Couple things that i would like to address on this grow. If these are true auto genetics there is zero need to change the light schedule, none at all. Auto's will do just that, flower on their own. So my question to you is where were the genetics sourced from. Its been a long time since i have seen proper seed NOT auto when labeled as auto. I can remember in the dark ages when companies were attempting to get into the auto market with F1-F2 seed that did not have the auto trait isolated well. It takes time, unless you are Mossy to get those genetics into success when crossed into a new Photo period plant.
Another thing that you have done is LST those plants quite a bit, from my experience i have seen that this can delay flower on some genetics. Not all of them but some of them respond to that, giving the auto a longer veg stage so to speak. Seems to be the case here, from what i see these plants are autoing like they should unless you have messed with the light schedule too much. If these were photo plants, they would stay in preflower longer or a semi-auto that will get a little more heavy of the pistil side and reside there until they get a cycle kick, if that is the case they will have to stay in 12/12. Moving them back will stress the plant and the chances of hermi's increases.
The reason that i state that is because you can keep a true photo mom at bay (no flower) for years with out her producing any flowers other than pre flowers to confirm the sex of the plant. As soon as you cut her light cycle shell start to bud out. So it seems to me that you have autos given the clustering of the flowers that i am starting to see, the dates that you get from breeders are to be taken lightly, sure there are a lot of them that hit right in the time frame that is claimed but that is a straight through grow. No training and now rigs to produce more bud sites. You have to remember when you start messing with them and training them, sure your giving them a larger chance to produce more, but you are altering the way that they were grown out and given stats for. So there can and most of the time be a difference.
I will say this, they look outstanding and are very healthy. There is no doubt that you are providing an ideal environment you just have to be patient with them, and listen to them and continue giving them what they need to make it to the end. with that said, the bloom nute/fert question. I usually start that once i see the cluster forming. When they start to form up i hit them with flower ferts. Its not to "kick" them in, its to provide the phosphorous to continue into the next life cycle of the plant.
Hope this helps:smoking:
