots and hydroponic growing with substrate. - High drainage - Fast drying. - Higher level of oxygenation of the roots.

SUNSHINE MIX #6 It does not contain aggregates, allowing greater control of drainage according to management. Premix #6 blend is a combination of Canadian Sphagnum Peat, dolomitic limestone, proprietary wetting agent, microelements and a lower fertilizer load. Recommended use: pure or to add aggregates, according to preference.

Physical-Chemical Characteristics: - pH: 6.0 + - 0.50 - ec (dS m-¹): 0.90 + - 0.30 - Air holding capacity: 10 -15% - Water holding capacity: 50 - 60% - N: 20 - 40 ppm - P: 05 - 25 ppm - Ca: 50 - 190 ppm - Mg: 30 - 100 ppm - Fe: 0.1- 1.0 ppm - Cu: 0.005 - 0.015 ppm - B: 0.05 - 0.3 ppm - Zn: 0.03 - 0.5 ppm - Mo: 0.005 - 0.015 ppm

PROMIX 5050 Specification - pH 5.8 - 6.2 - EC 0.3 - Humidity.: 60.15 - Density. 190kg/m3 - CRA: 446

Despite the outcome of the "Yennefers", I´ll start new autos next week with this soiless mix and plan to feed only with Green House Feeding Mineral Powder.

I would start slowly with the nutes brother. The sunshine mix already has nutrients in it and a seedling doesn't need much in the beginning. Also treat this 'soilless' mix as if it were soil. The pH of you nutrient solution needs to be around the 5.8 - 6.2. Keep those two in check and you'll be alright

 

[StuntMaster]

I would start slowly with the nutes brother. The sunshine mix already has nutrients in it and a seedling doesn't need much in the beginning. Also treat this 'soilless' mix as if it were soil. The pH of you nutrient solution needs to be around the 5.8 - 6.2. Keep those two in check and you'll be alright

Hi Bob! Thankyou for the input on fertigating and promix.

That´s exactly were I miss the train every time.
First grow I didn´t fed them for about a month and they almost died.
This time I´ve fertigated with nutrients on day 7 with 1 set of true leaves. Too soon I guess.

Would you help me out understanding when it´s the right time to begin fertigating with promix?
Should I wait until day 10 or so, until the second or third set of true leaves emerges?
And when should I start to fertigate with runoff ?
With runoff I feel more confident cause I can measure EC in and out.

 

[tronN00dles]

I start nutrients with Pro-Mix HP between day 7-10 after sprout. I emailed the manufacturer and that's what they told me, so that's what I've been doing.

As for fertigating strategy, I simply follow Man O'Green's recommendation for peat-based soilless mixes:

Tutorial - A word on Nutrients

The proper use of “salt” based fertilizer to grow Auto Flowering Cannabis. Salts: Natural and man made any chemical compound formed from the reaction of an acid with a base, with all or part of the hydrogen of the acid replaced by a metal or other cation. Learning how to use salt based...

www.autoflower.org

In short: peat likes water/nute pH's at 6.3-6.4, and also likes to hold onto nutrients. This makes giving plain water in between applications a good idea. In flower, this might be nutes - water - water repeat. In early veg, I find myself giving 3-4 plain waterings in between feeds. I also water to run-off every time, maybe not so much in the first few waterings when the plants are tiny.

Check out my ongoing grow journal #5 below. It's a photo grow, but it's in Pro-Mix HP with liquid nutrients. I'm watering every 2/3 days, but really only feeding nutes once per week at this stage.

 

[Bob's Auto's]

Hi Bob! Thankyou for the input on fertigating and promix.

That´s exactly were I miss the train every time.
First grow I didn´t fed them for about a month and they almost died.
This time I´ve fertigated with nutrients on day 7 with 1 set of true leaves. Too soon I guess.

Would you help me out understanding when it´s the right time to begin fertigating with promix?
Should I wait until day 10 or so, until the second or third set of true leaves emerges?
And when should I start to fertigate with runoff ?
With runoff I feel more confident cause I can measure EC in and out.

The first ten to twelve days the seedling is stretching it's roots in search for real estate, nutrients and water. It's key to only give water as the roots will use up the available nutrients in the soil and move on in search of more. "Give nutrients when the tips of the leaves have reached the side of the pot" seems to be a good motto in this case. The more you let the roots grow in search for... the more it will be able to feed the entire plant. Another great tip is to use some sort of mycorrhiza. A good example is DynoMyco, a product which you can win by entering this raffle, btw.
These myco will in no time double or even triple the surface area for uptake of nutrients.
I'm still in dubio if pH should be so high as both brands say to keep it between 5.8 - 6.2, but I'm not going to go into discussion with MOG as he is way more knowledgeable in the matter. So if he recommends 6.5, I'd go with that and feel lucky with this advice given.

 

[StuntMaster]

Those 3 ladies have entered pre flowering since 4 weeks has passed, and now they are officialy dead.
At autopsy I could identify that the roots have not grown through the jiffy pellets .
So what may have stunted them? Wormcastings already hotting the soil, roots not being able to grow deep the pot thought the jiffys, overfed seedlings (fertigated 1/2 dose on day 7), just a wreck of a grow.

Now to the good news:

Another 3 seeds are about to germinate. 1x Banana Purple Punch and 2x Strawberry Gorillas.
Promix and solocup this time for germination, no jiffys.

Pots will be 4gal Promix (Peat+Perlite) Soiless added Mykos and will pay attention to:
* Presoak the pots 24/48 hours prior transplanting seedlings;
* Water lightly the first week (250ml every other day);
* Fertigate 1/8 dose between day 10 - 14; When the first set of true leaves fully develop.

Nutes will be GreenHouseFeeding Grow, Shortflowering and Booster. Planning to Fertigate, Water, Water routine.
Runoff of 15-20% from 3rd week and forward, always measuring PPM not letting it get past +300 from the input fertigation.
Planning on going from 250ppm for week 2, 350 for week3 and so on, top max at 600ppm late flower. Aiming pH of 5.8-6.2.

Sounds a good plan? Any tips for the new ladies will be welcome. Just cannot afford to kill another 3 babies. Help me with your experience please.

 

[Bob's Auto's]

Getting the jiffy's aside was a smart choice brother.
The pro-mix is a great medium to grow into. And as you are inoculating it with Mykos the only other thing I could recommend you is some sort of bacterial culture for the health of the medium and the roots. Get yourself unsulfured molasse's to feed the mycelium with once in a while (1x per month or so, 1tbsp/gal)

In any case I wish you the best of with this grow

 

[StuntMaster]

Getting the jiffy's aside was a smart choice brother.
The pro-mix is a great medium to grow into. And as you are inoculating it with Mykos the only other thing I could recommend you is some sort of bacterial culture for the health of the medium and the roots. Get yourself unsulfured molasse's to feed the mycelium with once in a while (1x per month or so, 1tbsp/gal)

In any case I wish you the best of with this grow

Thanks for the input Bob!

Unfortunately I cannot find quality organic products in Brazil yet, like reliable unsulfured molasses.
But I´ve got this package of Green House Feeding BioEnhancer, I´m thinking about presoaking the pots with 0.25g per liter. Think it´ll be a good move?

BioEnhancer can be used as a multi-purpose tool for any organic culture.
Its main purpose is to increase nutrient intake and act as a soil conditioner.
However, it can be used for better rooting of cuttings, germination of seeds and as a spray on the leaves for better stimulation of plant growth.
Humic and Fulvic Acids
Humic and fulvic acids come from leonardite, which acts as a soil conditioner, biocatalyst and bio stimulant.
They also help the chelated components of nutrients, thereby increasing the nutrient uptake by the plant.
In particular, they increase iron intake, which results in greater production of chlorophyll and sugar, and thus improves taste and nutritional values.
Seaweed extract
Seaweed extract (Kelp) contains 62 trace elements, amino acids and natural phytohormones.
It acts as a soil conditioner, supports stronger and more vital root development and improves seed germination.
In addition, it increases the intake of nutrients, water and stimulates plants to better manage stress.
Trichoderma Harzianum
Trichoderma Harzianum improves root development, strengthens nutrient uptake and keeps roots healthy, without various diseases caused by fungal pathogens.
Bacillus Amyloliquefaciens
This bacterium is used to biocontrol pathogens in the substrate and on the leaves.
It controls a wide range of pathogens by competing for nutrients and space.
It also dissolves nitrogen and phosphorus by decomposing organic matter.
Guaranteed analysis:
75% Humic acid
3% Fulvic acid
10% Sea breed extract from Ascophyllum nodosum
106 cfu/g Trichoderma Harzianum
107 cfu/g Bacillus Subtilis
9.3 pH
Carbohydrates: Alginic acid, Mannitol, Fucoidans
Amino acids: Alanine, Asparagic acid, Glutamic acid, Glycine, Isolucine, Leucine, Lysine, Methionine, Phenylalanine, Proline, Tyrosine, Valine, Tryptophan.

• Phosphorus provides energy to the plant to maintain stable growth. Symptoms of phosphorus deficiency are manifested by stunted growth and bluish green leaves. As with nitrogen, the deficit first appears on older leaves, suggesting that phosphorus is also a mobile element and is moving where it is most needed.
• Mycelium may appear on the surface of the substrate. This improves the microbial life inside the substrate and does not harm humans, animals or plants. Fungi are a major factor in the decomposition of organic matter, such as simple sugars, amino acids, etc., and also dissolve minerals that are not initially available to plants.

HOW TO USE IT:
Mix BioEnhancer with water and apply watering every two weeks.
Can be used throughout the cycle (vegetative growth and flowering)
For better root development, use Enhancer at each transplant.
Use within 24 hours after mixing with water!
DOSAGE:
Adding the Enhancer to the water raises the pH to 8.5.
It is not necessary to adjust the pH when using the Enhancer by spraying on leaves or as a watering soil.
When using Enhancer by pouring into a coconut substrate, we recommend adjusting the pH to 5.0 before adding Enhancer to the water.
Medium watering: 0.5 - 1g per 1l of water every two weeks.
Rooting cuttings: Before planting the cuttings, soak / pour the medium 0.25 g per 1 l of water.
Germinating seeds: Soak the seeds in a solution of 0.5 - 1 g per 1 l of water for 8 - 12 hours.
Spray application: Mix 3 - 5g per 10l of water and apply once every 2 weeks during the vegetative stage.
For mother plants, apply 24 hours before removing new cuttings.

 

[Bob's Auto's]

Thanks for the input Bob!

Unfortunately I cannot find quality organic products in Brazil yet, like reliable unsulfured molasses.
But I´ve got this package of Green House Feeding BioEnhancer, I´m thinking about presoaking the pots with 0.25g per liter. Think it´ll be a good move?

BioEnhancer can be used as a multi-purpose tool for any organic culture.
Its main purpose is to increase nutrient intake and act as a soil conditioner.
However, it can be used for better rooting of cuttings, germination of seeds and as a spray on the leaves for better stimulation of plant growth.
Humic and Fulvic Acids
Humic and fulvic acids come from leonardite, which acts as a soil conditioner, biocatalyst and bio stimulant.
They also help the chelated components of nutrients, thereby increasing the nutrient uptake by the plant.
In particular, they increase iron intake, which results in greater production of chlorophyll and sugar, and thus improves taste and nutritional values.
Seaweed extract
Seaweed extract (Kelp) contains 62 trace elements, amino acids and natural phytohormones.
It acts as a soil conditioner, supports stronger and more vital root development and improves seed germination.
In addition, it increases the intake of nutrients, water and stimulates plants to better manage stress.
Trichoderma Harzianum
Trichoderma Harzianum improves root development, strengthens nutrient uptake and keeps roots healthy, without various diseases caused by fungal pathogens.
Bacillus Amyloliquefaciens
This bacterium is used to biocontrol pathogens in the substrate and on the leaves.
It controls a wide range of pathogens by competing for nutrients and space.
It also dissolves nitrogen and phosphorus by decomposing organic matter.
Guaranteed analysis:
75% Humic acid
3% Fulvic acid
10% Sea breed extract from Ascophyllum nodosum
106 cfu/g Trichoderma Harzianum
107 cfu/g Bacillus Subtilis
9.3 pH
Carbohydrates: Alginic acid, Mannitol, Fucoidans
Amino acids: Alanine, Asparagic acid, Glutamic acid, Glycine, Isolucine, Leucine, Lysine, Methionine, Phenylalanine, Proline, Tyrosine, Valine, Tryptophan.

• Phosphorus provides energy to the plant to maintain stable growth. Symptoms of phosphorus deficiency are manifested by stunted growth and bluish green leaves. As with nitrogen, the deficit first appears on older leaves, suggesting that phosphorus is also a mobile element and is moving where it is most needed.
• Mycelium may appear on the surface of the substrate. This improves the microbial life inside the substrate and does not harm humans, animals or plants. Fungi are a major factor in the decomposition of organic matter, such as simple sugars, amino acids, etc., and also dissolve minerals that are not initially available to plants.

HOW TO USE IT:
Mix BioEnhancer with water and apply watering every two weeks.
Can be used throughout the cycle (vegetative growth and flowering)
For better root development, use Enhancer at each transplant.
Use within 24 hours after mixing with water!
DOSAGE:
Adding the Enhancer to the water raises the pH to 8.5.
It is not necessary to adjust the pH when using the Enhancer by spraying on leaves or as a watering soil.
When using Enhancer by pouring into a coconut substrate, we recommend adjusting the pH to 5.0 before adding Enhancer to the water.
Medium watering: 0.5 - 1g per 1l of water every two weeks.
Rooting cuttings: Before planting the cuttings, soak / pour the medium 0.25 g per 1 l of water.
Germinating seeds: Soak the seeds in a solution of 0.5 - 1 g per 1 l of water for 8 - 12 hours.
Spray application: Mix 3 - 5g per 10l of water and apply once every 2 weeks during the vegetative stage.
For mother plants, apply 24 hours before removing new cuttings.

Yup, that'll do it for ya

 

[StuntMaster]

Second round is up:

1x Banana Purple Punch is out, looking healthy
1x Strawberry Gorilla did not reach the surface yet
1x Strawberry Gorilla is out, with a HELMET HEAD!

I´ve misted phed water over them, leaving waterdrop hanging on the shelf trying to soften it.
Should I try to remove it gently if not out in the next day?

 

[Bob's Auto's]

Should I try to remove it gently if not out in the next day?

That's a hard one. I'm inclined to say yes, but then if I do it and it fails, it's on me. It's not that difficult to remove the helmet, but why not wait a day or so. Most of the time they free themselves from the shell and then you don't have to touch the frail seedling...