Pruning vs no pruning experiment

Excerpt from Robert Connell Clarke - Marijuana Botany - An Advanced Study_ The Propagation and Breeding of Distinctive Cannabis.pdf

Large leaves serve as photosynthetic factories for the production of sugars and other necessary growth sub stances. They also create shade, but at the same time they are collecting valuable solar energy and producing foods that will be used during the floral development of the plant. Premature removal of leaves may cause stunting, because the potential for photosynthesis is reduced. As these leaves age and lose their ability to carry on photo synthesis they turn chlorotie (yellow) and fall to the ground. In humid areas care is taken to remove the yellow or brown leaves, because they might invite attack by fungus. During chlorosis the plant breaks down substances, such as chlorophylls, and translocates the molecular components to a new growing part of the plant, such as the flowers. Most Cannabis plants begin to lose their larger leaves when they enter the flowering stage, and this trend continues until senescence. It is more efficient for the plant to reuse the energy and various molecular components of existing chlorophyll than to synthesize new chlorophyll at the time of flowering. During flowering this energy is needed to form floral clusters and ripen seeds. Removing large amounts of leaves may interfere with the metabolic balance of the plant. If this metabolic change occurs too late in the season it could interfere with floral development and delay maturation. If any floral inhibitors are removed, the intended effect of accelerating flowering will probably be counteracted by metabolic upset in the plant. Removal of shade leaves does facilitate more light reaching the center of the plant, but if there is not enough food energy produced in the leaves, the small internal floral clusters will probably not grow any larger. Leaf removal may also cause sex reversal resulting from a metabolic change. If leaves must be removed, the petiole is cut so that at least an inch remains attached to the stalk. Weaknesses in the limb axis at the node result if the leaves are pulled off at the abscission layer while they are still green. Care is taken to see that the shriveling petiole does not invite fungus attack. It should be remembered that, regardless of strain or environmental conditions, the plant strives to reproduce, and reproduction is favored by early maturation. This produces a situation where plants are trying to mature and reproduce as fast as possible. Although the purpose of leafing is to speed maturation, disturbing the natural progressive growth of a plant probably interferes with its rapid development.
 
Excerpt from Robert Connell Clarke - Marijuana Botany - An Advanced Study_ The Propagation and Breeding of Distinctive Cannabis.pdf

This is very good information. While I still think limited defoliation makes sense in some cases, this certainly tells me that it should only be used on a very limited basis. When I suggested some defoliation earlier, I was not suggesting that you remove the leaves from branches supporting buds, but if the light is unable to penetrate into the plant, some growth will be limited somewhere. I guess it is a matter of judgment.

I should add that I just watched a harvest video on YouTube. The plants were Northern Lights. The plant that he did not defoliate produced better than the defoliated plant. Here's a link to the results video: (Should start at 6:39.)

I must ask myself "Why defoliate?" when the plant with all its leaves produced nearly 50% more bud weight.
 
This is very good information. While I still think limited defoliation makes sense in some cases, this certainly tells me that it should only be used on a very limited basis. When I suggested some defoliation earlier, I was not suggesting that you remove the leaves from branches supporting buds, but if the light is unable to penetrate into the plant, some growth will be limited somewhere. I guess it is a matter of judgment.

I should add that I just watched a harvest video on YouTube. The plants were Northern Lights. The plant that he did not defoliate produced better than the defoliated plant. Here's a link to the results video: (Should start at 6:39.)

I must ask myself "Why defoliate?" when the plant with all its leaves produced nearly 50% more bud weight.


There can be a benefit to removing leaves because it cause regenerative growth to occur more rapidly. Pruning seems to be more for vegetative growth, look at mother plants and their response to pruning, but I can't find any valid information that suggest it's something to be done during flowering just anecdotes.

I think penetration matters only so much depending on your light an your environment. I had a strain that would kill off branches and leaves that doesn't get enough light below the scrog. I try to only remove skinny branches that are going to stretch and not produce. A room with poor circulation and higher humidity will probably need pruning to avoid micro climates causing mold. But stripping leaves off a plant in a hot dry environment seems counterproductive.

Plants grow what they need leaf wise because the roots take in the nutrients and through osmotic pressure pushes up water and nutrients but the leaves, the stuff we want to remove for 'yield', is helping the roots transport that water all around the plant. When the fan leaves begin dying they transport nutrients to the plant until they are done.

It's botany vs stoner lore. Good video thank you.
 
I defoliate sometimes heavily. Actually the more LST I do the more I defoliate, even cutting most sugar leaves. Practice has shown that the more light and air you provide the more the buds develop.
My current grow is SOG with no LST. I have defoliated 3 times and all big fan leaves are gone. This caused my buds to swell because they were exposed to more light. Next week I will do the last defoliation session removing all the leaves that stem out of buds and only sugar leaves will remain.
Leaves are important and they are the ones that are sucking the nutrients upwards in the plant. Indoors you don't need so many because the light comes from a standard angle and the dangers like leaf eating animals are minimal.
What you need to do is make sure that you maintain leaves above the nodes that will produce buds. They will draw all the nutrients towards their branch (or the main line stem), but buds that are before then on the way will get most of them. Buds themselves cannot do that for most of the time. It is root development that regulates this.
At the latest stages of flowering, roughly the last 2 weeks before flushing, leaves don't play any role any more. If you have a strong root system and the plant is well fed then buds by now are swollen enough to have the capability to draw nutrients upwards. Photosynthesis begins to play a minimal role in feeding and the plant is going to be chopped anyhow. The roots send everything needed, carbs and minerals straight to the buds. Nitrogen seizes to be absorbed and everything goes to the flower/fruit development, a process that with no photosynthesis can last basically for 2 weeks. You can observe this in nature in tomatoes that die out and with no leaves they give everything to ripen their fruit. Actually this is also good for taste.
If you don't intervene your buds will stay small and underdeveloped.
Outdoors is different. Yet there is still room for light defoliation, but concentrated on leaves that block buds' access to light. Outdoors you must keep leaves to exploit the movement of the sun.
 
Interesting information. As far as the defoliating for airflow goes on indoor plants, do most to you guys who do that not have effective central air-conditioning in your house?
 
Interesting information. As far as the defoliating for airflow goes on indoor plants, do most to you guys who do that not have effective central air-conditioning in your house?
No Central air here.
 
Air & Light On Leaf Photosynthesis:

As a leaf ages, its ability to photosynthesize follows almost like a bell curve, with a peak around 20-60 days. Here it can be seen how leaf age is very impacting on its photosynthetic capacity. As the leaf gets older, aging or senescence brings about deactivation of enzymes and degeneration of chlorophyll. This is why older leaves start dying and fall off on the lower end of the plant.

It has been suggested that older leaves may act like sinks when they can no longer continue to efficiently convert light into food. But this is not what happens. In the early stages of leaf development, leaves act like sinks. In just a few days, leaves begin the Sink To Source transition where they start supporting themselves and begin exporting photosynthetic resources, as a source. Its at this point and for the remainder of its life until cessation that it stays as a source. Removing leaves does not provide more photosynthate for flowers, as leaves are providing energy, not requiring it. They are sources. The plant also utilizes the nutrients and energy leftover from the leaf, prior to abscission during senescence. This is what happens during the late stages of flowering when the plant is searching for nutrients.

One could argue that reducing foliage will help prevent leaves from the top, from blocking light and reaching lower into the canopy, however this is only going to end up with the same 'total' photosynthetic yield. All that is changed is where the photons will land. Any light which is not absorbed from higher leaves will pass through to lower leaves. This is called the transmittance effect. The idea that top leaves block lower leaves and waste usable energy, is incorrect for this very reason. As light is captured efficiently. Infact exposing shade leaves could be harmful because of the shade vs sun leaves problem. Shade leaves have a different anatomical structure compared to sun leaves, as such its capacity to process light is limited and is negatively affected through factors such as photoprotection and photoinhibition. It takes time for leaves to adapt to new lighting environments. Removing sun leaves and exposing shade leaves, could slow growth and add time to the overall schedule. This is the reason why plants have problems when being introduced into new lighting environments.

With airflow and transpiration, the process is completely passive. But we can prevent problems such as water vapor barriers from static air, sufficiently with active air movement. By removing leaves, you ultimately limit the plants ability to move water and nutrients through transpiration, as the leaves that are removed contribute to this through stomatal movement. By removing leaves you prevent the plant from breathing so to speak, as such the plant tries to recover and attempts to generate more leaves as a result.

From here
 
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Interesting information. As far as the defoliating for airflow goes on indoor plants, do most to you guys who do that not have effective central air-conditioning in your house?
Effective central air-conditioning has no effect for the majority of people in the forum, because we grow in tents, closets etc. It might have a value for large commercial set-ups, but this is not the case for the majority. It is also debatable how it can help in a large commercial set up without defoliation. Take my word for it as a greenhouse commercial grower of vegetables.
Extra fans, dehumidifiers or even portable AC units also have limitations and cannot deal with excesive foiliage. You enter a loop where temperature must be added to the equation, but even if you add a thermal device of any kind it is not guaranteed by any means that you will also manage to retain a steady temperature with a balanced result.
 
Sounds like more of an issue of not being able to move enough outside air through the tent. Would bigger exhaust fans be the solution? It seems like you’re having to “treat” the funky air that you can’t get out of the tent fast enough. I have a single 130 W QB in the end of a 2 1/2 x 7‘ closet. I will admit that I don’t have to worry about sealing it off because I live alone and the strain that I am growing is not particularly fragrant. As best as I can tell the small fan I have on the floor pointing up does more to cool the light down a fair bit than to prevent any funk from growing. But I am also in Central Florida where I have to have a 5 ton heat pump in a house where a 3 ton would be sufficient in some less hot and humid conditions.
 
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