Indoor Squid's Second Grow-Duurty Dragon, Diesel Ryder & MI5

[Hugo]

Hey Squiddy, next time you make sun dried tomatoes pack them in a jar and fill it to the lid with olive oil, then run them through a hot water bath like regular canned tomos. My GF made some and they're a treat mid winter!

That is so good! With some tapas!! And good beer )

You can also make sweet of tomatoes. Its really easy to do and goes great with toasts!

 

[The Squid]

Awesome! Thanks guys! If I could get some Kumata tomatoes I could get a purply-blackish ketchup and definitely have Squid's Ink Squirt's Ketchup Brand! :dance2:

Some jar-ing will be going down for sure and cool idea on the sun-dried, Piggy.

Vacuum sealed sun-dried tomatoes are easy for internet orders, too.

 

[The Squid]

Week Four Picture Update

Hey friends!

Sorry this is a little later in the day than I usually update. Stupid weather has been screwing with our internet. Got some cool stuff going on, to me anyway. I'll just go in order of the pics for the updates and what everything is...

Pics 1-3: The early showing MI5 male out of the two that I have. Sorry that one is sideways. This picture is several days before he was chopped. I let him dry out and open the rest of the way up and bang him out into a tupperware tray, scraped all the goods up with a razor and dumped it into the little plastic centrifuge snap lock containers that I ordered off of that thread that's been floating around for a while, some of you may know which one I mean. 'Free pollen and seed storage vials' is the title I think, I ordered mine and they came in two weeks. Very useful for pollen and seeds. What I couldn't scoop into the capsule I rubbed all over a half of a Q tip and placed it in there too, along with a couple grains of rice. Let it dry more, and wrapped that into another bag, taped it, and then into a small airtight container and into freezer. I sprayed down the room and me and all before I came out, I should be good.

Pic 4: The pollen and half a Q tip in the plastic vile I spoke of...My first pollen harvest ever! :dance2:

Pic 5: A pinch or two of male flowers that have been drying from that male. I will smoke it when I get up tomorrow for a potency and taste test.

Pic 6: All the new Durrty Dragon babies. Coming along just fine at about 5 days I think, maybe 4. The one I mentioned before that didn't root and seemed to jump out never made it, it was all shriveled up today so that cup got pulled. That one front left already has a tap root down to the bottom of those 32 oz cups. Nice.

Pics 7-11: My girl Molly! She makes me smile. Long ass pistils at three different spots. Great deep green for the most part. As you can see there is a bit of yellowing. I believe it's a zinc deficiency, but I am not certain and it's not too bad. I keep increasing her feeds and she has had three now I believe. Last one I gave two days ago was Bio Grow, Root, and Bio Weed. As well as some Diamond Black, Superthrive and another dose of Silica Blast. I guess she still wants more. I'll sure give it to her in a couple days. MI5s are awesome. She had a pretty quick vertical spurt from last week but has seemed to slow down some. She is around 7 inches I believe. Might be a short stocky one, she has alternating nodes though and has the whole time, kinda weird right?

Pics 12-14: the Diesel Ryder female. She got a little stunted but is doing alright. Popped a few pistils the other day and seems to be gaining some green back from her recent feeds. I am hoping she will shift gears soon. Any suggestions are fine.

Ph is fine and I have NOT been over-watering for once. haha

The other MI5 male I have is tall as hell, like well over a foot, I haven't measured him. Chock full of pods but none have opened yet. I am expecting them to soon though at four weeks old. He grew into the light again and is now taller than the T5s in my male box, lol. I had to position one sideways so he can continue to get good light. Big tall bastard, haha. The DR male is coming along ok too. Has a few more pods forming and is growing taller everyday. Pics of those later.

I think I covered everything. Thanks for coming by guys and gals.

 

[JM]

The pollen and half a Q tip in the plastic vile I spoke of...My first pollen harvest ever! :dance2:

congrats mate!





check your ph!!!!!

looks like its high!!!!! loots like potassium/ phosporus lockout!

 

[JM]

Phosphorus (P) Mobile Element and Macro Element
Benefit: Phosphorus does a lot of things for the plant. One of the most important parts of Phosphorus is: It aids in root growth and influences the vigour of the plant and is
one of the most important elements in flowering as well helps to germinate seedlings.
Phosphorus is an essential plant nutrient, and since it is needed in large amounts, it is classified as a macronutrient. Phosphorus is a MAJOR important nutrient in the plants reproductive stages. Without this element the plants will have a lot of problems blooming without proper levels of Phosphorus.

When your plants are deficient in phosphorus, this can overall reduce the size of your plants. Not enough causes slow growth and causes the plant to become weak, to little amount of Phosphorus causes slow growths in leaves that may or may not drop off. The edges all around the leaves or half of the leaves can be brownish and work its way inwards a bit causing the part of the leaves to curl up in the air a bit. Fan leaves will show dark greenish/purplish and yellowish tones along with a dullish blue colour to them. Sometimes the stems can be red, along with red petioles that can happen when having a Phosphorus deficiency. This isn’t a sure sure sign of you having one though, but can be a sign. Some strains just show the red petioles and stems from its genes.
So pretty much the overall dark green colour with a purple, red, or blue tint to the fan leaves is a good sign of a Phosphorus deficiency. Having Cold weather (below 50F/10C) can make phosphorous absorption very troublesome for plants.
Many people get a Phosphorus deficiency confused with a fungus problem because the ends of the leaves look like a fungus problem, But the damage occurs at the end of the leaves. side of the leaves and has a glass like feeling to it as if it had a ph problem. Parts affected by a phosphorus deficiency are: Older Leaves, Whole plant, Petioles.

Too much Phosphorus levels affect plant growth by suppressing the uptake of: Iron, potassium and Zinc, potentially causing deficiency symptoms of these nutrients to occur def in plants. A Zinc deficiency is most common under excessive phosphorus conditions,
As well as causing other nutrients to have absorption troubles like zinc and copper. Phosphorus fluctuates when concentrated and combined with calcium

Problems with Phosphorus being locked out by PH troubles
Cold wet soils, acid or very alkaline soils, compacted soil.

Soil

Phosphorus gets locked out of soil growing at ph levels of 4.0-5.5
Phosphorus is absorbed best in soil at a ph level of 6.0-7.5 (wouldn’t recommend having a ph of over 7.0 in soil) Anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a Phosphorus deficiency.

Hydro and Soil less Mediums

Phosphorus gets locked out of Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 6.0-8.5.
Phosphorus is absorbed best in Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 4.0- 5.8. (Wouldn’t recommend having a ph over 6.5 in hydro and soil less mediums.) Best range for hydro and soil less mediums is 5.0 to 6.0. Anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a Phosphorus Deficiency.

Solution to fixing a Phosphorus deficiency
Some deficiency during flowering is normal, but too much shouldn't be tolerated. Any chemical or organic fertilizers that have Phosphorus in them will fix a Phosphorus deficiency. If you have a phosphorus deficiency you should use any N-P-K ratio that is over 5.Again Peters all purpose 20-20-20 is a good mix. Miracle grow Tomato plant food, Miracle grow All purpose plant food (Only mixing at ½ strength when using chemical nutrients, or it will cause nutrient burn!) Other forms of phosphorus supplements are: Bone meal, which is gradual absorption, I suggest making it into a tea for faster use, where bone/blood meal is slow acting, but when made into a tea it works quicker! Fruit eating bat guano, which is fast absorption, Worm castings, which is gradual absorption, Fish meal, which is medium absorption, Soft Rock Phosphate, which is medium absorption, Jamaican or Indonesian Guano, which is fast absorption. Crabshell, which is slow absorption. Tiger Bloom , which is fast absorption.

Here is a list of things to help fix a Phosphrous Deficiency.

Chemical

Advanced nutrients Bloom (0-5-4)
Vita Bloom (0-7-5)
BC Bloom (1.1-4.4-7)
GH Flora Bloom (0-5-4)
GH Maxi Bloom (5-15-14)
GH Floranova Bloom (4-8-7)
Dyna-Gro Bloom (3-12-6)
Fox Farm Tiger Bloom (2-8-4)
Awsome Blossums

Organic

Dr. Hornby's Iguana Juice Bloom (4-3-6)
Advanced Nutrients Mother Earth Bloom (.5-1.5-2)
Fox Farm Big Bloom (.01-.3-.7)
Earth Juice Bloom (0-3-1)
Pure Blend Bloom (2.5-2-5)
Pure Blend Pro Bloom (2.5-2-5)
Buddswell (0-7-0)
Sea Island Jamaican Bat Guano (1-10-0)
Indonesian Bat Guano (0-13-0)
Rainbow Mix Bloom (1-9-2)
Earth Juice Bloom (0-3-1)
BIO BLOOM (2-6-3.5)
AGE OLD BLOOM (5-10-5)
ALASKA MORBLOOM (0-10-10)
METANATURALS ORGANIC BLOOM (1-5-5)

Any of these will cure your phosphorus deficiency. Affected leaves will not show recovery but new growth will appear normal.

Now if you added to much chemical ferts and or organics,( which is hard to burn your plants when using organics) You need to Flush the soil with plain water. You need to use 2 times as much water as the size of the pot, for example: If you have a 5 gallon pot and need to flush it, you need to use 10 gallons of water to rinse out the soil good enough to get rid of excessive nutrients.

Note: Blood Meal, Dried Blood, Guanos, Kelp Meal, Cotton Seed Meal, Peat Moss,
Sulfur and fish meal are all acidic and can bring your ph down, so if you add these please monitor your ph when using those.

Note: Bone Meal, Rock Phosphate, Wood Ashes pretty much all ashes, Shellfish Compost and Crab Meal are all alkaline and can make your ph go up, so if you add any of these please monitor your ph.

Picture 1 is a Phosphorus deficiency during vegetative growth.
Picture 2 is what a phosphorus deficiency looks like in flowering.

(Picture 1 is Mine)

Potassium (K) Mobile Element and Macro Element

Potassium plays a big role as well. Having good amounts of potassium in your plants helps in having sturdy and thick stems, disease-resistance, water respiration, as well aids in photosynthesis. Potassium is also found in the whole plant. It is necessary for all activities having to do with water transportation. Potassium is necessary for all stages of growth, especially important in the development of Buds.

Having to little of Potassium in your plants causes the plants leaves to show retarded growth and show a scorched tip and edges around the leaves. Plants may stretch and your branches can be easily broken or weak. Don’t get this deficiency confused with iron, because it almost acts like iron but to tell the difference in the two is: for potassium the tips of the leaves curl and the edges burn and die. Older leaves may show a red colour and leaves could curl upwards. Dead patches (Necrosis) can happen on the margins of larger fan leaves thus, the leaves will eventually die off and turn brown. The Older leaves will show different patches of colour (mottle) and turn yellow between the veins, following by whole leaves that turn dark yellow and die. The plants overall growth slows down, mostly when they are in vegetative stage. To little amount of potassium also slows the growth of buds during flowering stages. Dark edges will appear around the edges of the leaf when the deficiency is starting to happen. When your Relative humidity is low, you can almost bet your going to soon get a potassium deficiency from your plants perspiration.
Potassium can get poorly absorbed when having too much Calcium or ammonium nitrogen, and maybe cold weather. Having to much sodium (Na) causes potassium to be displaced. SO keep those in mind… Parts affected by a Potassium Deficiency are: older leaves and leaf margins.

When you have too much Potassium in your soil, it can lead to big troubles, like salt damage and acid fixation of the root system, as well as too much potassium can cause a calcium deficiency. Your fan leaves will show like a light to a dark yellow to whitish colour in between the veins. Due to a molecular imbalance, potassium toxicity can cause a reduced uptake and lead to the deficiencies of Mg, and in some cases, Ca. Also leads to the other nutrients to not be absorbed properly leading to lots of other deficiency such as: magnesium, manganese, zinc and iron and can cause problems with calcium as well.

Problems with Potassium being locked out by PH troubles
Soils with excessive Leeching and High ph soils and or water.Soils that are potassium fixated. An excess of kitchen salts (sodium) in the root system/environment.

Soil

Potassium gets locked out of soil growing at ph levels of 4.0-5.5
Potassium is absorbed best in soil at a ph level of 6.0-9.5. (Wouldn’t recommend having a ph of over 7.0 in soil) anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a Potassium deficiency.

Hydro and Soil less Mediums

Potassium gets locked out of Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 4.0-4.5, 6.0-6.5.
Potassium is absorbed best in Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 4.7-5.3, 6.7-8.5. (Wouldn’t recommend having a ph over 6.5 in hydro and soil less mediums.) Best range for hydro and soil less mediums is 5.0 to 6.0. Anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a potassium deficiency.

Solution to fixing a Potassium deficiency
Any Chemical/Organic nutrients that have potassium in them will fix a potassium deficiency. Again Peters All Purpose plant food 20-20-20, will cure the potassium deficiency , Miracle grow Tomato plant food, Miracle grow All purpose plant food.( Only mixing at ½ strength when using chemical nutrients, or it will cause nutrient burn!) Some other supplements of potassium are: Wood ashes, which are fast absorption, Kelp Meal, which is medium absorption, Greensand, which is slow absorption, granite dust, which is slow absorption. Sulfate of Potash, Sulfate of Potash Magnesia, Muriate of Potash, which are medium absorption. FOXFARM GROW BIG HYDROPONIC CONCENTRATE, which is fast absorption. (GB can bring your ph down as well) Earth Juice Meta-K, which is fast acting. (Can bring down your ph as well) Leaves will never recover, but the plant will show recovery after about 4 to 5 days when using a fast acting nutrient.

Note: Wood Ashes, can make your ph go up a bit, so please monitor your ph when using it.
Now if you added to much chemical nutrients and or organics, (which is hard to burn your plants when using organics) you need to flush the soil with plain water. You need to use 2 times as much water as the size of the pot, for example: If you have a 5 gallon pot and need to flush it, you need to use 10 gallons of water to rinse out the soil good enough to get rid of excessive nutrients.

Picture 1 and 2 shows a Potassium deficiency

 

[realcarlos]

"Pics 1-3:I let him dry out and open the rest of the way up and bang him out into a tupperware tray"
In order to collect pollen do you have to let the male dry out? If so what is the process?

 

[JM]

you dont have to but its easier... and the pollen needs to be thoroughly dried before storage.... paper bag works for me.

 

[Hugo]

Hey squid, congrats on your plant love making process!

About that yellowing, it's in the beginning of whatever it is so it's cool. You'll get it fixed.

Good gardening!

 

[The Squid]

Thanks JM and Hugo!

I have only been able to check the runoff once JM. I wanted to make sure I wasn't over watering so I didn't get runoff one time, actually two I think. The feed in was 6.4-6.6. I guess that is a little high, damnit. Surely it's not severe enough for a flush. Can I just wait until next feed in a couple days and have it lower around 6 ph?

Phosphorus locks out zinc and that's why I thought that, makes sense. Thanks for that JM.

Hugo, first, I am new to this. Although very thorough and methodical most of the time I am still gaining my XP points on breeding and all aspects of...
You don't have to dry your plant out to collect no. But so far I have found it the easiest way for me. Mine are at different stages and when I was moving them around I noticed pollen dropping. Not only is that spreading around your room/house possibly pollenating what you don't want pollenated, you're losing goods. So when they grow up pretty good and mature anywhere from 3-5 weeks, depending on strain and growth, they will have plenty of pollen sacs and some(about half give or take) will start opening. I cut then, chopping at the base of the plant. I then lay it over in a tupperware tray and keep it in my Male Box and let it dry under the lights. Everyday I come in and tap it out in the tray. I did that for three days and he was all dried up. I knocked the rest out and then scraped it all up as stated in the update above. There are so many methods but this was fairly easy in procedure. I haven't actually used pollen for confirmation, but I bet it is fine.

Thanks for stopping by guys.

 

[GCase]

JM--Interesting read per PK. BTY--your thoughts on soilless PH. Do you ascribe to the 5.0 to 6.0 PH as stated in the PK summary.