Nutrient burn from vermifire

I ordered both a water one and soil one. Is it worth it to get a ppm meter?

yes it is. you can see how much fertilizer is in your water in parts per million.
I once had a friend that also hat a nutrient burn in this early stadium and we fixed it with flushing 6.5PH 20°C destiled water once and then watering the next time ( when the soil was getting dry ) with 6.5PH water with 1ml/L root juice.
 
.... first a heads up in case you didn't see this, we have a great defc. pic thread here! https://www.autoflower.org/threads/...panded-to-include-other-issues-as-well.43164/
>> Jeff, these are the same Promix only seedlings? Did you do the slurry test I mention before, using your pH meter (for testing liquids)? Again, pH is possibility behind this, but without a reading of any kind, it's only a guess! Something else could be wrong with the mix, that can't be tested for except by a lab,... if most all the seedlings are suffering, and they looked like this before nutes were added (sometimes nutes gone bad can cause problems like this), then the only common link is the Promix,.. symptoms are a mix, some of which are not disticnt enough to call, ... maybe Mg on some, but edge frying could be caused by a few things,... do that slurry test and get a reading,.. if it comes out OK, then something else is fucked with this bag,... toss it, or bring it back,... meantime, about the only other thing to try is a flush,... a major PITA, done as a last resort,... after all this, it's very likely they are stunted, and won't grow much more before bloom starts,...

... TDS/EC meters are handy tools to have, not always needed, but provide vital info when they are! You can check you water's hardness (mineral = CaCO3 content), and get a baseline before you add nutes,.. in soilless mediums, this is a good way to check your inputs.... It good for testing run-off for nute build-up as well, very high ppm r-o is a sign on that starting to accumulate,... this is why watering to10-15% run-off is recommended, especially with coco (even more actually, 15-20% there),...
 
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My pH meter will be here later today. So I will be testing then. And yes they were that way before any nutrient. All but one seem to have a problem. Which just seems odd since it's from the same bail of promix. I just don't want to see these 5 go to waste as seeds are expensive. Even if stunted something is better then wasted money.
.... first a heads up in case you didn't see this, we have a great defc. pic thread here! https://www.autoflower.org/threads/...panded-to-include-other-issues-as-well.43164/
>> Jeff, these are the same Promix only seedlings? Did you do the slurry test I mention before, using your pH meter (for testing liquids)? Again, pH is possibility behind this, but without a reading of any kind, it's only a guess! Something else could be wrong with the mix, that can't be tested for except by a lab,... if most all the seedlings are suffering, and they looked like this before nutes were added (sometimes nutes gone bad can cause problems like this), then the only common link is the Promix,.. symptoms are a mix, some of which are not disticnt enough to call, ... maybe Mg on some, but edge frying could be caused by a few things,... do that slurry test and get a reading,.. if it comes out OK, then something else is fucked with this bag,... toss it, or bring it back,... meantime, about the only other thing to try is a flush,... a major PITA, done as a last resort,... after all this, it's very likely they are stunted, and won't grow much more before bloom starts,...

... TDS/EC meters are handy tools to have, not always needed, but provide vital info when they are! You can check you water's hardness (mineral = CaCO3 content), and get a baseline before you add nutes,.. in soilless mediums, this is a good way to check your inputs.... It good for testing run-off for nute build-up as well, very high ppm r-o is a sign on that starting to accumulate,... this is why watering to10-15% run-off is recommended, especially with coco (even more actually, 15-20% there),...
 
The pH of the ones in the promix are. 6.7, 6.6, 6.6, 6.4 and 7.0, what's your thoughts? What should pH be for seedlings, veg, and flower. I know different stages require different nutrient and pH levels lock out and help with certain nutrients.
 
Morning Jeff,

ph looks good...all around 6.5 should work good for a canna lifetime, also if it's jumping 7.0 ph neutral does not hurt really...just to ask a question? Did you read " Jorge Cervantes" book of indoor growing, if not get you infront of your pc/laptop and order today...the basics of indoor growing incuded ph thing is written there..
 
...pH isn't the issue here, none of these symptoms are caused by a nute element lockout, even at 7.0, though that is too high especially for Promix,... test the promix alone, right from the bag... moisten it up, let is sit for several hours, and test it,... IMO, we're back to a bad batch of it,...
 
So what do you guys think is going on here on this one. It is abnormally large in height in comparison to the others. About a foot. A week ago the yellowing started and progressed. I've also noted some rust spots. Nitrogen? Magnesium? Both? Neither?
 

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