Techniques for Preventing Mold

[Nuggz]

Activated Earthworm Casting Tea can be a godsend, and not just for its antifungal properties. AEWCT beneficial microorganisms also produce an enzyme called "chitinese". It softens the chitin or exoskeletons of insects! I'm sure from the worms' point of view, the enzyme is used to soften various fruits and vegetables that they compost, but it sure scares the insects away!


Though I haven't got my MJ grow started yet, I have been foliar feeding AEWCT to my container veggies that are out on my back deck, and no insects so far! The other day, I quietly sat next to the veggies just to watch and see what happened when an insect landed on the leaves. They took just one bite out, and then got the heck away as fast as they could! So far, no insect colonies have formed.


Aside from being an outstanding source of nutrients, AEWCT antifungal and insect repelling enzymes sure has me sold on the stuff! Personally, I'd like to foliar feed every 2 weeks to MJ even spraying deep into the flowering stage, but I am unsure how that would make the bud taste.


But on the other hand, AEWCT foliar sprays certainly shouldn't taste any worse than mold, or the taste of Neem oil sprayed onto your plants to stop a bug infestation.

 

[Vas Deferens]

Yep, from what I understand, if you spray beneficials on the foliage, they help out compete the bad MF'ers for food and space on your plants.

 

[cpinks]

Make a tea from common horsetail or field horsetail to prevent the mold and fungi.
Take 1 kg of fresh common horsetail or field horsetail or 150g dried.
boil up 10 l of water mix and let slowly shimmer 30 min.
Sieve and dilute 1:5 spray the plans.

This is an old Finnish recipe for preventing the mold. It's still being used for strawberry by biodynamic farmers. Field horsetail contains silicates and there for thickens plants cell walls. I got some recipes like this if you are intrested.

I'm new to growing but I want to make sure I am prepared for any problems that may arise from growing outdoors. i would def be interested in any other mold prevention recipes. Thanks for the post.

 

[Jtsmoker]

The first six photos illustrate the 0.5 group (Dec 10th) these matured earlier than the 1.0 group produced some very leafy flora..
Photos 9 -14 are of the 1.0 group which are clearly more abundant in chloroform and calyx formation (Dec 18).
The last one is of a indica dominant purple power x tundra cross which i developed by mistake many years ago. I've stabilized it to 7 generations since then... and will begin to cross with strong Romulan males nxt year

Maturity of the 1.0 was slow in comparison with the 5.0 and control groups but with increased yield and resin production. Terpene/flavornoid production was also significantly higher in the 1.0 group. In general with C3 species such as cannabis sativa, fundamental principals would hypothesize that an increase in chloroform conc. results in higher photosynthetic activity and carbohydrate turn over....

Purple plants sure are beautiful though they look almost poisonous don't they..

If that's poison I can burn it up for u and spare u your life lol nice pics my friend I love the photo bomb what strains

 

[james]

I'm not sure about mold resistant strains, but I can def say that the cheese autoflower and even the kush and cheese autoflower tend to mold each year on me. Though I haven't got any on the heavyweight line yet, and they are huge producers outdoor ( 4 oz plus in 15 gallon bags).

 

[G.Leave]

I'm not sure about mold resistant strains, but I can def say that the cheese autoflower and even the kush and cheese autoflower tend to mold each year on me. Though I haven't got any on the heavyweight line yet, and they are huge producers outdoor ( 4 oz plus in 15 gallon bags).

To further reinforce this the Auto Blue Mammoth is not mold resistant at all either (blue cheese genetics)

 

[oldmanzanita]

Trying to find comfrey seeds. No luck yet, but found more info about it. It is completely immune to all plant diseases and pests. Traditionally used as medication for wounds, bruises, broken bones, joint problems and aches. Warning: when once gets its roots deep in the soil its almost impossible to eradicate. It grows back from the smallest bit of root left in the soil. I know one place where it grows wild. Maybe I could just take a little piece from its root and bury it near to my compost.

Comfrey is prone to powdery mildew. Mine always suffers this in the early fall.

 

[oldmanzanita]

Preventative;Prune plants interior then,
Mix:
1 Us gallon clean water
1 cup whole milk (cow or or goat milk)
1 tbsp sodium bicarbonate ( baking soda)
1 tbsp potassium bicarbonate

2.Place in pump style applicator , mist all plants thoroughly with fine spray, coating stems , leaves, stalk and crown. Do not make plants soaking wet. Wait 24 hours.
3.If no pH burn is present, reapply three times that day. Do not soak plants. Wait 24 hrs.
4.Apply bacillus subtillus heavily, with serenade I use half a quart per gallon, twice that day. Reapply the following day at the recommended strong dose per gallon. Wait 48 hours.
5. Mix 1 fl oz jajoba oil with 1 gallon of water . Mist plants heavily.

I reapply this regiment once a month. If it is high humidity, ie end of the summer/early fall, I will do this weekly.

I prefer training my plants to have multiple smaller kolas instead of large ones. This helps with the shedding of water and isolating any moldy buds from the others. This at least slows its spread.
Please never be afraid to cut out/off the affected area. Some things are worth the sacrifice. Be aggressive. If all else fails..... There is ye old sulfur , it works, But not ideally. My plants have reacted poorly.

 

[oldmanzanita]

PS. Shake the water off your plants, after it rains or in the morning when there is dew.

 

[FishDude]

Preventative;Prune plants interior then,
Mix:
1 Us gallon clean water
1 cup whole milk (cow or or goat milk)
1 tbsp sodium bicarbonate ( baking soda)
1 tbsp potassium bicarbonate

2.Place in pump style applicator , mist all plants thoroughly with fine spray, coating stems , leaves, stalk and crown. Do not make plants soaking wet. Wait 24 hours.
3.If no pH burn is present, reapply three times that day. Do not soak plants. Wait 24 hrs.
4.Apply bacillus subtillus heavily, with serenade I use half a quart per gallon, twice that day. Reapply the following day at the recommended strong dose per gallon. Wait 48 hours.
5. Mix 1 fl oz jajoba oil with 1 gallon of water . Mist plants heavily.

I reapply this regiment once a month. If it is high humidity, ie end of the summer/early fall, I will do this weekly.

I prefer training my plants to have multiple smaller kolas instead of large ones. This helps with the shedding of water and isolating any moldy buds from the others. This at least slows its spread.
Please never be afraid to cut out/off the affected area. Some things are worth the sacrifice. Be aggressive. If all else fails..... There is ye old sulfur , it works, But not ideally. My plants have reacted poorly.

NooB question: do you continue with these sprays throughout flowering until harvest? Or is there some point where you really don't want this stuff on your flowers?