Too late to put in bigger container? (No, it was not)

So, you start a thread on the "NEW GROWERS FORUM" and were expecting what? That we knew you were an expert?
We're here trying to help each other and share what we learned.
Do the transplant if you think it will work, share the process and the results. That would be great. Good luck

I didnt find any more fitting sub for this question :/ And i did explain my level of knowledge about this at op clearly enough in my opinion, but maybe i wasnt clear enough about it? I think it is a newbie question after all(at least in my opinion); "at which points the roots do not grow all that much?".

I did the transplanting and the roots seemed to have covered the bottom decently, but not too much. It would had been better to transplant earlier, but it did not look like grown plants roots, so i guess they will continue to grow still.

I decided to make this sort of tower pot instead of just using one 17L pot. The bottom is 5 gallon and bottom one is about 2 gallon. I put some(and some more just in case) mycotrex from biotabs in it. I put a some GHE root plus, a bit of acti-vera and a tiny bit of top max when i watered it. And let it chill in normal room light a bit before it goes back to tent.

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Do it, or do not; but if you do use mycho's on your roots, it will aid in offsetting some shock (never up potted autos) but since I started using Mycho' Ion my photos, I've never lost a day to shock.

Okay thanks for the reply, good to hear that mychos can help that much. I got brave enough to transplant it because of this comment and did put some mycotrex from biotabs in it. Put a bit extra just in case :D To bottom in 2 layers, pushed it to sides a bit and spread some on top before watering.
 
Fingers crossed for you @CannaDaTaBiz l.
For further info, I suggest a little research about root development.

I'm a relative newbie but found doing homework on a number of these peripheral topics (organics, plant functions, light interactions etc) lead to much deeper understanding of these types of trials.
E.g there is a guy kicking about who I'm sure makes Black diamond LEDs (I'd fe king kill to get one of those in UK) I digress, he kicks off his autos in a 4 inch Rockwell cube, air prunes the tap root right from the get go then plants in 2.5g coco. And these things are monsters. Serious monster autos!
Research n patience that n turning up with feed.
Like the tower and I hope it works out.
 
"Honestly i dont believe that a little stuntedness at this point matters in quantity of yield, but it will just take a bit longer for the plant to be ready. I may be wrong about this, but it is my view that autos do not have some watch they look at for their clock for when to die."

Dude, it's an auto. There is no more "adding time". They literally do have a timer on them. It's called ruderalis
 
"Honestly i dont believe that a little stuntedness at this point matters in quantity of yield, but it will just take a bit longer for the plant to be ready. I may be wrong about this, but it is my view that autos do not have some watch they look at for their clock for when to die."

Dude, it's an auto. There is no more "adding time". They literally do have a timer on them. It's called ruderalis

And how do you think this clock works? Is it a mechanical clock, like the plant is wearing a rolex that tells it the time for how long its been alive and how old it is accurately, or is it a biological clock that can be slowed down in some situation?

Lets assume that its a biological clock, that can be slowed down with for example cold. Why does this happen? It happens because the clock is hormonal and cold slows down the biological processes and thus slows down the hormonal activity, at what point the plant starts to produce which hormones etc.

Now if we look at the whole hormonal mechanism of flowering:
"When the plants are triggered to begin flowering they wind down auxin production and start to increase the production of not only gibberellin (responsible for the stretching at the onset of bloom) but also of cytokinin, which has the effect of promoting new shoots and flowering tips."

Then a bit later the plant starts to make ethylene, which will start to promote ripening of the buds.

Now forget your clocks, thats just a metaphor, that itsn even all that accurate when you start to think about it a bit further. There is a chain of hormanal processes that go on from one "step" to another as the plant grows.

When the plant is stunted, my understanding is that it will only slow down that "step" of the process.

HOWEVER if you disturb some wrong step, a step where the buds have already developed, it can fuck up the whole path. Not only is the hormones not evenly on the plant itself, but the buds have certain timeframe during which they should develop, because for one reason, the buds if stunted, will continue to mature, but not grow properly.

Now if you stunt the plants at this point, its obvious that it will lead to less/smaller buds or if you push the flowering longer buds that might be ready inside, but still try to push new pistils(and clear trichomes that should develop) = poor potency and weird cannabinoid balance/crappy high.

Now on the other hand, what if you just disturb some "step" of development that is before there are buds have developed a bit at least?

Here i think it is different, at least if you dont stunt it too much for too long.

The thing with these hormonal stages, what i called steps is that they move from one step to another after the plant has went through certain development phases inside of it.

The thing with stunting is that it slows down the particular stage of development, so the plant wont move from one stage to another if its not developed enough yet. The different parts are at different stages and the plant behaving this way proves that there are stages of developement instead of some clock.

You can test this with autoflowers to prove my point:

Take a plant that is just starting to flower. Now top it. Top it one set of leafs lower than normal. Dont put it under too much light and now wait until it starts flowering again. I have done this a multiple times for one plant. You can stop and put a delay to the whole flowering surprisingly long.

This happens because only parts of the plant are hormonally ready to start to flower at that point and when you cut those parts out, it will wait until other parts are ready, until it starts to flower again. This wont affect how long the budding phase will last, it only prolongs the veg phase.

So yea, there is no clock, just stages of hormonal activity.
 
I just had to replant one of my autos... I had it in a small airpot and it was sucking the water out super quick and its growth slowed and a few deficiencies popped up. I had a much bigger airpot and transplanted it without really disturbing it hopefully.

The root system had bottomed out in the smaller airpot so I hope she takes off. I added some microbial tea to stimulate the roots. I'll let you know how it works out!
 
disturb some "step" of development that is before there are buds have developed
Long piece @CannaDaTaBiz : but agree, I always assumed a countdown (but, daft as it sounds) if you count up, its easier to visualization that you can simply insert days by using topping (removing the bloom trigger) to let the veg growth make merry for almost a month longer adding significant bud producing time.
Saw some youtube guy pushing this for autos and makes perfect sense.

Think he started making a manifold and as you said, extended veg by topping at key points.
E.g. A mainline requires ²or³± toppings: each extending veg by 4-10 days depending on how far you wanna push it. For an auto that could produce in excess of four main colas would be worth looking into for that increased maturity and flower..
 
Fingers crossed for you CannaDaTaBiz
For further info, I suggest a little research about root development.

I'm a relative newbie but found doing homework on a number of these peripheral topics (organics, plant functions, light interactions etc) lead to much deeper understanding of these types of trials.
E.g there is a guy kicking about who I'm sure makes Black diamond LEDs (I'd fe king kill to get one of those in UK) I digress, he kicks off his autos in a 4 inch Rockwell cube, air prunes the tap root right from the get go then plants in 2.5g coco. And these things are monsters. Serious monster autos!
Research n patience that n turning up with feed.
Like the tower and I hope it works out.

Yea i used to grow a bit like 13 years ago some and did quite bit of research/testing, including pruning the tap root. But the plants were highly unstable phenos etc and didnt do any proper comparison and its been quite a while. It maybe helped a bit on bushiness, but cant be sure. I also only had around 300w CFL lights back then, not very good nutes and plants were crammed into small space, so hard to say. But definitely it did not do any harm. But i do remember it(along other stuff i tested) making me think that if roots develop to wider area, the plant will also develop a bit more bushy structure(or structure that supports bushiness), but if the roots go deep and narrow, the plant will get taller and thinner. But i cant be too sure about this and ofc its also highly stain dependant. But it seems like this sort of shape of the roots, might be more beneficial to certain growth styles. Pruning the tap root naturally makes the roots spread wider and not as deep and seems(with too little info maybe?), that this goes hand in hand with the hypothesis about root shape relating to plant structure.

I think true monsters are created with roots that grow wide and deep and i think pruning the tap root would promote that sort of root growth more than not pruning it. But i dont think it would help significantly unless the grow conditions would be ideal and someone might even be able to fuck up the plant trying to do it way wrong.
 
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pruning the tap root

Funnily enough i mentioned a guy on here the other day (he makes Black diamond LEDs in the states, sorry fella, can't remember your name!) He air prunes the tap root from the off, uses a 4 inch rock wool cube and air pruned in the cube before planting in final pots (followed by feeding just cube, not coco for first week, this creates a 4inch cube shaped straw for a primary root structure to suck up food.
Then he applies a top, veg and repeats tops and he is growing 4ft monsters by applying those techniques his original rock wool cube is full of both primary (and sooner than expected) secondary root.
I have a bunch of Creamatics so going to try a compare once my next lot of photos are done.

Worth a look


Sorry folks, a little off topic there.

Btw have thought about pot sharing and possible difference in feed levels, but wouldn't a weed membrane between plants solve that while 'largely' keeping roots apart in event of issues?
 
Funnily enough i mentioned a guy on here the other day (he makes Black diamond LEDs in the states, sorry fella, can't remember your name!) He air prunes the tap root from the off, uses a 4 inch rock wool cube and air pruned in the cube before planting in final pots (followed by feeding just cube, not coco for first week, this creates a 4inch cube shaped straw for a primary root structure to suck up food.
Then he applies a top, veg and repeats tops and he is growing 4ft monsters by applying those techniques his original rock wool cube is full of both primary (and sooner than expected) secondary root.
I have a bunch of Creamatics so going to try a compare once my next lot of photos are done.

Worth a look


Sorry folks, a little off topic there.

Btw have thought about pot sharing and possible difference in feed levels, but wouldn't a weed membrane between plants solve that while 'largely' keeping roots apart in event of issues?

Neil his name is from growpotcheaply he knows his stuff also his grow courses are great for people starting off
 
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