Super Soil, TLO, Water Only, Questions About Ratios

[Cbooga]

I've read that autoflowers require roughly 1/4 - 1/2 the amount of nutrients versus photoperiods, what does this mean in regards to potting my super soil for my plants? I know with hydro, that would mean use half as much calmag or bloom whatever jibber jabber bottle ect. Some reason my head is getting fucked up with soil.

Do I do this?: 1/4 - 1/3 of my pot (bottom) as super soil
Then do 2/3-3/4 of my pot as regular organic base soil (used for the initial super soil or water only soil that I am using)

(I don't want to fuck up in any way shape or form, accidentally have hot ass soil)

I know you're supposed to put super soil at the bottom of your pot because its a bit hot and could burn the plants when they're young. Then when their roots are old enough for the nutes, they've now grown long enough to reach the super soil. But what % do you put in the bottom of the pot? Is it a different super soil ratio because its autoflowers? or the same ratio?

Does this make any sense? Sorry I'm stressing about soil...

 

[Eyes on Fire]

if the genetics ae solid and your soil is Photo strength cut it in half with coco and soil. or just soil if you prefer i suppose. but take the half strength soil and use that same amount recommended and then mix THAT with the amount of soil like Dr earths or roots something with some mellow proprietary stuffs pre blended into it as your base potting mix to mix WITH the half strength soil or super soil. I never layer and personally dont believe in it..LOL never have actually so if you layer I wont be able to help much since its a different feeding characteristic imo. have a good'un

 

[Penrey]

Interesting. I somehow missed autos needing less food. I am using a modified version of coots mix with added phos, so it might be a little warm. Time will tell.

 

[Eyes on Fire]

well . . . , that is a little bit of a misnomer sorta kinda. less food isnt exactly correct when talking about a water only organic soil method. it depends on a multitude of factors really. if the soil is full photo strength and the genetics are weak,its almost a done deal then. but of its not an overly HOT or cheapply made soil with say..a ton of guanos and Higher or hotter flowering foods it'll most likely change the buffering capacity of your soil(s).

but if you have a really packed full soil that by many would seem hot ,wont exactly be HOT but sensitive though. so NO added foods or anything short of Molasses ,SNS-209 and some feeds of Mammoth P fungus.that'll really help engage the flower factor(s) of a soil like that.But the better made product will tend to have a superior edge when performing the buffering capacity.it reaches levels faster,safer and dont wobble so in turn keeping the plant.roots and leaves in a very healthy state. Tox issues tend to come when you start tinkering. a balanced system is exactly that. I have right now full strength KIS soil made the way on the back of the pack.AND of course I pout in two or three Bio Tabs and so far nadda. perfect colors and separating distances and spread and size performance. so not bad. Flower mid way will lend more to this specific style of hybrid foods and balances.

 

[Penrey]

Thank you for the info Eyes on Fire.
I am not sure exactly what is in the KIS mix and will check it out. I think it might be similar listening to the podcasts on youtube. I see they just put up a part 3.
So far all I have used is a treatment of Azamax and an act feeding. My teas only have molasses and castings, compost and or humus. I had planned on only water and one or 2 tea applications throughout the grow with a top dress of malted barley. I am at day 15 and they look really happy. I think they just hit the amended soil in the bottom part of the pot.

I hope they can offer the bio tabs here in the US soon. I know there are ways to get it with specific shipping though. I would like to try them out.