G
gearbear2
Guest
TLO-Hydro, Aquaponic Mimicry, Mostly Organic Hydroponics
In aquaponics something unique happens that many soil growers have... a PH buffer zone. While it is good to maintain proper PH, It can vary some and your plant will not show signs. This happens more so in soil that encourages the growth of beneficial bacteria and fungi.
Also in aquaponics something else unique happens... low PPM, EC but plants explode in growth. In theory the plants can uptake much more nutrients even at super low concentrations maybe due to this natural environment.
This is a write up of how to duplicate this environment and optimize nutrient efficiency on a small scale (any proper aquaponics will be at about 200 gallons is usually the magic number for things to work effectively)
What you need:
Ph Tester
PH Up and Down
Beneficial Bacteria (could allow to occur naturally, but I like to Seed [Faster])
Good Air Pump
Hose
Air Stone
Tote
Large/Deep Net Pots (encourage beneficial bacteria growth)
A low salt Organic Fertilizer (Sea Grow Bloom Recommended)
Ammonia or fish, could use urine if it doesn't gross you out (preferably without bubbling agent)
Hosing for Air Lift or small pump to run dripline
*These systems use air lift pump http://www.windowfarms.com/how-does-a-windowfarm-work/
Build Like you would a Bubbleponic System with added drip-line.
Instructions:
1
Fill with Good Ph'd water (no chlorine)
Put a Splash (1 tsp -1 TBS) of Ammonia or a fish in water
Add Beneficial Bacteria
Let System Run 2 weeks (could be starting seed in rapid rooters or something)
2
add Nutrients at 1/4 strength and/OR feed fish (toss in a couple of Iron Pills if Fish only)
Check and balance PH
Let cycle a couple of Days
3
Check PH, if stable add plants and Fungi if you want and/ have
4
Upkeep System
Feed your fish
Monitor PH, (if you so choose as system naturally gets acidic, add some crushed oyster shell and it will somewhat stabilize ph at 7.4-7.6)
Add a ½ tsp of ammonia every 2 weeks if no fish
add 2 Iron Pills every 2-3 weeks If fish only and no nutrients
Add a splash of premixed nutes (at regular strength in gallon jug) every 2 weeks
Additives:
You can add a splash of Superthrive
A touch of Molasses every once and a while
Notes: Your Plants Should show No signs of Deficiency or PH stress (leaf twisting or curl) from a PH range of 6.5-7.8. You may want to try and keep your ph right at around 7 though.
I will post a pic of finished production within the next month with a test of this model but from a larger scale.
Young plants less than 2 weeks old and in new system may show a little sign of ph stress but no deficiency.
Never fully dump water, Always leave at least 1/4 if a dump must happen.
Don't Clean your Stone in Net Pots
You may choose to add redworms in pots after system has had one grow
How to Store:
Empty Water
Moisten and Put Soil or coco choir as bottom layer
Put Pots on top of layer. Put good lid or seal holes with plastic and tape (don't tape over little holes in the hand grips, that allows it to breath some).
Put up
It should keep worms and all for several months this way. If stored in a general shed or building.
Then restart the system with the same steps. Although the system will be even better now.
*You may also choose to just dump the baskets on top of the moist layer, may want to put something down to separate to easily gather back up your stone/media
In aquaponics something unique happens that many soil growers have... a PH buffer zone. While it is good to maintain proper PH, It can vary some and your plant will not show signs. This happens more so in soil that encourages the growth of beneficial bacteria and fungi.
Also in aquaponics something else unique happens... low PPM, EC but plants explode in growth. In theory the plants can uptake much more nutrients even at super low concentrations maybe due to this natural environment.
This is a write up of how to duplicate this environment and optimize nutrient efficiency on a small scale (any proper aquaponics will be at about 200 gallons is usually the magic number for things to work effectively)
What you need:
Ph Tester
PH Up and Down
Beneficial Bacteria (could allow to occur naturally, but I like to Seed [Faster])
Good Air Pump
Hose
Air Stone
Tote
Large/Deep Net Pots (encourage beneficial bacteria growth)
A low salt Organic Fertilizer (Sea Grow Bloom Recommended)
Ammonia or fish, could use urine if it doesn't gross you out (preferably without bubbling agent)
Hosing for Air Lift or small pump to run dripline
*These systems use air lift pump http://www.windowfarms.com/how-does-a-windowfarm-work/
Build Like you would a Bubbleponic System with added drip-line.
Instructions:
1
Fill with Good Ph'd water (no chlorine)
Put a Splash (1 tsp -1 TBS) of Ammonia or a fish in water
Add Beneficial Bacteria
Let System Run 2 weeks (could be starting seed in rapid rooters or something)
2
add Nutrients at 1/4 strength and/OR feed fish (toss in a couple of Iron Pills if Fish only)
Check and balance PH
Let cycle a couple of Days
3
Check PH, if stable add plants and Fungi if you want and/ have
4
Upkeep System
Feed your fish
Monitor PH, (if you so choose as system naturally gets acidic, add some crushed oyster shell and it will somewhat stabilize ph at 7.4-7.6)
Add a ½ tsp of ammonia every 2 weeks if no fish
add 2 Iron Pills every 2-3 weeks If fish only and no nutrients
Add a splash of premixed nutes (at regular strength in gallon jug) every 2 weeks
Additives:
You can add a splash of Superthrive
A touch of Molasses every once and a while
Notes: Your Plants Should show No signs of Deficiency or PH stress (leaf twisting or curl) from a PH range of 6.5-7.8. You may want to try and keep your ph right at around 7 though.
I will post a pic of finished production within the next month with a test of this model but from a larger scale.
Young plants less than 2 weeks old and in new system may show a little sign of ph stress but no deficiency.
Never fully dump water, Always leave at least 1/4 if a dump must happen.
Don't Clean your Stone in Net Pots
You may choose to add redworms in pots after system has had one grow
How to Store:
Empty Water
Moisten and Put Soil or coco choir as bottom layer
Put Pots on top of layer. Put good lid or seal holes with plastic and tape (don't tape over little holes in the hand grips, that allows it to breath some).
Put up
It should keep worms and all for several months this way. If stored in a general shed or building.
Then restart the system with the same steps. Although the system will be even better now.
*You may also choose to just dump the baskets on top of the moist layer, may want to put something down to separate to easily gather back up your stone/media
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