Switching from Biobizz organic to Advanced Nutrients (2weeks blooming)

Joined
Apr 17, 2022
Messages
31
Reputation
0
Reaction score
37
Points
0
So, apparently "less is more" does not apply to Biobizz organic fertilizer.

I ran into Cal Mag deficiency because I did not follow their ml feeding schedule.

I now adhere their schedule and added Advanced nutrients Revive. Slowed the progression so far. Needs a few more days to kick in.

Since my water is around 7, I had the idea to switch to Advanced Nutrients PH perfect line. Already got the set.

My question is:
Is it possible to switch from organic fertilizer to Advanced Nutrients fertilizer in 2week into Bloom?

Should I flush first?
 
Last edited:
@sheria :welcome:Welcome to AFN:welcome: The short answer is yes you can change it is just not that simple. First what media are you growing in and what size pot? Don't flush soil.

Pictures taken in Daylight (5000k) are worth - well 1000 words. Turn the grow. lights off

The trick is to maintain the nutrient balance in your media. If you think you are having Calcium problems you are already out of balance and more often than not with new growers it is a case of too much of something as opposed to too little.

This is what I mean by nutrients in balance:


Tag me in to your answers by putting the at-mark @ in front of my name like I did for you.

:toke:
 
@Mañ'O'Green , In using Biozbizz light mix soil. 11litre pot
I now followed the manufacturers feeding schedule and added AN Revive to it (1ml/l) one time.

Yellowing of leafs has stopped. The little brown splotches continue to appear on already affected fan leafs, but progression has slowed a lot.

PXL_20220604_071424043.jpg
Yellowing not progressing. Only two stems with fan leafs where affected.

PXL_20220604_071515104.jpg
This is how some other fan leafs look like. It progressed, now slowly, on random sets of fan leafs. So far, the splotches have stopped appearing on other sets of fan leafs.
 
Last edited:
@sheria When you want to talk about nutrient application a pinch of this a ml/l of that a quart of this or that is really not of much value. You need to acquire some tools: an EC pen and a PH meter. These tools are used to measure the PPM of your starting water and then the strength of the nutrient solution you are applying to the media; in your case the light-mix.

Your leaf (whole plant pictures are helpful) is showing signs of phosphorous and calcium problems. Because Light-mix is made with Dolomite lime it is unlikely to be a calcium shortage (there is pleanty for a grow or two in the pot to start with) and more likely too much nitrogen. Then adding calcium because the N was locking out the Ca in the pot you got too much Ca and it is locking out the P.

2021-01-23_16-05-01.jpg


Next we need to look at the quality of your tap water. You should be able to get a water quality report over the internet. It really has to be wonky to effect a soil grow but it does happen. What is the PH and PPM of your starting water?

:toke:
 
@sheria When you want to talk about nutrient application a pinch of this a ml/l of that a quart of this or that is really not of much value. You need to acquire some tools: an EC pen and a PH meter. These tools are used to measure the PPM of your starting water and then the strength of the nutrient solution you are applying to the media; in your case the light-mix.

Your leaf (whole plant pictures are helpful) is showing signs of phosphorous and calcium problems. Because Light-mix is made with Dolomite lime it is unlikely to be a calcium shortage (there is pleanty for a grow or two in the pot to start with) and more likely too much nitrogen. Then adding calcium because the N was locking out the Ca in the pot you got too much Ca and it is locking out the P.

View attachment 1468247

Next we need to look at the quality of your tap water. You should be able to get a water quality report over the internet. It really has to be wonky to effect a soil grow but it does happen. What is the PH and PPM of your starting water?

:toke:
My water is 7.0
dH 16,5 out of the tap, that's why I filter it.

Why do you think phosphorus? Because of the pinkish stems? Aside from that (could be genetics tho), I don't see any signs of phospho problems.
 
Last edited:
@Mañ'O'Green
I don't, that's why I asked why you think there's a phosphorus problem. ;)

My pH is 7, BioBizz is supposed to bring the pH down a bit in the soil but yeah.
I'm going to switch nutrients and bring down pH (an Ph perfect line). BioBizz is a bit complicated since EC is of not much use with their products and the organic stuff takes a few days to show effects. It's confusing for me to find the problems with the constant delays. Magnesium is fine now, Calcium not. Could be phosphorus and calcium interaction like you said. I'm going to focus on that.
 
@Mañ'O'Green
Update:
I'm going to measure EC on weekend, when I got my hands on a tester.

These are the latest pics. Calcium, it looks like
 

Attachments

  • PXL_20220607_085152191.jpg
    PXL_20220607_085152191.jpg
    2.2 MB · Views: 20
  • PXL_20220607_085219242.MP.jpg
    PXL_20220607_085219242.MP.jpg
    4.3 MB · Views: 19
@sheria The first thing we want to test is your tap water EC.

Looking at the damage on a leaf in a soil grow is many days past the point that initiated it. As you well know now. It is not often a shortage of some element in the pot but an excess of one or more that causes a problem.

Once you know the EC of your water, mix your fertilizer acording to the instructions from the vendor - the sequence counts. Then measure the EC again. The difference between the two is the strength of the immediately available nutrients, it does not measure organic or live material that will feed the microbes in the soil and make them little factories to feed the plant. Now is when you want to PH your mix; just before feeding. PH to 6.3 for the light mix.
 
Back
Top