Delps8: Thank you for your thoughts and questions, this is reason why I came here, to hear different opinions and ideas of other growers, really apreciete your time to write me here.
This is a good site for that. There are a lot of very experienced growers here.
1) I found that res temp should be 65 to 71f (18-22celsius) - so simmilar values. Lower values can slow down growth because of temperature and higher can keep less DO and also makes good conditions for root rot etc…. My temperatures are higher so i can buy a chiller or try get ther everyday bottle with ice etc but i am lazy for both.
My air intake is just at the reservoir so bigger plant will be, more time will be working my outtake fan and my reservoir will be colder. I also put a lot il air through my airstone to my reservoir and use cannyzym - this should immediately destroy any dead tissues - ideal conditions for bud rot etc. So far It looks like sufficient. But after i read your reply, I will start using some mycorhizae product with rtichoderma etc. Product you mentioned I didnt find in my european country. Do you have some experiences with piranha or tarrantula by Advanced nutrients - those i can buy here. My contrameasures work so my temp now is 73 f and keep slowly going down. But deffinitely those temperatures slowed down growth…
By the way, have you ever heared about nano/micro/ultrafine bubbles? I would live to try it!!!
A chiller is very helpful is you're in a warm climate. What part of Europe?
The change in dissolved oxygen is about +8% to go from 25°C to 20°C and I've assumed that amount would have an impact on growth but, frankly, I haven't ready any research about that. My primary concern would be root rot.
I haven't used Piranha or Tarantula. I've seen growers here on AFN mention Advanced Nutrients you should be able to get an answer about what to use by posting in the "Nutrients & Additives" forum.
Re. ultrafine bubbles - that's new to me. I have used regular air stones in past grows and decided to use
BubbleMac air diffusers for this grow. They produce very find bubbles but nothing like what YLEC is demonstrating. Have you seen their products used in agriculture?
2) Yes i am using 18h light schedule - i would like to try 20h as well but i will have to improve my arduino controlling unit - ad buttons and menu….
It never ends with version 1.0 - you know that, right?
Why so much light - why not? I saw some lectures by dr Bugsbee and he told that cannabis can use a lot of light since it is very young. Enough light helps create compact plants. Also more light = more photosynthesis = more sugars for upcomming growth. I know this is true only to some point, but so far plant looks she likes it. How much light do you use in this age of your plants? I want to build next, bigger, chamber with ac, dehumidifier, co2 supplementation and try to get ppfd up to 1500!!!
That's pretty much how I think about it now.
I started off with very low light levels, changed to a DLI of 25 mols for seedlings and 45 mols afterward, and now I take the approach to "get them to 900 µmols as soon as you can". Made that final change during this grow, which is about a week from harvest. I had two colas that were 940± µmols and they turned away from the light so I've dropped the power level so that the highest reading is ≈ 850 µmols.
I will be starting a grow in September and I will use high light levels throughout the grow. I think 400 is a good start point but will raise it from there.
I was listening to a Bugbee video (I've watched almost all of his videos) and he explained about increasing light levels. The example he gave was increasing from 300 to 1200 µmols. A lot of growers, in his words, will increase by 10% per day. As he explains, there's no reason to do that. A change of that magnitude is safe to make in just two days.
Re. compact plants - a plant that doesn't get much light will stretch so good lighting will avoid stretch but blue light is the easiest way to get "compact" plants. The internodal spacing on your plant is impressive. My previous grow had similar looking plants it resulted in a plant about 70 cm tall.
Did you notice the plant reaction in your day 10 pictures? That's an excellent example of light avoidance. You changed the light level, didn't you?
"I want to build next, bigger, chamber with ac, dehumidifier, co2 supplementation and try to get ppfd up to 1500!!!"
Great attitude!
There's a forum here for grow rooms - you might want to check that one out.
A big issue with high light levels - you have to make sure that the rest of the grow environment is running smoothly. Two quotes from the video I mentioned - "you don't have much margin for error" and "all the other things have to be co-optimized".
I wil also perform no defoliation, binding etc, i will only take out small branches that dont grow up to cannopy, I dont like popcorn. So my main training method is collor and ammount of light…. Looking forward to see result
Re. training - you've got a compact plant and your blue light will help keep the plant short. Unless you train the plant, however, you're going to have one large cola growing on the "apical stem". That gives a cannabis plant a "Christmas tree" shape and can make it hard to light the plant properly.
One way to avoid that is to top your plants but some growers prefer low stress training ("binding"?) so they bend the apical stem over. In either case, the secondary branches will grow larger. If you'd like to top your plant, today (day 21) is a good day to do so. I prefer to top my plants, which is "high stress training", rather than doing low stress training.
