New Grower ppm ranges for stages of growth?

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hello today i want to feed my girls but I am afraid I am underfeeding them. Advanced nutes. SensiGrow A&B. The directions say 4ml per liter so @ a gallon thats 16ml per gallon. and 8ml a gallon would 1/2 strength. Well i just mixed up 5ml of sensigrow A and 5ml of sensigrow B after I added all the additives and some ph up it gives me a ppm of 636. All my plants are showing sex at this point, there is a few white hairs on everyone except the mazar kush because she is photo period. My question is whats a good ppm for each growing phase of an auto-flower? And also can someone confirm that whatever amount of base nutes used. That you only use half that amount for additives? THANKS
 
When i make a res for DWC i will add the additives 1st ,starting with cal/mg ,silica as its strong stuff & needs to mix well ,then anything else, Then add the base nute (sensi grow a&b) at the end upto the required ppm/ec .

You can tell in hydro if your plants are under/over fed by how the ppm/ph swing as she drinks & the water level drops ..... if ppm drops & ph rises = res to weak .... if ppm rises & ph drops =res to strong

.... If ppm & ph remain relatively stable = res good (sweet spot!)... test regularly to see what see whats ! .

A GENERAL rule as taught by Seymour buds is start around 0.8-1.2ec (400-600ppm)for seedlings but you could go a bit lower?,then work up from there 0.2ec(100ppm) per week.

some nutes/additives you add full strength ,others you work up slowly .... Big bud for example you could add full strength (2ml/l) at start of bloom but carboload you would increase slowly until at full strength near the end of it's use ect.All depends how you want to grow really bud !.If you think the res is weak then up it 100ppm ... if you get tip burn ,add some phed water !

good luck dude ..... if you need more advice from pro's ect you may want to give a good run down on set up ,strain ,system your using ect ,,,,,to help them/us help you !:smokebuds:
 
When i make a res for DWC i will add the additives 1st ,starting with cal/mg ,silica as its strong stuff & needs to mix well ,then anything else, Then add the base nute (sensi grow a&b) at the end upto the required ppm/ec .

You can tell in hydro if your plants are under/over fed by how the ppm/ph swing as she drinks & the water level drops ..... if ppm drops & ph rises = res to weak .... if ppm rises & ph drops =res to strong

.... If ppm & ph remain relatively stable = res good (sweet spot!)... test regularly to see what see whats ! .

A GENERAL rule as taught by Seymour buds is start around 0.8-1.2ec (400-600ppm)for seedlings but you could go a bit lower?,then work up from there 0.2ec(100ppm) per week.

some nutes/additives you add full strength ,others you work up slowly .... Big bud for example you could add full strength (2ml/l) at start of bloom but carboload you would increase slowly until at full strength near the end of it's use ect.All depends how you want to grow really bud !.If you think the res is weak then up it 100ppm ... if you get tip burn ,add some phed water !

good luck dude ..... if you need more advice from pro's ect you may want to give a good run down on set up ,strain ,system your using ect ,,,,,to help them/us help you !:smokebuds:
Well thanks for the speedy reply im growing in promix. The only thing added to the mix was 1tsp per gallon of dolomite lime. Growing under a 600 watt hps cooled hood. inside a grow tent. Running lights dimmed down to 75% for the past few days. Running airpots 2&3 gallons in a tent, 3 afgan kush ryders and 2 purple kush autos and a mazar kush. today is day 20 since the first auto showed its head out the promix. And thanks again
 
Arrrrrr ok ...looked like a hydro Q ! ...you can pretty much disregard most of that lol... nute mixing may help though!...you can. grab an airpump & airate your water for 24hrs before feed/water !.:peace:
 
It's almost impossible to have fast and hard rules on ppm of feeds since the starting ppm of your water factors in as well. Someone using RO is going to get a lower ppm reading than someone using tap or well water that has a starting ppm of 200 or 250. That's why we generally recommend using 1/4, 1/2, etc. Plus there is a lot of difference from stain to strain. An 800 ppm feed may not be enough for some strains but too much for others. Best thing is to watch your plants and learn the signs of over and under feeding, and then adjusting your feeds to the need of that particular strain or plant.

Also, when using Pro Mix, no additional lime is necessary unless you are amend it with castings, manure or guano. Then some additional is needed to compensate for the amendments.
 
It's almost impossible to have fast and hard rules on ppm of feeds since the starting ppm of your water factors in as well. Someone using RO is going to get a lower ppm reading than someone using tap or well water that has a starting ppm of 200 or 250. That's why we generally recommend using 1/4, 1/2, etc. Plus there is a lot of difference from stain to strain. An 800 ppm feed may not be enough for some strains but too much for others. Best thing is to watch your plants and learn the signs of over and under feeding, and then adjusting your feeds to the need of that particular strain or plant.

Also, when using Pro Mix, no additional lime is necessary unless you are amend it with castings, manure or guano. Then some additional is needed to compensate for the amendments.
Well the lime has been added since before the seeds were even sowed. nothing i can do about it now unfortunately. is there something i should be looking out for now sine i did add the lime? okay i guess i was off topic for a second but this is what water im using. found the cheapest water for me is Walgreen. The brand is called "Nice!" Distilled Water. PPMs are always 0 from them. Also this is my first time ever using a ppm meter this go, but my 2nd run. Have used GH 3 part with a Akr last run barely survived she did until I found Autoflower.net. I got some help she lived. Struggled with ph and nute lock perhaps. Any how adding the fact of checking ppms but not knowing how much i can give them is another story. I know AKR can take a good amount of nutes in flower at least GH but i have no clue of what the PPMS would of been. I also read posts on PKA being a light feeder but to what extent? So let me ask does 8ml a gallon of A&B each seem like too much for a auto in veg? Maybe im just over thinking this. Or having a brain-fart and under-thinking it all. 1 more question if I may? Additives 1st, nutes 2nd when mixing in this order? Thanks again. I did end up feeding the sisters the 636ppm solution. Time will tell.
 
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"1 more question if I may? Additives 1st, nutes 2nd when mixing in this order? Thanks again."

Again i thought it was a hydro Q but i was advised/have read ,to add things like cal/mg ,silica or potash (bigbud) ect first & let it mix as its so strong/toxic it can react with other nutes if not properly diluted,but this may not apply so much in soil.

I forgot to mention the obvious background ppm/ec before as well ,my bad!.:smokebuds:
 
"1 more question if I may? Additives 1st, nutes 2nd when mixing in this order? Thanks again."

Again i thought it was a hydro Q but i was advised/have read ,to add things like cal/mg ,silica or potash (bigbud) ect first & let it mix as its so strong/toxic it can react with other nutes if not properly diluted,but this may not apply so much in soil.

I forgot to mention the obvious background ppm/ec before as well ,my bad!.:smokebuds:
Good day to you. And I have the Whole ppm thing sorted out. I know exactly what I need to be doing. I should be okay from here on. :toke:
 
Hi guys - sorry to jump on the thread but its is related, I am new to the DWC way of things and have a question.
example: if my PPM is 1000 and drops by 10 daily with good water intake to the plants as well, theoretically speaking the water would run out with a virtual 000 PPM?
my question really is at what point do I add more nutes? you speak of the sweet spot so as mentioned in theory if the resivoir was to have a tiny amount of water then the PPM and TDS should also be minimal and I then res change with new Ph filtered water and new nutes... correct ?
 
Hi guys - sorry to jump on the thread but its is related, I am new to the DWC way of things and have a question.
example: if my PPM is 1000 and drops by 10 daily with good water intake to the plants as well, theoretically speaking the water would run out with a virtual 000 PPM?
my question really is at what point do I add more nutes? you speak of the sweet spot so as mentioned in theory if the resivoir was to have a tiny amount of water then the PPM and TDS should also be minimal and I then res change with new Ph filtered water and new nutes... correct ?
PH-EC_Chart1.jpg


You also need to check your pH and monitor changes there as ppm and pH are linked to each other.
a 10 ppm drop per day is not really significant, and someone using EC instead of ppm would only see a change of 0.02 per day - it is only a minor % change after all.
If you were to increase, I wouldn't go over 1050 initially to see how that works, but that depends on pH changes (if any).
The above chart is the best guideline you can use for DWC.
 
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