Grow Mediums Understanding EC/PPM of an Autopot Run

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Hi all!!

I've just finished my second run ever using coco/perlite and organic dry amendments but ran into a bunch of issues between what seemed like nute deficiency or lockout, lots of dying leaves, stunted growth, and fungus gnats/spider mites. Pretty much the full spectrum of issues you can think of. Due to the lack of control in understanding what was going wrong with my plants using organic dry amendments, I've invested in an autopot XL 4 pot system with air domes to use on my next run in the 5x5 tent using the spider farmer SF-4000.

I plan on trying out the Lotus Nutrients line but am wanting to understand why its recommended to dilute a feeding schedule PPM to 1/4 or 1/2 strength rather than the recommended dosage? I can find no other information of doing this other than some forum posts here and elsewhere across other online forums. There is no mention of this on the auto pot website? Really I'm just looking for explanation of why the solution should be diluted so I can understand it more as I never used to measure EC/PPM on my last runs but it does make a whole lot of sense. My tap water (well water) right now is 350 ppm, which I am realizing is a big issue but I just bought an RO system which should be getting installed this weekend.

Also, the lotus nutrient lineup has three different feeding schedules and I'm confused whether I should dilute based on the DWC/Recirculating schedule or the Coco schedule?

EDIT: Another question, what adjustments need to be made for PPM readings for photoperiods vs. autoflower? And also why? I only read on here that autoflowers are a bit more sensitive to nutrients. So does that mean 1/2 strength of feeding schedule for photos and 1/4 strength for autos
? I am so confused lol!

I linked the feeding schedules below.


Any help is much appreciated!!!
 
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