So far haven't had any problems with my HM COM-100 or my HM PH-200
The important thing with TDS & pH meters is proper calibration & storage.
Make sure calibration solution is pertinent to your needs.
If you aren't going to be measuring high ppm - then don't calibrate with a high ppm solution.
Try to use a calibration solution that's the closest to what the ppm you're going to be running.
I know, I paid about $130 for my Hanna, plus another $50 for a Control Wizard Accurate 8 to use in soil. I like that the Hanna Combo also measures ppm. I use rain water and it's ppm is low, usually around 17. I then add 1/2 tsp. of cal/mag to raise the ppm to around 125 to buffer my nute solution. Before I started doing that I could never get the pH of my nute solution low enough and was having problems maintaining the proper pH of my plants. Without a meter that also reads ppm I couldn't make that needed adjustment.
The important thing with TDS & pH meters is proper calibration & storage.
Make sure calibration solution is pertinent to your needs.
If you aren't going to be measuring high ppm - then don't calibrate with a high ppm solution.
Try to use a calibration solution that's the closest to what the ppm you're going to be running.
THATS THE TOUGH PART.
They have 1000 ppm and 342 ppm HM calibration solution. There may be others.
Im going into 12/12
I have been burning some leaves.
The ppm on my TDS-EZ has been unable to go above 800
The ppm for flower should be over a thousand for a few weeks.
Although most of my burn problems have been with young plants, I want to make sure Im doing it right for the ladies when they flower
The 125 ppm I'm referring to is the base that I start from. After I add my nutes it will go up to what ever level I desire, 300, 400, 500, etc. depending on what rate I'm feeding at. Sorry if I confused you.
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