transplant ph problems.

garden lime is prob Agricultural lime which usually is Dolomitic lime
Dolimitic lime means it was extracted from magnesium rich limestone
Calcitic is from stone w/ a higher calcite(calcium) ratio and little to no magnesium
Agricultural limestome(prob also" garden limestone)"is pulverised and screened during processing to make it more consistant for even appication in soil
and doesn't contain any hydrated lime if it is agricultural so it will break down over time as opposed to immediate availability of higher amounts found in hydrated lime
I would not advise using "burnt" (hydrated lime) this will easily burn roots if not done exceptionally and margin for error is small if you are asking about it i would't be doing it yet
lime is "burnt" to increase reactivity(hydroxides) but will usually only be used in really high leaching soil like sandy or types of clay and for special need crops

+

look on label of "garden lime" to see if it has any listing for magnesium
you need to add more agricultural lime because it breaks down slower than hydrated lime will
and sorry almost forgot to tell you what to do instead of what not to do:)
how do you check your ph(for starters)?
read the garden lime bag for application rates depending on potency and mix then test after watering a couple of times
only use proper ph water and wait till it evens out upon testing
putting plants in soil you know is out of balance will only cause you worse stunting and plant defencies to fix in a crucial time for development
one thing i would recommend when using smaller containers is wattering less but a couple of times giving them a less of a swing in extremmes
to be clear on feeding days if you gave them a cup of nutrient mix solution then spread it out to atleast half twice a day but if you were constantly watching change in ph for exmp[le you could add little by little as the soil needed it to be optimum moisture level ie. drip irrigation, flooding, to name a few whatever you choose the trick to everything is not overwattering
overwattering will lead to other issues as well and microbe damage nutrient lock to name a quick few
lots more gotta run for now but this will get you started


= really useful info especially for those of us in hardwater areas if we're considering using lime. I could easily have made a mistake on that. + rep worthy. :peace:
 
thanks for the info sativa, i am measuring runoff with a HM digital ph pen. only knwo what ive been told so ive been watering and catching some of the early runoff as i was told this is more accurate.
this is all it says in relation to ingredients or anything really "screened limestone, neutralising value 45%, total passing through 150 micron sieve" vague,..
probably best not to risk it.

i have brought them upto the point that watering with 6.8 gets 6.6 as runoff now, getting close to transplantable? i was thinking it isnt too far off anyway but
maybe through watering so much this is inaccurate.
 
the white siberian has dark spots on some of the older growth

magnesium deficiency?
i have epsom salts and a bottle of Canna Magnesium Sulphate (MgO) 7% 1 Litre (couldnt find cal mag and theres lots of calcium in my water. it was cheap if useless anyway) in the post that should arrive today or tomorrow, 3 part nutes etc.
any advice?

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it was showing these to a lesser degree before transplanting i was hoping it was just some water droplets burning under the lights. im sure its a lockout but it might not be getting worse just yet anyway either way what would people recommend? or its just the ph still affecting them.
last checked runoff was 6.6 but it could be a bit lower than that.

i noticed a tiny speck that looks similar on the sour ak and the jack 33 is pretty light green, related? or different issues.

both pictures are the same WS plant.
any help much appreciated.
 

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Just to be clear, I only advise the use of hydrated lime when there is a severe pH issue that needs to be corrected fast. As sativalover has pointed out, it's a bit trickier to use and if not done correctly, can burn the plants roots.

Muddy is right on as usual
eventhough we discussed the benefits of lime in many forms if you especially see that a plant is telling you the soil is in need of raising then really "hydrated lime" is the only way w/ lime to fix a plant and soil fast enough to make a dif
dolimite is good but will not be as availabe as fast for "IMMEDIATE" emergency problem for the most part and should be used more for soil maintenance
you added it to the mix and remember less is more
the thing w/ lime is if you use too much you are pretty screwed for the most part and things will go bad in a hurry
remember the thing is lime is used to even the acidity the roots and microbe climate creates the more roots present the faster the change wil go back and forth
you can use alittle baking soda (only 1/4 teaspoon per gal) and add about aprox 2 cups per gallon and check around every six hours add more or less but give it a chance and don't overdo it
if you add to much of any lime or soda it is almost worse than the problem you started w/
you can still just slightly change rinse wattering ph to change a slightly fluctuating ph
 
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the white siberian has dark spots on some of the older growth

magnesium deficiency?
i have epsom salts and a bottle of Canna Magnesium Sulphate (MgO) 7% 1 Litre (couldnt find cal mag and theres lots of calcium in my water. it was cheap if useless anyway) in the post that should arrive today or tomorrow, 3 part nutes etc.
any advice?

it was showing these to a lesser degree before transplanting i was hoping it was just some water droplets burning under the lights. im sure its a lockout but it might not be getting worse just yet anyway either way what would people recommend? or its just the ph still affecting them.
last checked runoff was 6.6 but it could be a bit lower than that.

i noticed a tiny speck that looks similar on the sour ak and the jack 33 is pretty light green, related? or different issues.

both pictures are the same WS plant.
any help much appreciated.

Wish i could see the plant up close to look at the spots take a pic of roots when transplanting
but you mentioned your water has alot of cal in it this is not really good too much calcium will cause lock out and ph will nevvvvvvvvvvver properly ph balance compaired to rain water if your on a budget RO water if you can afford it
but really rain water should be used if at all possible
 
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Wish i could see the plant up close to look at the spots take a pic of roots when transplanting
but you mentioned your water has alot of cal in it this is not really good too much calcium will cause lock out and ph will nevvvvvvvvvvver properly ph balance compaired to rain water if your on a budget RO water if you can afford it
but really rain water should be used if at all possible
spots on older leaf contorting leaf can you take a better pic of some newer growth and post it??
 
hey sativa i wasnt sure exactly what youre after but heres a few closer pics fo the plant in different lighting to get a better idea, if you need more say i have camera on hand anyway.
i dont think i took a photo of the roots during transplant but i do remember all the photos roots were white and a bit underdeveloped. just slightly circling the pot at the bottom but nothing like the autos. i know this isnt much to go on but just they looked healthy if you want to ask about some specific feature of the roots ill try to remember.

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i have started foliar feeding quarter strength nutes as recommended by someone on another forum, they seem to be perked up a bit today ill keep on that i think at the least itll let the ground dry out a bit and get some roots forming. ill water friday and get a new ph reading and maybe correct with soda/garden lime.

im not really sure how much calcium i have in my water but im assuming theres atleast enough needed by a plant and probably lots more. i dont really get limescale in kettles etc so it cant be crazily high.
i live in a city and dont really have a garden so i dont think i can get rainwater and have never seen RO water around here but ill look. where do you find this? we do not have walmart which seems to be where everything comes from. any other type that might work that would be available in a crappy enough supermarket?

thanks for the help
 

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I use the Walmart brand Spring water. Blue cap. But depending on where the Walmart is, they get water from different sources. Mine seems to be fine. 123 ppm and right over 7 ph. Tastes good.
 
no walmart here but would most spring water be the same? or similar. i would think most springwater here would be passing through limestone though no idea, i have no ec meter.

any type of commonly sold shop water that i could get thats not US specific(ly available)?
also im sure i have some calcium but no idea how much. no limescale makes me think its not alot. thoughts? what is too much anyway
 
You should be fine with the Spring water where you are, but I just read that about the bottling and noticed where it came from on the bottle so I wanted to add that.
 
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