-- 500ppm-
![Yoinks :yoinks: :yoinks:](/data/assets/smilies/yoinks.gif)
Holy poop tea, that's freaking rocks in the pipes there! ...
shiiiiit, and it fit into the same housing??
![Roflcrying :rofl: :rofl:](/data/assets/smilies/rofl.gif)
...many of them are standardized in size because of the common use of that housing across many brands,...
... no, 22ppm is still very very soft water,.. but the readings on a "broken in" membrane should be low single digits ppm,.. mine's a 24gpd unit, sold by an aquarium brand Coralife; it runs 2-4 usually, 4 indicating it's time to back flush the membrane,... buuut, it wouldn't hurt to chat with your manufacturer about this (the manual may have info about normal ppm's),... only when the membrane is loaded, or degraded by chlorine (indicating your carbon filter has been max'ed out for a while), or just plain all-done will the ppm's get up that high,..I think the 12gpd unit, even if it fit, wasn't up to the task for that volume output, or a seal inside leaked,...
So, about RO/DI water and pH,.. all the pH buffering minerals (mainly CaCO3) have been removed, so the without them in there, even tiny inputs can cause wild pH swings... and pH meters have difficulty measuring it, but it's not important anyway, it won't be far off 7.0 anyway (CO2 dissolving in water will acidify it slightly)... Here's where the Ca-Mg comes in! that will add some buffering minerals to it, as well as the extra Ca the coco needs (coco binds Ca strongly, so that's why extra is needed)... many of the nute lines already have self buffering capacity as well, like AN does, and they recommend using RO/DI water, or very soft water at least (not softened water mind you, done by ion exchange softeners.... those put Na+ into the water, which is toxic at low levels to canna').... Consider switching to a brand that has coco-specific formulations (AN, Canna for example), it's simplify things!