Sick plant at 5 weeks old, help!

[CHAINSAWCHUMP]

If you are nervous about adding nutes, just check the ppms of the run off.. If they are still too high, that means there is still a lot of nutrients sitting in the medium.. You can keep using water only until the ppms come down.. If they are in range or a little low, then you can start feeding at about that same ppm level.. So if your run off is 350, you can start feeding with a ppm of about 350ish..

It had only been an hour since I gave her water, so I gave her another half gallon to get some runoff just now. P.h of runoff was 6.8 and 256ppm.
Can you translate? I THINK that means it's safe to feed, as I read 600ppm is a good number for flowering stage autoflowers, and 256 is plenty low. Is it too low? Is there a good primer to read about ppm numbers, or do they all vary greatly with pheno, etc? Do you think I should feed her bloom with a ppm of 256 next water?? I have been giving her a gallon of water every three days, so she will be ready for water again on Thursday morning most likely. Temp maintaining around 77 at 45r.h.

 

[CHAINSAWCHUMP]

Does anyone know what these new numbers mean? What should I aim for with her next watering/feed? 256ppm going in? Any idea how much sensi bloom A and B it would take in a gallon of water at 35ppm to reach that ppm?

 

[Proph]

Does anyone know what these new numbers mean? What should I aim for with her next watering/feed? 256ppm going in? Any idea how much sensi bloom A and B it would take in a gallon of water at 35ppm to reach that ppm?

Ahhhhh... Welcome to growing! These are all things you will need to learn at some point. The common ppm range for autos is between 0-500.. 500 being the max ppm level given once or twice in mid flower. Get into the habit of looking to the plant for answers rather than people.. The plant is what matters and it will tell you if 250-300ppm is too much or if it's ok.. Just watch the plant.. It will show signs.. Both good and bad. No one knows how much of your nutrient line to use to get a certain ppm result. That's part of your job as the grower to figure that out. Play with the dosage and check the ppms as you do. Start at 1/2 or 3/4 of the recommended dose and check that first. It is very important to know and understand your nutrient line, checking ppms will show you exactly how easy it could be to make the mix too strong. 256 is about mid level.. If your plant is about half way through life then 256 should be good for now.. If it's in mid flower, it may need to be a bit higher.. But it's the plant that tells us that.

 

[CHAINSAWCHUMP]

Ahhhhh... Welcome to growing! These are all things you will need to learn at some point. The common ppm range for autos is between 0-500.. 500 being the max ppm level given once or twice in mid flower. Get into the habit of looking to the plant for answers rather than people.. The plant is what matters and it will tell you if 250-300ppm is too much or if it's ok.. Just watch the plant.. It will show signs.. Both good and bad. No one knows how much of your nutrient line to use to get a certain ppm result. That's part of your job as the grower to figure that out. Play with the dosage and check the ppms as you do. Start at 1/2 or 3/4 of the recommended dose and check that first. It is very important to know and understand your nutrient line, checking ppms will show you exactly how easy it could be to make the mix too strong. 256 is about mid level.. If your plant is about half way through life then 256 should be good for now.. If it's in mid flower, it may need to be a bit higher.. But it's the plant that tells us that.

I understand what you are saying, while at the same time having no idea what my plant 'needs'. I'm not sure how I will learn more when I don't understand anything at all right now. I know I still have a ton of curling leaf tips, I know she has grown another 6 inches in height over the last week, I know the budsites seem to slowly be getting bigger, some of the white hairs are turning orange, trichomes seem to be showing up also, more leaves are getting crispier and seem to be dying, and it's been 45 days since she sprouted. I stare at the plant multiple times per day, I see what it's doing, but have no idea if it's good or bad, or what any of it means. For example, if the ppm runoff is 256, and it hasn't been fed anything other than plain water for almost 2 weeks, why are the tips of leaves still curling up? Why are leaves still getting spots on them? Is it dying from lack of food? Is it still overfed somehow even tho it's not been fed? I am watching the plant like a hawk, many times daily, adjusting the exhaust fan, humidifier, measuring the height, pulling leaves that are more than 50% damaged, I SEE what's going on, but don't understand what any of it means. I've always been a very technical/logical minded person, I read instructions and maps, study things intensely, but can't figure out how to tell what is going on with the plant when there is so much conflicting info and lacking scientific equipment that tells me exactly what she has too much or not enough of.

 

[CHAINSAWCHUMP]

Here is a side by side of the plant. I have removed several super crispy leaves every couple days, but other than that, I've just fed her ph'd water, roughly 1gallon every three days, ph 6.5, around 35ppm. it's been a mix of distilled water, and my tap water run through a carbon filter. It's getting worse, right? but at the same time that it's seems to be getting more crispy leaves, and more curling tips up top, it's also grown 6 inches in height, and the budsites are getting bigger. the dec 30th photo was just taken a few minutes ago, it's 45th day from sprouting. I really want to get good at this, i'm not looking for shortcuts anymore, i just wish I understood more of what was going on. I can't tell if it's dying and I should just give up, or if it's getting better. Not sure if I should keep removing the dying leaves, or if i've already removed way too many leaves and should leave it alone.

 

[Proph]

Here is a side by side of the plant. I have removed several super crispy leaves every couple days, but other than that, I've just fed her ph'd water, roughly 1gallon every three days, ph 6.5, around 35ppm. it's been a mix of distilled water, and my tap water run through a carbon filter. It's getting worse, right? but at the same time that it's seems to be getting more crispy leaves, and more curling tips up top, it's also grown 6 inches in height, and the budsites are getting bigger. the dec 30th photo was just taken a few minutes ago, it's 45th day from sprouting. I really want to get good at this, i'm not looking for shortcuts anymore, i just wish I understood more of what was going on. I can't tell if it's dying and I should just give up, or if it's getting better. Not sure if I should keep removing the dying leaves, or if i've already removed way too many leaves and should leave it alone.

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Ugghh.. I feel your pain.. I've been there..

The unfortunate part is that once issues have hit this point on an auto, it's too late.. Damaged leaves dont/cant repair themselves. You can only tell if the issue is getting better or worse by if and how it's spreading.. Once a plant is in flower there is no turning back.. Your goal at this point is to just get it to harvest. Since there are multiple issues there is no way to separate them so that you can easily tell them apart. That wil alll come in handy on your next grow while the leaves are healthy.

I think you may need to pull back and remember/think about the basics.. Overfeeding (excess nutrients) leads to "nutrient lockout". That could be an excess of any single nutrient, that can lock out several others.. Lock out means that the roots can't access the locked out nutrients.. It doesn't mean that the particular nutrient isn't in the soil, it means the roots can't acess/use it to feed the plant because other nutrients are in excess. The leaves are getting worse because if the plant can't use food in the soil (through the roots), it uses the food stored in the leaves. Your plant is growing and budding.. The food and energy that it used to do that came from the leaves.. This will continue until all the leaves are eaten through, or the balance of nutrients is restored. It's a delicate balance and once it's off track, it's not easy to get back on..
If it were a photoperid plant, you could keep it in veg until you had all new healthy green leaves and really learn from your issues.. Autos have zero recovery time. They are on an internal death clock and once they are out of veg (usually around 30 day), it's full steam ahead..

Definitely DO NOT give up! I've grown many butt plants.. That's what motivated me to figure out my issues and really get knee deep into how to grow. If you allow it, this will be the best kind of learning experience. Every plant is different. You won't learn it all in a couple of weeks or a couple of grows. Give it some time, and you will soon develope your OWN how to guide that works for you! Until then, we're here to help. Next grow, tag me in at germ and we'll go through the process together.

 

[pg2052]

Just peaking my head in to say that this has been an awesome thread for me to read as a new grower. Thanks - carry on

 

[Tom Bombadil]

my solution:

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[CHAINSAWCHUMP]

Fed her today. 1gallon of water, 3ml of sensi bloom A and B. Going in was ph6.7 265ppm, runoff was ph 6.5 290ppm.

 

[CHAINSAWCHUMP]

Watered her today, 1.5 gallons of water ph 6.44 and 24ppm. Overflow was 6.93ph, and 540ppm!!! No idea how/why the runoff ppm is so high. Plant looks fine tho, getting frostier and buds stacking.