Too late to put in bigger container? (No, it was not)

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*SOLVED*
Edit. Gave it some myco, GHE root plus and acti-vera and it did not mind being transplanted at all. The roots had hit the bottom, but not too badly. Roots in general looked like roots of premature plant, so the roots will definitely keep growing after this point.

So it seems to be safe to transplant at this stage of development. HOWEVER im not sure if myco etc made the transplanting possible and if some strains are more picky about this. But does not seem to be something to be afraid of!

__________________
Hio,

I have this plant in quite small(i think 1.5 gallon) pot and the plant looks like it would like to grow up to be a monster. Its still in very beginning phase of flowering as you can see, i think it made the first preflower like a week ago. But does do the roots grow much after this point anymore? I could put it in a lot bigger container, but would it make much difference anymore, or do the roots still grow a lot for long enough for bigger container to make a difference? Im thinking of moving it to a 17L fabric pot. But i was thinking of putting new plants to those 17L pots, but if you guys think that this would still greatly benefit from bigger container, i could put this in one instead. But i dont want to out this in bigger container if it just means stuned growth for a bit and not get much bigger in the end..

Yay or nay for the bigger pot?

IMG_3762.JPG

IMG_3761.JPG
 
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Hio,

I have this plant in quite small(i think 1.5 gallon) pot and the plant looks like it would like to grow up to be a monster. Its still in very beginning phase of flowering as you can see, i think it made the first preflower like a week ago. But does do the roots grow much after this point anymore? I could put it in a lot bigger container, but would it make much difference anymore, or do the roots still grow a lot for long enough for bigger container to make a difference? Im thinking of moving it to a 17L fabric pot. But i was thinking of putting new plants to those 17L pots, but if you guys think that this would still greatly benefit from bigger container, i could put this in one instead. But i dont want to out this in bigger container if it just means stuned growth for a bit and not get much bigger in the end..

Yay or nay for the bigger pot?

View attachment 1176085
View attachment 1176098
Autoflower? If so the rule is do not transplant. But a more experienced grower may have a different opinion. Happy growing
 
Autoflower? If so the rule is do not transplant. But a more experienced grower may have a different opinion. Happy growing

Yea its an autoflower. But this rule is silly, ofc you can transplant to bigger, but the question is after which point it does no good anymore and is possibly just stunting the growth. Im just not sure if this is already past that point or if it still grow roots for a while.

Anyone who ever grown autos in hydro should be able to answer this question i have
 
Yea its an autoflower. But this rule is silly, ofc you can transplant to bigger, but the question is after which point it does no good anymore and is possibly just stunting the growth. Im just not sure if this is already past that point or if it still grow roots for a while.

Anyone who ever grown autos in hydro should be able to answer this question i have

It is not silly at all. Auto's are little time bombs. Read what @Django_TO said. The "rule" … as in, in general, is to not transplant.
Rule of thumb are always for inexperienced growers.

With Photos, you can make up for any stunting while in veg, for as long as you like. If you stunt your plant 2 weeks, that's 2 weeks you loose
at the end of flower maturation, and hits your yield heavily.

If you come asking questions you don't know the answer too, please be more respectful to those who offer you help. Nothing he said was silly.

It doesnt really matter at what point you transplant with Auto's, they're a ticking time-bomb. If you do it right, the plant won't feel it. If you shock her … man, girls are weird. Some recover 1 days from a trauma, other simply stall forever, others may take 1 week, others 3.

Since you can't contain Auto's to veg to recover, it doesn't matter when you do it at all. The only thing that matters is if they get shocked, and for how long. That is why ZERO Photo growers will generally pot up after the flip

Having said this, it is perfectly possible for experienced growers to pot up with zero downtime with Auto's. It all depends on your level of geekness about the process.

- Know the strain's sensitivity to extreme shock
- Use the exact same substrate
- Water it with quality water, well aerated, pH, soft-water base EC
- Let the plant pot substrate get to the mediu moist, slight to the dry'ish side, very slightly
-Judicially perform the transplant so there is MINIMAL disruption to the roots (this is a science in itself, numerous competing methods)
- Once done, let rest even out the moistness with good transplant water
- Transplant water = pH correct for medium, with no nutes but good hormonal brew including a mix of fulvic acid, humic acid,vitamins A1, B1, B2, B6, B12, C, E, K, along with pantothenic acid, folic acid, and niacin, indolebutyric acid (kelp tea, superthrive, others)
- Back into the grow room with great max/min temp and RH%
- Great light spectrum preferably at 2.5μmol per Watt
- VPD is the green zone.

Then, sure, you're almost guaranteed to be absolutely golden.

Otherwise, if you feel confident just go for it.

It is the only way to know what happens. Gazillions of growers have done nothing of the above I worte, yet had great success. Way too many variables, but the main one is definitely strain. The second is luck, the third is the grower.

Go for it! It is the only way to gain experience for the future when it happens again, because hopefully it will! :thumbsup:

EDIT: Was actually having a think about this. It is possible to slow down Auto's, as I've detailed in my Gas Lantern Routine experiment in my sig. This could work perfectly well to help recover Auto's from shock in case of emergency. I had never thought of that!

Out of sheer spectacular coincidence, I've just popped the exact same strain from the same seedbank. Will definitely run 24/0 (first time ever) and compare results. So cool !!
 
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It is not silly at all. Auto's are little time bombs. Read what @Django_TO said. The "rule" … as in, in general, is to not transplant.
Rule of thumb are always for inexperienced growers.

With Photos, you can make up for any stunting while in veg, for as long as you like. If you stunt your plant 2 weeks, that's 2 weeks you loose
at the end of flower maturation, and hits your yield heavily.

If you come asking questions you don't know the answer too, please be more respectful to those who offer you help. Nothing he said was silly.

It doesnt really matter at what point you transplant with Auto's, they're a ticking time-bomb. If you do it right, the plant won't feel it. If you shock her … man, girls are weird. Some recover 1 days from a trauma, other simply stall forever, others may take 1 week, others 3.

Since you can't contain Auto's to veg to recover, it doesn't matter when you do it at all. The only thing that matters is if they get shocked, and for how long. That is why ZERO Photo growers will generally pot up after the flip

Having said this, it is perfectly possible for experienced growers to pot up with zero downtime with Auto's. It all depends on your level of geekness about the process.

- Know the strain's sensitivity to extreme shock
- Use the exact same substrate
- Water it with quality water, well aerated, pH, soft-water base EC
- Let the plant pot substrate get to the mediu moist, slight to the dry'ish side, very slightly
-Judicially perform the transplant so there is MINIMAL disruption to the roots (this is a science in itself, numerous competing methods)
- Once done, let rest even out the moistness with good transplant water
- Transplant water = pH correct for medium, with no nutes but good hormonal brew including a mix of fulvic acid, humic acid,vitamins A1, B1, B2, B6, B12, C, E, K, along with pantothenic acid, folic acid, and niacin, indolebutyric acid (kelp tea, superthrive, others)
- Back into the grow room with great max/min temp and RH%
- Great light spectrum preferably at 2.5μmol per Watt
- VPD is the green zone.

Then, sure, you're almost guaranteed to be absolutely golden.

Otherwise, if you feel confident just go for it.

It is the only way to know what happens. Gazillions of growers have done nothing of the above I worte, yet had great success. Way too many variables, but the main one is definitely strain. The second is luck, the third is the grower.

Go for it! It is the only way to gain experience for the future when it happens again, because hopefully it will! :thumbsup:

I wasnt being disrespectful for that other guy, neither did i say that his post was silly. I said that this sort of simplistic yes/no rule is silly with this matter, a rule that he suggested to beginner growers. But to be honest(now that you brought it up), i do think its a bit silly to throw some random rules that only apply to the most newbiest of all people, when it is clearly evident from my question itself that i want more advanced/precise info about this situation, not some general rules. I did mention at op that i know that its not a good idea to transplant past a certain point and do know that it is ok to transplant if you do it early enough.

Thanks for trying to help, but i still did not get the answer or new info :(

If plant that size has not grown so big roots yet, that they have hit the bottom + grown much there and if they continue to grow a lot since this point(about week after first preflowers). Then i want to transplant. But if someone who grows in water system where they have observed how roots grow visually, can tell me that NO! roots doesent grow much at all after the plant starts to preflower, then i got my answer.
 
Well, lets agree to disagree you just double down'ed on disrespect.

The "other guy" has a name, he is called @Django_TO

Second, I've just laid out a
protrusively detailed reason and recommendation "guide" on why, when and how to perform a transplant.
You just blew me off saying you got no "answer or new info".

Seems to me you are not really looking for help or voice of experience, it seems you're looking for self-validation through a direct responsibless order.


Follow your instincts. Do it, you clearly want to. So just do it. You clearly seem to know your shit!

Just be sure to catalog your every move to be able to look back on and reflect, and let us know how it went. Open a grow diary showing your rmethods, so we can follow and openly discuss. This is how we collectively grow together, advance our knowledge of Autos, what this forum is all about.

Your "root" argument has zero value in the Auto world. I've grown massive yields with apparently puny rootballs when doing RDWC. They were little, but girthy AF. And equally I've had fuzzy basketball sized root mass that yielded mediocre.

However you take this, your choice. Please contest me on any of my claims at any time. All I care about is to share solid Auto knowledge to those who ask and appreciate my experience, as I myself was once in that position and wouldn't be here were it not for the incredible willingness of others to explain silly basic Auto stuff to me.

Your question is silly to me at his point in time. However, I'm not blowing you off for asking a silly question.

There are no silly questions or answers growing weed. Ever. Only our collective self-betterment
 
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Here is a cool vid showing off a stunted Auto that was almost trashed out, but turned out to become a monster!
It stunted and paused 2 to 3 weeks before recovering to full blast.

Everything in the Auto world is very relative.
Anything can happen. ——>>> Unless you know your genetics inside out <<< ——

It also "suffered" an incredible defoliation butchery …Damn!

Go for it. Listen to your plants. If they are asking you to pot up, then just go for and do it as best you can!!



There are no definite answers, it is a primarily a strain dependent thing, but we're all here to see things through
 
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I wasnt being disrespectful for that other guy, neither did i say that his post was silly. I said that this sort of simplistic yes/no rule is silly with this matter, a rule that he suggested to beginner growers. But to be honest(now that you brought it up), i do think its a bit silly to throw some random rules that only apply to the most newbiest of all people, when it is clearly evident from my question itself that i want more advanced/precise info about this situation, not some general rules. I did mention at op that i know that its not a good idea to transplant past a certain point and do know that it is ok to transplant if you do it early enough.

Thanks for trying to help, but i still did not get the answer or new info :(

If plant that size has not grown so big roots yet, that they have hit the bottom + grown much there and if they continue to grow a lot since this point(about week after first preflowers). Then i want to transplant. But if someone who grows in water system where they have observed how roots grow visually, can tell me that NO! roots doesent grow much at all after the plant starts to preflower, then i got my answer.
So, you start a thread on the "NEW GROWERS FORUM" and were expecting what? That we knew you were an expert?
We're here trying to help each other and share what we learned.
Do the transplant if you think it will work, share the process and the results. That would be great. Good luck
 
Do it, or do not; but if you do use mycho's on your roots, it will aid in offsetting some shock (never up potted autos) but since I started using Mycho' Ion my photos, I've never lost a day to shock.
 
Well, lets agree to disagree you just double down'ed on disrespect.

The "other guy" has a name, he is called Django_TO

Second, I've just laid out a
protrusively detailed reason and recommendation "guide" on why, when and how to perform a transplant.
You just blew me off saying you got no "answer or new info".

Seems to me you are not really looking for help or voice of experience, it seems you're looking for self-validation through a direct responsibless order.


Follow your instincts. Do it, you clearly want to. So just do it. You clearly seem to know your shit!

Just be sure to catalog your every move to be able to look back on and reflect, and let us know how it went. Open a grow diary showing your rmethods, so we can follow and openly discuss. This is how we collectively grow together, advance our knowledge of Autos, what this forum is all about.

Your "root" argument has zero value in the Auto world. I've grown massive yields with apparently puny rootballs when doing RDWC. They were little, but girthy AF. And equally I've had fuzzy basketball sized root mass that yielded mediocre.

However you take this, your choice. Please contest me on any of my claims at any time. All I care about is to share solid Auto knowledge to those who ask and appreciate my experience, as I myself was once in that position and wouldn't be here were it not for the incredible willingness of others to explain silly basic Auto stuff to me.

I noticed you edits on previous post now. I doubt you got the same seeds, unless you went to my personal stash xD This is (Matanuska Tundra x Low Ryder #1) F3 crossed with (Northern Lights x Low Ryder #1) F3 ;) I did not make many seeds and have given very few away over the about 13 years since i made them.

And no i dont claim to be a pro or that i know everything. For example i do not know if roots grow much after plant starts to flower, therefore i do not know if its a good idea to transplant this. Honestly i dont believe that a little stuntedness at this point matters in quantity of yield, but it will just take a bit longer for the plant to be ready. I may be wrong about this, but it is my view that autos do not have some watch they look at for their clock for when to die. Instead they have a biological clock. If you stunt the growth the biological clock slows down in the parts of the plant that are stunted. Therefore the yield wont get smaller, but it will just take more time to finish. Ofc if you cut it early because it havent finished "in time", then the yield will be smaller and poor quality. What do you think of this hypothesis?

Naturally it would be different with plants that already are past a certain point of flowering. Because that would make the buds develop unevenly and fuck up the whole cycle of bud development. But when there is no already developed buds, that development cycle of them wont get fucked, it doesent exist yet, except on very few preflowers on the stem that have no effect on end product, even if they develop a bit early or something.

I just got into this hobby again a bit under a year ago, but i have grown autos before this forum existed or before there were much other commercial autoflowers than low ryder #1, so im not a complete newbie either. And no i wasnt a pro back then either, but i am a nerd who looks into stuff deep that im interested in and i did do quite a few grows, in small ghetto setup tho and a bit outside. I did do one experiment in a very small, like 0,75 gallon container where i pruned the roots and topped the whole plant like crazy many times, but its so long time ago that i dont remember the behavior of the root growth anymore so precisely, that i could differentiate what was veg growth and what was during flowering and how long till the flowering the roots kept growing. Also i have a hunch that topping will make the plant put out more roots also, so it could had caused more than normal root growth also, as i kept topping it even during flowering. But im not sure of this either. Have you noticed something like this with topping and root growth?

And im ofc talking about autos only, i never grown a plant without auto genes in it ;)

________________

And onto your challenge, just for the fun of it ;)

The thing is that i was not disrespecting django, i know i did not thank for his attempt to help. But i truly feel that if he had just read the topic better and given it some though, he would not had felt the urge to reply what he did, as its obvious that its a pointless comment if you think about it. And if he did not possess enough knowledge about the topic himself, but still wanted to reply. Why?

But thats not the point, the point of all this is that you brought all this up and wanted me to explain myself more, as i did, i had to say things that django likely did not like. And because i did not want it to be some attack against him, but just an explanation to you, since you asked for explanation, i did not put a mention to him and just called him the "other guy". I was trying to do it nicely with this also, but besides you asking for me to say things that might hurt django, you also summoned him to hear all of it.

So if you think about it, i was trying to be nice, but you came and forced out the unsaid bad stuff and now are pushing that path to this conversation and topic again. So yea, maybe a hint of some sort of projection from your end perhaps? ;)

Then you did the ultimate funny thing and gave me a reply that had all sorts of pro stuff, but did not answer my question. So yea you came and showed off with your awesome knowledge, but did not give the helpful tip i truly needed and asked for.

"Seems to me you are not really looking for help or voice of experience, it seems you're looking for self-validation through a direct responsibless order. "

It made this seem like you were not trying to truly help, but just came to show that you are a pro. Another prime example of psychological projection ;)

Feel free to challenge me on those claims, but back it up properly and lets not get nasty :) I almost decided to just ignore all that, but gave it a go for lulz :D
 
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