Supernatural OG... 63 days today...
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They took a licking and have recovered and appear to all be well on the way to a decent harvest!


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I've even managed to sneak in some Sour Blues along the way...
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They all got a lick of chlorosis... But who cares given the emerging data that indicates subsequent healthy harvests, given the proper treatment and corrective action...


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They all got a lick of chlorosis... But who cares given the emerging data that indicates subsequent healthy harvests, given the proper treatment and corrective action...


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And what is the proper treatment and corrective action for chlorosis? I had always assumed that it was some sort of genetic trait. :eek1:
 
And what is the proper treatment and corrective action for chlorosis? I had always assumed that it was some sort of genetic trait. :eek1:

Here is what I learned as I diagnosed and attempted to find the source of my problem...

It's most likely to occur in DWC/Hydroponic applications and the most likely cause would be improper pH... If it does a pH adjustment will resolve the issue...

Almost never occurs in organic and soil grows...

Conventional wisdom is that iron is most always present in soil and water... Adding Greensand ensures its availability over the long run which is something I routinely add to my soil when recycling...

Soooo... This is what was so vexing to me when trying to find a plausible cause... Everything I was noticing flew in the face of conventional wisdom... I wasn't growing DWC and my soil by nature should be iron rich...

Originally, I figured that if it was pH then adjusting it would set things straight. It did but ever so briefly. Then bam, it came back.

After manually adjusting pH levels and allowing the plant to consume any available iron, I decided that somehow my issue most certainly had to be lack of iron itself... But where? That's when I remembered how the home inspector had taken the time to show me a newer toilet in the house that had no iron deposits (water here usually has high iron content). That's when I put two and two together and looked at the new plumbing that was added when the previous owners put in the expensive new kitchen... Under the counter was a greensand filter! Used of course, to strip the water of all available iron! Makes for tasty water and white laundry...

The filtered water then being used caused the plants to then consume every bit of iron from the soil which once gone caused the chloritic symptoms... That died down briefly when I'd adjusted the pH to the exact level necessary to grab whatever iron was left.

The remedy was to....

1) Stop using filtered water and switch to a known good (trusted) source.

2) Transplant all affected to larger containers where possible. With subjects in their final containers, top dress with my usual flower mix and a little extra soluble potash (that contains iron too)

Then resume my garden flow and wait to see the improvement...

I knew I'd solved the problem but had no idea how the cure would play out... Watching it over these past few weeks was sure painful but ultimately super interesting to witness... Scars remained but the Supernatural OG flowers I'd nearly given up for lost recovered and are now large and dense as expected with this strain... I do believe the additional soluble potash saved those... The rest of the affected strains recovered completely after transplanting...

This is one of the many reasons I am glad I've begun to run seedlings in smaller containers and transplant at 18 to 21 days... Also another reason I always make sure there's two inches of space left on top for top dressing at 30 to 35 days... Had I not been doing both of these practices, I'd of been f*cked...

Three plants (worst hit and lab test subjects) were total losses...

I hope this windy answer helps to clarify things...




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Great answer! Not "windy" at all! A lot of people on AFN use RO water. Is the iron filtered out of RO water too?

I have also recently read where many smaller water districts in the USA have turned to slow sand water filtration because it is so effective at filtering out pathogens. I suspect their water would be quite iron deficient as well.

I like it that you find solutions in things that fly in the face of conventional wisdom. That wisdom dictates "Do not transplant autoflowers or you will stunt their growth" yet your grows seem to achieve expected or better growth rates. What's your secret?
 
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Great answer! Not "windy" at all! A lot of people on AFN use RO water. Is the iron filtered out of RO water too?

I have also recently read where many smaller water districts in the USA have turned to slow sand water filtration because it is so effective at filtering out pathogens. I suspect their water would be quite iron deficient as well.

I like it that you find solutions in things that fly in the face of conventional wisdom. That wisdom dictates "Do not transplant autoflowers or you will stunt their growth" yet your grows seem to achieve expected or better growth rates. What's your secret?

It seems that for the most part, autoflower geneticists have bred hardiness into their strains... I struggled for a reason to do transplanting and first did it last year when I was running some mixed sex F1 Triangle Dragons that I'd won... This allowed me to conserve resources until I culled the males... Fortunately for me this first experience went quite well... Then I decided it could work well in my garden when I had resource issues like not enough supersoil recycled and running behind schedule...

I tried a variety of containers and seedling mixes and wound up using Promix BX for soil and Ruth's Tree Farm 2gal (1.5 actual) fabric containers... I boost the Promix with 3 handfuls of worm castings per 3 cu ft of soil... The pots are made of spun plastic (recycled 2 liter bottles) and get used over and over... By the time they're ready to transplant (showing sex) the soil in the container is like a firm puck, loaded with tender young roots that are just starting to kiss the edges of the container... Then I take a 3 gal felt container and fold the edges down so as to allow me to gently place the container less 'puck' and plant into it without disturbing it... I release the puck from the original container by splitting the side seem and 'undress' the 'puck' (root ball)... Once it's nearly naked, I'll place my hand on top with the plant stem between my forefinger and index, flip it upside-down, peel off the rest of the old container and finally re-right the puck/plant in the middle of the 3 gal felt. Fold up the sides of the felt, fill it in with supersoil, leaving space on top for later top dressing and voila! Transplant!

I make sure the supersoil is pretty moist and let the transplant sit for a day before adding any moisture... Then I just start moistening it each day till the whole thing appears to have become one soil mass again (3-4 days)...

This has turned out to be my most successful method of growing with supersoil as it ensures the young plant doesn't get accidentally 'overdosed' by the supersoil until it's ready for it...

Here is a video I made the other day about this particular topic...


I'm doing a couple of transplants today and will try to remember to get some shots of the process... It sounds more complicated than it is actually... Just another part of the flow... I usually start at the first sign of sex and do a couple to few a day till finished...


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So, you're avoiding transplant shock by using split seams in fabric pots! That makes a whole lot of sense. If you ever get to the point that you'd just as soon not have to hassle with staples, you could find somebody to sew the pots for you and ask that Velcro be used on the side seam. The fabric they use for the pots is pond underlayment which comes in several different weights and is basically tougher than nails. It's easy to find pond underlayment on E-bay. As long as a person knows that a basic gallon contains 231 cubic inches, it's not hard to figure out the dimensions you need.

Nice going, Rhyce! :headbang:
 
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