transplant ph problems.

[bgrt]

no worries, i might but that might be wishfull thinking. cheers.

 

[bgrt]

still phing pots, i transplanted the easyryders but not the photos yet. getting there slowly anyway. i was wondering in the meantime can i foliar feed to get around soil ph or is it still unable to absorb if the soil is out of range for some reason?

 

[stashmouth]

If the lime is pelletized, try crushing it, then ammending. Should speed up absorption. May still take a couple waterings.

 

[bgrt]

i have garden lime, no dolomite. the garden lime is fine powder. going to search again for dolomite now but unlikely as any search for common things seems to come up empty as shops here are terrible and i can only go within walking distance for now, any thoughts on foliar feeding? i think the plants are all a bit N hungry, though i read that shouldnt be locked out by my ph probably around 5.5-6.5(guesstimate). would foliar help anything?

 

[Eschatos]

Garden lime is hydrated lime? If it is then it should work for you. Dolomite lime reacts slowly with water to become hydrated lime, which is what pushes the ph of soil towards the ~7 ph area. Any form of lime should work, some work better on the long term bringing stability to the soil's ph, some act faster. Unless garden lime is something entirely different

Foliar feed I know works for quick fixes, giving micro elements that have been locked out. I don't know if it works for N.

 

[bgrt]

no dolomite. found some epsom salts for the first time though bought just as it seems like a common thing to need once in a while. but my ph problem is still here.
everything i read said that dolomite was better as it was a slow steady release compared to hydrated(garden?) lime which is more suited to amend a few months before you need to use the ground and it was too hot. but i dont know too much to read not enough time.

i added some garden lime to the soil when mixing, not much but a bit and if it is slow acting it would explain why my ph is still really low. but maybe i just didnt use enough.

just received a new delivery of stuff to keep my mind off it for now anyway

 

[stashmouth]

This is a post from Muddy, on my grow:

"Looking better but still a bit pale. I would suggest getting some household ammonia and mixing it 1 part ammonia to 10 parts water. Mist them with it once a day for 3 days. That will give them a bit of N and should green the leaves up and give them a boost. "

I hope this helps you with yours. I would think misting them with ph'd water, with or without the N, should be okay. Don't overdo it.

 

[sativalover]

i have garden lime, no dolomite. the garden lime is fine powder. going to search again for dolomite now but unlikely as any search for common things seems to come up empty as shops here are terrible and i can only go within walking distance for now, any thoughts on foliar feeding? i think the plants are all a bit N hungry, though i read that shouldnt be locked out by my ph probably around 5.5-6.5(guesstimate). would foliar help anything?

garden lime is prob Agricultural lime which usually is Dolomitic lime
Dolimitic lime means it was extracted from magnesium rich limestone
Calcitic is from stone w/ a higher calcite(calcium) ratio and little to no magnesium
Agricultural limestome(prob also" garden limestone)"is pulverised and screened during processing to make it more consistant for even appication in soil
and doesn't contain any hydrated lime if it is agricultural so it will break down over time as opposed to immediate availability of higher amounts found in hydrated lime
I would not advise using "burnt" (hydrated lime) this will easily burn roots if not done exceptionally and margin for error is small if you are asking about it i would't be doing it yet
lime is "burnt" to increase reactivity(hydroxides) but will usually only be used in really high leaching soil like sandy or types of clay and for special need crops

 

[sativalover]

look on label of "garden lime" to see if it has any listing for magnesium
you need to add more agricultural lime because it breaks down slower than hydrated lime will
and sorry almost forgot to tell you what to do instead of what not to do
how do you check your ph(for starters)?
read the garden lime bag for application rates depending on potency and mix then test after watering a couple of times
only use proper ph water and wait till it evens out upon testing
putting plants in soil you know is out of balance will only cause you worse stunting and plant defencies to fix in a crucial time for development
one thing i would recommend when using smaller containers is wattering less but a couple of times giving them a less of a swing in extremmes
to be clear on feeding days if you gave them a cup of nutrient mix solution then spread it out to atleast half twice a day but if you were constantly watching change in ph for exmp[le you could add little by little as the soil needed it to be optimum moisture level ie. drip irrigation, flooding, to name a few whatever you choose the trick to everything is not overwattering
overwattering will lead to other issues as well and microbe damage nutrient lock to name a quick few
lots more gotta run for now but this will get you started

 

[Muddy]

Just to be clear, I only advise the use of hydrated lime when there is a severe pH issue that needs to be corrected fast. As sativalover has pointed out, it's a bit trickier to use and if not done correctly, can burn the plants roots.