The Definitive Colloidal Silver Tutorial

  • Thread starter Thread starter Epic Genetics
  • Start date Start date
Yoda you will find that the rate of generation builds rapidly after the first silver adds in. The silver makes the water more conductive and then things speed up
(scientist call it logarithmically -what do they know?). So it might take 10 hours to get from 0 to 5ppm and then 1 hour to go up to 20. So watch out for that, it sneaks up and then zoom---too late.

Than too late for what? I'm hoping I don't get home and three days of doing this are down the drain..
Wish I could make it home now to check! Lol! Another hour an half...
Yoda
 
Than too late for what? I'm hoping I don't get home and three days of doing this are down the drain..
Wish I could make it home now to check! Lol! Another hour an half...
Yoda

as the ppm's go up the spead increases as InHumboldt mentioned , due to the water now being more conductive , the downfall is that as it speeds up it makes larger colloids we dont want

this has all been mentioned numerous times , you need to read then read again , have everything fresh in mind , then go for it

if your silver rods/wires are getting covered in gunk quickly it is a sure sign your ppm's have gotten up there pretty high , if they remain clean then ppm's are still low , this means both , small batches and large ones

once you know your generator works and what to watch for you dont even need to check ppm's anymore , you just know

if you do have a ppm meter then check when you get home , but i wouldnt worry about rushing home to check it , ive gone for a nap , or what i thought would be a nap knowing my c.s was nearing done , woke up 6 hours later with both wires covered in gunk , the c.s was still fine , i just dont dump the bottom gunky c.s water into the storage container or spray bottle

ive got faith you will and are doing fine yoda

peace :cool:
 
Than too late for what?
Like Bob said your particle size will get large. So as you start getting the silver concentration to build remember that the rate of generation speeds up, it is not a steady rate, it picks up as you go. And don't stress it, a little 8 sz batch takes just 8 to 10 hours and you can go to bed and get up to fresh CS.
 
I like to save a small amount of Cs and use it to help "seed" the water for a new batch. Not very helpful now but good to know for next time.
 
Hi
Is this plant to young to start spraying? 4days old but its def a fem seed, and will be using CS for this reversal attempt, my goal is to get male sacks that will actually open on their own and spread their love ;) thanks for any input.
Yodabuds
View attachment 192754
 
Hi
Is this plant to young to start spraying? 4days old but its def a fem seed, and will be using CS for this reversal attempt, my goal is to get male sacks that will actually open on their own and spread their love ;) thanks for any input.
Yodabuds
View attachment 192754

way too young , but if you wish to try it i would sugest misting very lightly and not soaking it and the surounding soil

peace :cool:
 
I have read this entire thread and there seems to be some confusion about the quality of CS. This is a partial Cut & Paste from a thread I posted recently on Oz Stoners.



What is Colloidal Silver Colloidal Silver is simply silver ions and microscopic silver particles produced by electrolysis and suspended in distilled water

How is it made? Modern Colloidal Silver is made by the process of electrolysis. Basically, electricity is applied to 2 silver wires that are suspended in pure water. The electrical current causes silver ions and microscopic silver particles to be released into the water where they stay in suspension.

Homemade Quality Is it as good as the commercial stuff? Absolutely! In fact the colloidal silver you make at home with a Constant Current source is probably better than the CS you buy in the shops. Provided you are using good quality silver & distilled water, your home-made CS will almost certainly have a higher ionic PPM, and an equal or higher colloidal PPM. At home you are in control of the process so you know what's happening. Unfortunately some commercially made colloidal silver doesn't get such good care. Commercially bottled colloidal silver is often made using the same process but it is made fast, often at high voltages, and in bulk quantities.

What's wrong with using tap water? Why can't I use tap water? Won't it just make a mixture of colloidal silver and tap water? No, because as the silver ions are released from the electrodes they will immediately combine with salts, minerals, and other impurites in the tap water to form silver nitrates, chlorides, and other compounds.

Design Criteria To get the best results you need 99.9% pure silver wire, easily bought of EBAY. the guage of the wire is not important. As already mentioned you must use Distilled Water. The problem with just using a 9 Volt battery and connecting it to the Silver Wires is the Current will rise as more silver Ions get into the water. The problem with that is, the Silver particle size also increases and it becomes difficult to get enough PPM of silver in the Solution. To get around this problem you need to make the power supply constant current. I have designed an adjustable Temperature compensated constant current circuit and set it to the ideal current 1MA. I use a FLUKE 87 Meter to check
the current. I use my variable 3 to 33 volt power supply from home & connect to my homemade Current limiter





Measuring the parts per million All TDS meters are factory calibrated to provide an estimated PPM for the most common dissolved ion sodium chloride (salt), not colloidal silver. But salt is about twice as conductive as silver ions, so when using a TDS meter to estimate the ionic PPM of COLLOIDAL SILVER the recommended practice is to multiply the reading on the meter by 2 to 2.5 times because it has actually taken at least twice as many silver ions to reach the level of conductivity indicated on the meter. So, for example, if the TDS meter says 6 then your actual ionic silver PPM is probably between 12 to 15 ppm. ALL TDS METERS work as described here! So if anyone tells you you can simply read a colloidal silver strength directly off the dial of a TDS meter they don't know what they are talking about.
The saturation point of dissolved silver in pure water is usually about 20 to 30 ppm. (It varies with water quality and temperature). Above this saturation point the ionic silver combines to form solid particles that are not measurable by the meter. This means that no matter how long you continue to run the generator, the meter will usually not indicate an ionic silver ppm higher than about 20 to 30 ppm. Basically you want at least 20 PPM of CS (10ppm indicated by TDS Meter) preferably 30 PPM of CS.

Storage The solution after manufacture should be stored at Room Temperature and away from direct sunlight.


My Temperature Compensated Variable Constant Current Circuit. The 200 ohm variable Potentiometer sets the Current, set in the middle of the range at 100 ohms is more than good enough to regulate at 1 MA.
100 OHMS is not a preferred resistor value so that's why I have used a Potentiometer. This gets a bit technical but I use my FLUKE 87 multimeter to measure the current and then adjust the pot to get 1Ma
 

Attachments

  • Buzzos Circuit.jpg
    Buzzos Circuit.jpg
    20.8 KB · Views: 270
nice post buzz66

not sure where the confusion you mention is , but good post anyway

peace Cool:
 
In a nut shell I wanted to point out the accurate way to measure the CS and basically point out that anything above 15 ppm as measured on a TDS meter will yield particles that won't be able to absorbed by the Plant.
 
In a nut shell I wanted to point out the accurate way to measure the CS and basically point out that anything above 15 ppm as measured on a TDS meter will yield particles that won't be able to absorbed by the Plant.

you might be right , i always thought it was TDS=total desolved solids , but hey ive been wrong before lol

thanx for the input

peace Cool:
 
Back
Top