Those babies are beautiful nice structure ,nice frost ,and most of all I like the consistency in the Nympho very nice work you show.. You keep up the good work and I will continue to Fly HIgh!!!
I don't think selfing is involved here. My hypothetical plan is to pop a pack of photoperiod seeds, pollinate most of the females with pollen from a male auto of a complementary strain, then line breed those for a couple generations to re-stabilize the auto trait but end up with something with as many of the traits I like from the photoperiod as I can. In each generation, I would collect pollen from at least one male, hand-pollinate individual lower branches on each female plant that isn't an obvious reject (noting which branch came from which male, and keeping seeds separate when harvested), but keep the rest of the plants unseeded. I'd try the flower from all the pollinated plants (hard work ) and decide which seeds to use in further generations. If there isn't a clear standout or lots of rejects, I'd consider doing that generation over, since that's the main way to increase the population size while sticking to a small plant count.Another not talked about thing with the selfed plants is depending on the parents you could be setting yourself up for the herm because you’re basically copying that genetic Alias which could potentially latch to something hidden. I also believe from what I read you can cancel this out potentially with making a duplicate of the pattern and rewriting it into the plants genetic structure,
Definitely possible.I don't think selfing is involved here. My hypothetical plan is to pop a pack of photoperiod seeds, pollinate most of the females with pollen from a male auto of a complementary strain, then line breed those for a couple generations to re-stabilize the auto trait but end up with something with as many of the traits I like from the photoperiod as I can. In each generation, I would collect pollen from at least one male, hand-pollinate individual lower branches on each female plant that isn't an obvious reject (noting which branch came from which male, and keeping seeds separate when harvested), but keep the rest of the plants unseeded. I'd try the flower from all the pollinated plants (hard work ) and decide which seeds to use in further generations. If there isn't a clear standout or lots of rejects, I'd consider doing that generation over, since that's the main way to increase the population size while sticking to a small plant count.
Yes by f4 it should be 99% auto I personally have bought f4s from breeders which were supposed to be auto but wernt they were semi auto but I also had similar with photos but instead there semi auto meaning switch light to 16hrs on and they started flowering I even increased light on those to 18hrs on after 7days and they continued to flower despite the light changing it just goes to show even when u think u know wat ur doing traits pop up, I honestly think we don't have a good grasp on wat will do wat or alot of breeders would have multiple cuts of supposedly the same genetics there will always be differences in phenos. I actually have pics of a blue widow I grew out 2 clones from which were planted in same soil feed the exact same and put directly next to eachother that looked totally different then the mother not to mention different to eachother and this was a dinafem seed so not a small breeder and certainly 1 that good but again I don't think we have the full story on genetics, and I think it's why u see a difference between even well bread cultivars I want to experiment with some f9 f10 seeds from Ace there 1 of the only 1s who bring them out that far that I've seen large scale. I want to see how similar or different they are in comparison to f4 f5 that I've grownDefinitely possible.
I think it was f4 or f5’s where the auto will take over for ya
Well said and cool plan.Yes by f4 it should be 99% auto I personally have bought f4s from breeders which were supposed to be auto but wernt they were semi auto but I also had similar with photos but instead there semi auto meaning switch light to 16hrs on and they started flowering I even increased light on those to 18hrs on after 7days and they continued to flower despite the light changing it just goes to show even when u think u know wat ur doing traits pop up, I honestly think we don't have a good grasp on wat will do wat or alot of breeders would have multiple cuts of supposedly the same genetics there will always be differences in phenos. I actually have pics of a blue widow I grew out 2 clones from which were planted in same soil feed the exact same and put directly next to eachother that looked totally different then the mother not to mention different to eachother and this was a dinafem seed so not a small breeder and certainly 1 that good but again I don't think we have the full story on genetics, and I think it's why u see a difference between even well bread cultivars I want to experiment with some f9 f10 seeds from Ace there 1 of the only 1s who bring them out that far that I've seen large scale. I want to see how similar or different they are in comparison to f4 f5 that I've grown
Yes by f4 it should be 99% auto
That's mostly true but recessive traits are wat kills u doing that this is why you can still get photo dependent plants from breeders like rocbud mephisto ect I've had it happen personally with mephisto and a good freind with rockbudIf you were to cross a male and female showing the auto trait in the F2 you would have 99% autoflowering in the F3 seed stock.
Personally, I would suggest making a shit load of F2's when creating a new auto from scratch.That way you can always go back to the drawing board and start over if things start heading in the wrong direction or if you decide to head in a new one.
That's mostly true but recessive traits are wat kills u doing that this is why you can still get photo dependent plants from breeders like rocbud mephisto ect I've had it happen personally with mephisto and a good freind with rockbud